2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement (8 Viewers)

[linuxgod]

I keep a tube of JB Weld in my toolbag in the trunk. Mine looks fine but if I was on a long trip and noticed pink stuff or it blew while I was driving my plan would be to try to plug it, fill it, and then look for a replacement radiator as soon as possible.

I wouldn't trust a JB Weld repair except as a stopgap, but if you wanted to use it to try and reinforce that area before it cracks it's probably no worse than doing nothing. About the only downside is that if the hairline crack is starting to form you won't be able to see it. I wouldn't worry about reinforcing that spot and having a failure somewhere else. Unlike a Kitchenaid mixer, I don't think that spot is designed to fail.

 

[TeCKis300]

Right, that spot isn't designed as a failsafe or anything. Reinforcing it shouldn't have any consequence to the next vulnerability in the radiator.

JBWeld in various formulations is actually amazing stuff. And it get used in much more critical spots than this. It's actually even a factory approved fix for some SAAB cylinder heads. JBWeld epoxies get used to repair Porsche coolant fittings on their glorious GT1 motors. So it's nothing to sneeze at for the right situations.

The LX has the radiator fully covered up by covers. So one wouldn't notice it leaking until it because a bit more significant.

 

[UCrazyKid]

So, it isn’t pretty but I think it’s gonna hold. When I shopped my 2011 LX570 I was aware of the radiator issue and asked my PPI inspector to make sure they took a look. There are no leaks, but what was not noticed (can’t fault them for it) is a tiny hairline crack in the usual place. Honestly if one did not know what these can grow to, you wouldn’t even notice it.

It is not leaking now but I don’t want to fall victim to a failed radiator as I JUST went through that with the car I got rid of to get the LX (a 2004 Volvo XC70 with 127k mi on the clock).

So I did some research, I found some have had success patching but usually only temporarily. Many go to JB Weld or another form of epoxy or putty with mixed results.

The qualifications were an epoxy adhesive that can withstand prolonged high temperatures (radiators run 212+F) AND adhear to glass filled nylon plastic (the material of the tank). Many epoxies do NOT stick to many plastics or they don’t meet the temp requirement (many maxing out at 150F).

Then I came across the VersaChem Radiator and Tank repair kit. It includes a black epoxy resin, a sheet of fiberglass fabric, sand paper and a brush. I read a lot of online reviews and learned that this epoxy sets up FAST! Much faster than the 5min they claim. Cold temps slow the process and I lucked out as it has been in the upper 20’sF here this week and bought me more time.

So I set out to reinforce the area that fails in this radiator so it does not! Remember I do not have a leak yet so no coolant contamination to worry about. With the radiator cold I removed the cap to release any internal pressure before working. I masked off the area of the hairline crack +1” and sanded it well to give the epoxy something to grab on to. Then I cleaned the area with mineral spirits and let dry. I cut the fiberglass to cover the area. The fiberglass is key as this is what will provide the ridigity of the patch. Then I mixed the epoxy in its pouch and worked it together quickly. It generates a LOT of heat when activated so I wore double layer of latex free gloves when working it. Then working quickly I put down a moderate layer over the area I sanded (both on the smooth area of the tank top AND up and over the top of the rectangular boss in the tank where the part numbers are printed). I then quickly lay in the fiberglass and while holding a corner down I covered it with more epoxy and started to brush and dab at it to saturate it with epoxy and get out any air bubbles and make sure it kept the contours of where the boss protrudes from the tank. I kept working it until the epoxy really started to set, about 2-3 min. I made sure the fabric was covered and added enough in the layer of epoxy on top that you really cannot even see the fiberglass. As it became firm and only tacky I continued to work it flat and into the boss crease with my fingers until it was fully hardened.

I now have a very ugly but stout black patch about 1 1/2” wide by 4 1/2” long across the top center of my radiator. It is hard as rock. I replaced the plastic shrouds over the radiator (it is a fluffy LX after all) and let it sit over night. The destructions claim that it works fine below freezing (32F), I found the activator was getting pretty thick until I mixed the two and it started to generate heat. They also say 20min to full strength (can be done on the side of the road in a pinch).

I feel confident that I have bought myself another 100k mi out of this radiator (at 101k mi now). Either by reinforcing the area so the hairline crack does not open any further OR by sealing in any crack that may still form in the future.

Hopefully I will not need to eat my words in a year or two.

Here is the product, it gets great reviews from those that are able to work it quickly before the epoxy sets and bad reviews that end up with a half finished job and an applicator brush stuck to their mixing cup. Read the directions twice, prepare and move fast. You have been warned.

Versachem 90214 Plastic Tank and Radiator Repair Kit - 30 Grams https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009MZI4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OGGCAbKTNE3B8

Oh, and like an idiot I didn’t think to take a picture until I placed all the covers back on. So next time I check it or the battery etc. I’ll snap a photo.

 

[TeCKis300]

^Excellent! That stuff should be stronger and more leak proof than the substrate itself. Thanks for the legwork to find the right product to use! It's on my to do list.

 

[titan305]

2010 LC w 80k miles. Got the leak in the same spot as everybody else. I called Toyota Care and told them this is my second LC and 7th toyota and my concerns. I was polite and told them everything I have learned from this site. They said they couldn't help me at all sorry..... Not even a service discount......I'm taking it somewhere to get replaced on Monday but I don't want the OEM replacement. Try something else if its available cuz this one is weak.

 

[I6turbo]

UCrazyKid, sounds like you made a great attempt to preempt a leak. I look forward to hearing how it holds up under heat cycling, and if you get a chance, any feedback on whether it gets soft when the radiator is up at maximum temperature. Some reviewers have reported that it gets soft at higher temperature, which I'd think would render it ineffective at reinforcing the area (but who knows if they mixed the correct ratios).

I was considering doing a similar thing using JB PlasticWeld (which I've found to be about as amazing on plastics as JB Weld is on its target substrates), but that product you found may be a better bet. If I'm not too much of a procrastinator I might duplicate what you did there. Thanks for posting.

 

[UCrazyKid]

I’m installing some LED high beams and will have the engine plastics off. I’ll have a look now that I have 50 miles on it since the patch project. I’ll check edges for peel, softness, under heat, etc. I’ll post a pic of the mess too.

 

[UCrazyKid]

OK, here are the pictures. After a several heat cycles of regular operating temp from sub-freezing temps the patch is still unchanged and hard as a rock. I do not think it is going anywhere and certainly covers the spot. I hope it provides the reinforcement I was looking for.

 

[dwai]

I have 120k miles on my 08. Would doing this help prevent any cracks in these weak areas?

 

[UCrazyKid]

I have 120k miles on my 08. Would doing this help prevent any cracks in these weak areas?

That is the hypothesis. I could already see a hairline crack forming on mine so I thought this couldn’t hurt.

 

[dwai]

That is the hypothesis. I could already see a hairline crack forming on mine so I thought this couldn’t hurt.

I don't have any hairline cracks on mine. I might just do this the next time I do an oil change. It would be great if I didn't have to change out the radiator. But the waterpump is still another thing that could go wrong :/

 

[UCrazyKid]

I don't have any hairline cracks on mine. I might just do this the next time I do an oil change. It would be great if I didn't have to change out the radiator. But the waterpump is still another thing that could go wrong :/

Honestly I don't have a problem with a water pump that lasts over 120k miles as most cars with timing belts (instead of a chain) require/suggest the water pump be changed at the same interval (~105k mi). So 120k mi + seems reasonable to me. It likely has to do with the seals that separate the bearings of the impeller from the coolant in the pump. A pre-mature failing starter motor is the one I can't wrap my head around. It would be nice to Toyota do more good will replacements considering the new starter is an entirely new part because they have recognized it's a failure point. I digress. I hope we can knock the radiator off the list with this patch.

 

[DirtNap]

Honestly I don't have a problem with a water pump that lasts over 120k miles as most cars with timing belts (instead of a chain) require/suggest the water pump be changed at the same interval (~105k mi). So 120k mi + seems reasonable to me. It likely has to do with the seals that separate the bearings of the impeller from the coolant in the pump. A pre-mature failing starter motor is the one I can't wrap my head around. It would be nice to Toyota do more good will replacements considering the new starter is an entirely new part because they have recognized it's a failure point. I digress. I hope we can knock the radiator off the list with this patch.

Thanks YKC. Pics help. Looks like you covered the whole raised part # area plus healthy margin on each side. Fiberglas enough to cover it all, or is some just resin?

 

[UCrazyKid]

Thanks YKC. Pics help. Looks like you covered the whole raised part # area plus healthy margin on each side. Fiberglas enough to cover it all, or is some just resin?

The fiberglass is about the size of the red box.

 

[GeorgeN]

Hey guys, I just replaced the radiator, water pump, belt, hoses, tensioner and pulley, thermostat on my 2008 LC. I recently bought the car, it has 168k miles and the radiator and water pump were original.

I didn’t think they had any issues and only wanted to change these as PM. However, it turned out the water pump gasket was leaking a little so I’m glad we (mostly a friend did the work, he knows more about cars) caught this in time.
So for those here who keep some stats, my radiator was still fine after 167k miles.

 

[dwai]

My 2008 USDM LC just hit 120k today. No cracks or leaks yet. Not sure how much more I want to push this radiator. I don't see any radiator replacement jobs on the history records of this car.
I'll be replacing the this radiator, starter, and water pump before my Moab trip this April tho

 

[dwai]

Just called my local Toyota specialist (not the dealer). They mentioned that they get the water pump, starter, and radiator directly from the manufactures (Aisen, Denso, and Koyo).
I looked up the Koyo radiator and the part # is A13080
KOYORAD.COM - The Leader in Aftermarket OE Replacement Radiators

Tried searching for the image online for the top area of the radiator and this is the best one I found
Koyorad OEM Replacement Radiator Toyota Landcruiser 5.7L V8 AT 08-11

Anyone installed the part direct from Koyo? I'm wondering if that part would be less prone to cracks.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Koyo and Koyorad are totally different fwiw. Given your dealing with a radiator it's going to be a Koyorad. They have a good product.

 

[dwai]

Koyo and Koyorad are totally different fwiw. Given your dealing with a radiator it's going to be a Koyorad. They have a good product.

Thanks for that clarification! I’ll give those guys a call and see if I can get the radiator part # they r ordering.

 

[Yeti White]

My radiator blew last week 08 with 120k miles. I ended up replacing with another OEM unit and an Aisen water pump. The original pump looked OK but I figured I might as well add it to my radiator cost. I will wait until my starter fails to replace it but I sure hate having that thought in the back of my head that it could go at any time.