Is it difficult to change the filter?
The "Official" 1HZ/1HD-T/1HD-FT Airbox/Intake Mod Thread (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter ForealBoreal
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Fitted up new custom panel filter airbox using a duramax a/c delco filter.
Large bell mouth entry approximately 6” across face into 4” pipe and a silicone 90 bend 3'' into the turbo
Custom 4” bend out of safari snorkel into bottom feed of airbox.
Large bell mouth entry approximately 6” across face into 4” pipe and a silicone 90 bend 3'' into the turbo
Custom 4” bend out of safari snorkel into bottom feed of airbox.
tor with your air box having a 4 inch intake are you running a different than stock pipe to the turbo and are you using a different turbo than stock with your testing. i’m asking because the stock pipe coming out of the air box is only 3 inches at the box and 2.75 at the stock turbo. i would have thought this was maybe a source of restriction in the system unless your turbo had a larger intake. or is the vacuum created by the stock turbo (boosted of course) enough to need a 4 inch pipe into and the air box? maybe i’m overthinking it. just curious because i do have a safari snorkel and am trying to think of a design that’ll accommodate it when not in use but cap off for when necessary (and obviously needing less air at slow water crossing speeds). i still want to get as much air flow as i can. my turbo is a stock housing machined with a high flow wheel and i’m boosted up to 16 psi. i don’t think it’s breathing well through a temporary cone filter i have in place. thanks for your thoughts
torfab
Supporting Vendor
With our testing, increasing the tube from intake to turbo decreased vacuum. We used two adapter hoses to go from 2.5" at the G-Turbo to 4" at the airbox. Then we can either use two separate 3" inlets at the box if you want to run a snorkel or a single 4" inlet
Tor, is your airbox available for purchase?
torfab
Supporting Vendor
Not yet, I can sell a first article that you can build a mount for, but I haven't fine tuned the mounting bracket yet
Well yes inside the fender where it should connect to the snokel. Did a dyno today and just remove the snorkel shifts almost the whole line by 200 rpm. Still got the same top hp with both runs though.(272) Didnt check with the standard airbox as it was to much work to change.
I like it !! Where is that filter housing coming from ? Is there any Manufacturer sign and/or part no shown on the housing ? thanks mate
Bisonthecruiser
SILVER Star
Bisonthecruiser
SILVER Star
Ya dick.
Bisonthecruiser
SILVER Star
Which model number is this? Would help me a ton
I have a custom 4" stainless snorkel that I haven't fitted since I'm trying to sort out a couple of things such as what's the best way to mount onto the a-pillar, and what to do about the slightly restrictive input to the filter box? My 80 currently has the standard air intake (little plastic box hiding in space above right front wheel going to filter box inlet port) and I don't get have a spare right side outer fender panel that I can work on (I don't feel comfortable chopping a hole on the one that currently on the 80 so want to do the hole cutting off-vehicle).
My snorkel has a welded on mount pad for the a-pillar with three bolt holes so I'm guessing the only logical solution is rivnuts? I've never used them and wouldn't have a clue what to look for tool-wise, etc. I have taken away the trim cover on the pillar and worked out it's not really an area that has internal access and any drill swarf, etc. is only going to be recoverable from where the a-pillar opens out above the relay panel (yay) under the dash.
Also the factory air filter boxes for diesel 80's are NLA from Toyota. Both versions are now discontinued (17700-17030 and 17700-17031).
My snorkel has a welded on mount pad for the a-pillar with three bolt holes so I'm guessing the only logical solution is rivnuts? I've never used them and wouldn't have a clue what to look for tool-wise, etc. I have taken away the trim cover on the pillar and worked out it's not really an area that has internal access and any drill swarf, etc. is only going to be recoverable from where the a-pillar opens out above the relay panel (yay) under the dash.
Also the factory air filter boxes for diesel 80's are NLA from Toyota. Both versions are now discontinued (17700-17030 and 17700-17031).
Custom as in, it's a one off? Or as in, it's an aftermarket specialty product?
Did whoever fabricated it give you a cutting template for the guard?
Rivnuts are dead easy to install without a specialized tool.
I'll see if I can find a pootube video of the method I use.
Drill size is important. I'd use stainless rivnuts, but they are slightly harder to expand. Also use some sikaflex to seal under the rivnut as you install them. Use stainless screws, and a dab of sikaflex to seal the threads.
Did whoever fabricated it give you a cutting template for the guard?
Rivnuts are dead easy to install without a specialized tool.
I'll see if I can find a pootube video of the method I use.
Drill size is important. I'd use stainless rivnuts, but they are slightly harder to expand. Also use some sikaflex to seal under the rivnut as you install them. Use stainless screws, and a dab of sikaflex to seal the threads.
This is more or less what I do.
I use a piece of flat bar with a hole in the end (or the hole in the end of a stainless steel rule, coz its usually handy)
Drill hole,
Tap rivnut into hole so the lip is touching the panel,
Put a washer or two onto the right size bolt, grease the washers to reduce friction at the bolt head, (you don't want grease against the rivnut though)
Hold flat bar over rivnut,
Put the bolt (Not a screw) through your flat bar, into rivnut,
Tighten bolt down to expand rivnut.
I use a battery impact driver to tighten the bolt. Zap it in bit by bit, be careful not to over tighten. The impact seems to help
DO NOT use stainless fasteners to install rivnuts, stainless bolt threads gall up extremely quickly. Use a zinc plated bolt with a full thread
I highly recommend practicing with a few on a scrap of metal similar thickness so you know what it feels like when they expand.
That's because the genuine Toyota round filter is washable and re-usable, not oiled, and the best! Foam filters like K&N's need to be oiled and an oiled filter in a remote dusty situation is bad news.
My 80 is non-turbo with standard filter and does quite fine.
your correct, the Toyota filter element is very good, and exelent in dusty conditions, just a bit restrictive for the massive amount of air flowed with high boosted turbo engines
