Builds Joined the 40 club! 1970 FJ40 Frame off build... (2 Viewers)

kcisland · Feb 21, 2018

Home made tool for torque and preload:

Flip and install carrier (no pics). Then test for contact and backlash:

Drive side:

Coast side:

They seem a little deep in the root but well centered heel to toe, so I may leave them. My only issue is my torque wrench only goes to 75 lbs so I had to guess on the pinion nut and carrier bearings. Even though pre-load was good at about 8lbs I am worried i didn't get a full 140ish on the pinion nut. So it may all come apart and I will start over with a higher torque wrench.

kcisland · Feb 21, 2018

Backlash was .007

Pre-load with carrier 16 lbs.

kcisland · Mar 26, 2018

Things were a little slow as far as wrenching but i finally got plated hardware back from Colorado Plating last weekend so things will pick up.

Also picked picked up my tires - BFG 33x10.5x15 KM2's - as motivation to get the axles done!

kcisland · Mar 26, 2018

Cleaned up the rear differential flanges and installed new studs from /beno.

kcisland · Mar 26, 2018

Good thing I'm inside:

New bearings and seals from Kurt - Cruiser Outfitters. The old pinion bearing housing makes a great tool for getting the new bearing and seals in.

kcisland · Mar 26, 2018

Greased the spring to help hold the spring in place and used a thin dab of RTV because the axle housing was a little scored even after light sanding.

kcisland · Mar 26, 2018

So when installing my brake backer plates and cylinders I noticed how much pitch there was to the axle and differential. I hope this is normal and will flatten out with weight on the springs. I didn't think it was normal to have to shim with a standard 2 1/2" OME suspension. Hopefully someone will chime in on this.

Does that upward angle look normal?

kcisland · Mar 26, 2018

A little grease on the seals and in goes the axles:

Long side gear and "C" clip:

kcisland · Mar 26, 2018

Short side:

Then push it over to make room for the spacer:

kcisland · Mar 26, 2018

This process was so fun! I drop the gears and thrust washers so many times trying to get it all into place but finally got the right sequence down to get it all wrapped up.

I put the lower gear into place and rotated the left axle only until the gear was set in the back but not falling out. Then placed the upper gear against the side gears and rotated the axle back drawing both gears into place. The first try resulted in the upper gear being one tooth off but if you carefully rotate and adjust one tooth over it all goes into correct position.

65swb45 · Mar 26, 2018

kcisland said:
So when installing my brake backer plates and cylinders I noticed how much pitch there was to the axle and differential. I hope this is normal and will flatten out with weight on the springs. I didn't think it was normal to have to shim with a standard 2 1/2" OME suspension. Hopefully someone will chime in on this.

View attachment 1663337

View attachment 1663338

Does that upward angle look normal?

WHATEVER configuration you're going to run, hard or soft top, stock tire carrier or rack/bumper/carrier, you should fully load the truck before you start messing with caster shims.

And yes, they do tip up when the springs are not 'loaded'.

kcisland · Mar 26, 2018

I'm worried about the slop in the gears. Left to right the spacer is good and there is very little movement. I don't have a feeler gauge but about 1/32" - 1/16".

But when I rotate the pinion the upper gears move up and down a lot, see the attached video.

But then I checked the FSM and it said to check back lash holding the lower gear and when I did it fell into spec. But still there is so much slop when not holding the lower gear. Am I supposed to use thicker thrust washers top and bottom to tighten them up?

kcisland · Mar 26, 2018

65swb45 said:
WHATEVER configuration you're going to run, hard or soft top, stock tire carrier or rack/bumper/carrier, you should fully load the truck before you start messing with caster shims.

And yes, they do tip up when the springs are not 'loaded'.

Thanks Mark! Whew, good to know.

kcisland · Mar 26, 2018

When I bought the 40 it had no brakes, nothing, it was free wheeling and all the components were in a box. Because I didn't get to take it apart and take pictures I have only FSM and internet to go on.

This is what I found when I pulled the wheels off, no drums, cylinders, or pads:

Apparently I have no brake pad spring retainers. I have no hole in the backer plate for a spring to attach to so I assume my year didn't come with any. Seems a little funky in that I can pull them forward but I guess once the drum is on it should hold it all together.

If it is an easy mod to drill a hole and add them that would be cool - I better do a search on MUD for this!

kcisland · Mar 26, 2018

Freshly turned drums:

And I have wheels! So exciting!

Only finger tight right now depending on what I find out about the pad springs but I am psyched to get the front done next. That will be a little more involved.

kcisland · Mar 26, 2018

On to the front:

Cleaned contact points, tapped threads, then red loctite on the knuckle studs.

kcisland · Mar 26, 2018

New axle seals and bearing raceways:

This might account for the slop in the old knuckles and the funky wear on the inside of the birf housing.

Felt, rubber and metal shim

Preload on the centering tool:

kcisland · Mar 26, 2018

I spent a big part of the day Sunday morning working on finding the correct preload and shims to get me there.

I have to remember that these are 60 series knuckles on a 40 axle. 60 series calls for a heavier preload than the 40 at 6.6 - 13.2 lbs and I read some go as high as 15ish for bigger than stock tires. Am I correct in this thinking?

So with the upper arm and lower bearing cap torqued to 71lbs. and greased bearings, I had 12lbs with even shims top and bottom. When all was said and done at the end of the day I had 15lbs with the felt secured on the back and spindle on.

This picture just has the spindle on temporarily for handling, there is no axle, felt or grease other than on the bearings.