Yes apparently that is a big deal around here.
Scored 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series. (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter 2001LC
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- Thread starter
- #23
Yep sure did.
FSM recommends pulling with transmission attached to engine. I split apart at bell housing pulling just engine. I did it this way out of concern I'd not have room to roll back the Unicorn far enough to clear with trany connect to engine. Concern was; my back tires would start on the down hill roll in my driveway, make pushing back in garage very difficult.
Notice I had hood held with rope on pulley (hanger). The idea here was; as I rolled back hanger would roll with me keeping hood at same angle, but easily adjustable if not.
Was a pain getting everything disconnect from transmission while in vehicle. But traded off as other stuff didn't need to be disconnected, like linkage, propeller shafts, supports, etc. as would have if pulled w/trany. Separating at bell housing is also the way two shops I talked with do it.
CDL switch:
My biggest concern will be install. The concern here is lining up the pilot shaft of torque converter with pilot hole in crankshaft. This I've been told is a pain and bolts should not be used to pull engine into bell housing to seat, which can bust ears off bell housing. That it can take two or three man team to get aligned. For this reason I can see where having transmission attach to engine (as FSM directs) for install would make life easy. It will be a challenge.
Pilot shaft of torque converter must match with crank shaft and seat.
Example of transmission I have in the shop, with torque converter in place. You can see pilot shaft in center. A side note: notice dirt at bottom of bell housing. This was from water washing engine, flowing down into valley washing mouse nest attop valley into bellhousing. From engine of a 08 4runner I have.
Water runs out drain holes in back of block below starter mounting point into bell housing and out bell housing weep hole. You see the valley in some of my other threads for starters or A.I pump jobs. I'll post up a picture in this thread if anyone needs.
I've used many different training interfaces platforms over the years, first started working directly with Desk traders in the 70's. The platform up on two of my monitors at the moment, is ThinkorSwim now part of TD Ameritrade. I don't follow what's the latest greatest these days, it's always changing just like the markets.
I hold many licenses in the securities industry, my first in 1987 was a series 7. My specialty and passion was small cap, offering clients insider stock via bridge loans opportunities, PPO and IPOs (public stock). Something I'm very proud of and very rare for my end of the industry: I never had one complaint, my record is spotless.
Oil futures was something I got into to offset risk of oil company holdings. I can only now write about this here, as I resigned after ~30 years lic'd in the industry. Otherwise I'd have to get advanced approvely for every word, even to mention I trade.
PO lost title. No big deal, I just closed once he received the dupe title.
98-02 no NAV is not a ture Unicorn, even with low miles. But I certainly understand how you feel that way.
The Unicorn is very clean underneath, cleaner than my 01 was at only 3 years old. When I clean the Unicorn's undercarriage in the driveway, it barely left any dirt.
But not as clean as 06LC "The Black Knight" @dace voit owns. That is OMG clean..WOW. The Unicorn is second cleanest I've owed or ever seen.
Good points.
I know that's what most like about no NAV (change head unit).
The thing I like the most is that I can full control climate control without activating NAV screen or Auto function.
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Curious to see why this low mileage LC has a blown engine, are you tearing it apart and rebuilding or getting a new engine in? Might have missed it if you've mentioned it somewhere in the thread.
- Thread starter
- #25
Good questions.
I held a spot on OP page to post up later. But will go ahead and talk about now.
Let's talk about inspection of engine first. Will get to what I'm going to do with engine later.
Short answer head gas blew. In post #2 at the bottom you'll find a video titled "Starting, with a blown head gasket" In it you'll see combustion gases coming from the hose connected to pipe of rear water bypass joint. You probable recognized that hose is where the tee going To Heater cores connects. "Heater Tee's"
This is what the Tee's looked like on first inspection. It was obvious during inspect the plastic got very hot, looks as if melted. My first thought was heater Tee leaked coolant which lead to overheating. But, only 10 year old plastic tee breaking with relatively low miles leaking that much? Makes me wonder could sometime else caused overheating. "It's the chicken or the egg store". Interestingly my older 01 at~~17 years old Tee's looked better.
I backed flushed the heater cores to get any containment out. Then fill with fresh Toyota SLL coolant and capped off with hoses for now.
Compression tested indicates the head gasket is blown. The engine was cold so not a good test but it is revealing. Oh and spark plugs were made in Japan, indicating they're most like factory installed.
psi Back of engine psi
8) 40 ----------------- 7) 40
6) 10 ----------------- 5) 30
4) 40 ------------------3) 110
2) 84 ----------------- 1) 152
Front of Engine
8) 40 ----------------- 7) 40
6) 10 ----------------- 5) 30
4) 40 ------------------3) 110
2) 84 ----------------- 1) 152
Front of Engine
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- Thread starter
- #26
My thinking was, maybe something else happened, that then resulted in Tee's being damages. I mean, really they aren't that old.
But then I replaced The Black Knights (06LC) w/59K on them. Now I'm thinking either the Toyota SLL pink coolant is harder on plastic Tee's or the plastic is not as good as seen in the older systems that use Toyota LL red. Also the return side on the 07 Unicorn looked very aged also, more than I'd expect or seeing at 10 years.
A second possibilities as to cause:
Possible when Dealer did coolant flush 20k miles and one year earlier they didn't burp properly (air in system). Then PO drove, what was likely HWY miles, on low coolant. It could have been running hot for sometime taken out the heater tees then head gasket or visa versa. "Chicken or the Egg story"
The Black Knight 2006 LC with ~59K. (11 year olds)
The King 2001 w/165K (17 years old)
I also found Radiator upper hose gooseneck cracked presumedly heat of either fluid or from hot combustion gases??? looked very age?
A third possibility as to cause:
Additionally I found debris which included some styrofoam, on front of radiator and a shadow line indicating possible air flow blockage of lower ~25% of radiator cooling fins.
Clues
I've a few more it was running hot for some time.
So I can not say heater tee's was the start of the issue.
But I'm reasonably sure overheating took out the head gaskets.
But then I replaced The Black Knights (06LC) w/59K on them. Now I'm thinking either the Toyota SLL pink coolant is harder on plastic Tee's or the plastic is not as good as seen in the older systems that use Toyota LL red. Also the return side on the 07 Unicorn looked very aged also, more than I'd expect or seeing at 10 years.
A second possibilities as to cause:
Possible when Dealer did coolant flush 20k miles and one year earlier they didn't burp properly (air in system). Then PO drove, what was likely HWY miles, on low coolant. It could have been running hot for sometime taken out the heater tees then head gasket or visa versa. "Chicken or the Egg story"
The Black Knight 2006 LC with ~59K. (11 year olds)
The King 2001 w/165K (17 years old)
I also found Radiator upper hose gooseneck cracked presumedly heat of either fluid or from hot combustion gases??? looked very age?
A third possibility as to cause:
Additionally I found debris which included some styrofoam, on front of radiator and a shadow line indicating possible air flow blockage of lower ~25% of radiator cooling fins.
Clues
I've a few more it was running hot for some time.So I can not say heater tee's was the start of the issue.
But I'm reasonably sure overheating took out the head gaskets.
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- Thread starter
- #27
So what is best course of action with a blown engine.
Here are the option:
Replacement engine. $1,500 to $2,200, non 100 series.
Also worth note is; the 2UZ-fe VVt I've seen run $3k to $4K from the 100 series, and are difficult to find. The lower cost I used would be a 2UZ-fe VVt engine in which I'd need to use my parts like oil pans and wire harness to name a few. This adds labor but is the same long block and adds a lot more to my choices. What I have determine is; I'll not use a USA made engine from between 2005 - early 07.
It is obvious based on cost saving in which way I should go.
What is not as simple a quested, is which going to yield best results?
What your thoughts guys?
Here are the option:
Replacement engine. $1,500 to $2,200, non 100 series.
- Finding good used suitable long block.
- Higher cost estimate would be with OEM .005 oversized pistons & rings.
- Toyota sell only a Short block, heads sold separately.
Also worth note is; the 2UZ-fe VVt I've seen run $3k to $4K from the 100 series, and are difficult to find. The lower cost I used would be a 2UZ-fe VVt engine in which I'd need to use my parts like oil pans and wire harness to name a few. This adds labor but is the same long block and adds a lot more to my choices. What I have determine is; I'll not use a USA made engine from between 2005 - early 07.
It is obvious based on cost saving in which way I should go.
What is not as simple a quested, is which going to yield best results?
What your thoughts guys?
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- Thread starter
- #30
I actually bought and engine w/trany out of 08 4runner w/131K. But my bad, I didn't scope it first.
Found water in intake ports of head and water staining from some that evaporated sometime ago. I suspect water from being outdoors and or HP water or steam cleaning. These VVt with rubber intake gaskets tend to leak. Pulled the heads, and found two cylinders have minor rust pitting. It's rebuildable according to a local machine shop, and could be done with just hone. But would increase bore about .003, yielding .009 to .012" end gap of rings above current.
I'll be using a scope from now on, and for this reason I prefer to buy local. I'll get warranty on next one. But if out of state purchase I'd loose shipping at minimum if issue comes up.
I'll be inspect my engine including some of the crank and rod bearings. Then make final decision based on it's condition. If lower block looks good to me, I'll then take to machine shop and have them inspect also before marking final call.
Found water in intake ports of head and water staining from some that evaporated sometime ago. I suspect water from being outdoors and or HP water or steam cleaning. These VVt with rubber intake gaskets tend to leak. Pulled the heads, and found two cylinders have minor rust pitting. It's rebuildable according to a local machine shop, and could be done with just hone. But would increase bore about .003, yielding .009 to .012" end gap of rings above current.
I'll be using a scope from now on, and for this reason I prefer to buy local. I'll get warranty on next one. But if out of state purchase I'd loose shipping at minimum if issue comes up.
I'll be inspect my engine including some of the crank and rod bearings. Then make final decision based on it's condition. If lower block looks good to me, I'll then take to machine shop and have them inspect also before marking final call.
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The replacement engine is going to be the best option if it a lower mileage unit. Not knowing the history of the engine would be a minus, but these engines are so well made that you can be confident in it's future if a couple of items check out like the heater 'T's' condition, oil and coolant.
I would be concerned about rebuilding and engine that appears to have run hot for extended periods of time. That can lead to other issues like irregular bore, etc. that will null your efforts. I think you probably are considering this already.
As far as the discussion of where the engine is made, I don't believe it's as much of an issue as some might make it out to be. The main issue is piston slap from what I've read on here and nothing else. So far, there's not any concrete evidence of this, just some reports here and there. I'm interested in what comes back on the Tundra/Sequoia list about it(I saw your post there). FWIW, my previous two LC's had it in some way. My 60(2F engine) had it really bad on cold start. It always went away when warm. It was never an issue with running, but the neighbors were always looking around for a clydesdale walking down the street when I'd start the thing up. My 80(1FZ-FE engine) had it, but only slightly and when it was VERY cold out(0* and below). I didn't start to hear it until after 200k.
My point is that, while I understand the trust in parts made in Japan, there are things made there that end up on these trucks that we look at as design flaw. There were things that were on my 80 that were original at 230k that were changed out on 100's at half that life, like the alternator. Toyota still oversees the production of their engines, no matter where they're made. Plus, the 1,000,000 mile engine was made over here anyway, IIRC.
IMHO, I wouldn't lose sleep over a new 2UZ-FE if that were the road I chose. But for a truck like the Unicorn, a replacement makes more sense.
I would be concerned about rebuilding and engine that appears to have run hot for extended periods of time. That can lead to other issues like irregular bore, etc. that will null your efforts. I think you probably are considering this already.
As far as the discussion of where the engine is made, I don't believe it's as much of an issue as some might make it out to be. The main issue is piston slap from what I've read on here and nothing else. So far, there's not any concrete evidence of this, just some reports here and there. I'm interested in what comes back on the Tundra/Sequoia list about it(I saw your post there). FWIW, my previous two LC's had it in some way. My 60(2F engine) had it really bad on cold start. It always went away when warm. It was never an issue with running, but the neighbors were always looking around for a clydesdale walking down the street when I'd start the thing up. My 80(1FZ-FE engine) had it, but only slightly and when it was VERY cold out(0* and below). I didn't start to hear it until after 200k.
My point is that, while I understand the trust in parts made in Japan, there are things made there that end up on these trucks that we look at as design flaw. There were things that were on my 80 that were original at 230k that were changed out on 100's at half that life, like the alternator. Toyota still oversees the production of their engines, no matter where they're made. Plus, the 1,000,000 mile engine was made over here anyway, IIRC.
IMHO, I wouldn't lose sleep over a new 2UZ-FE if that were the road I chose. But for a truck like the Unicorn, a replacement makes more sense.
- Thread starter
- #32
Right now, locally, I'm seeing 2UZ engines between 140K to 160K. I've been dragging my feet a bit hoping for lower miles to come up in area, as I inspect what I have.
150K miles is just barely broken in, so that range should be fine. I'll be looking on Toyota web page using VIN and Car fax to get best history I can. Good suggestion on looking at tees, oil & coolant.
These cast iron block are beast, but I too have some of the same concerns with overheating. As noted if passes my inspections, I'll have bore inspected by machine shop.
I spent a great deal for time looking at the issue of USA made vs Japanese. I've been into many forums & threads. I don't know if this is the thread you saw Japanese 4.7L engine better than USA made?
Post #14 @cwwfj60 brought some info to the table. It confirmed what I heard from two out of three shops in this area. As for piston slap they all have some cold, some more than others. But these shops are telling me they're seeing issue with USA made that they don't with Japanese. Not just piston slap after warm-up, but busted rods. The one that seems to have worked on the most, said: he see this in the 03-06 Tundra and Sequoia. That after the 3UR came out, he's not been see in the 07-09 2UZ (could be less number of 2UZ engine made after). He has no explanation, other than factory must have made some change.
I started my investigation believing it made no difference where engine was assembled. Which meant my pool of available engine was large as it could be. But in the end I came away with a strong belief, in what @Ali FJ80 said to me in the first place "stick with the Japanese made engine, issues with USA made"
I'll consider a late 07-09 USA 2UZ but no earlier, and I'll take a higher mileage Japanese over those. This is not to say all 03-06 USA made 2UZ engine are bad. But there is something going on with some.
150K miles is just barely broken in, so that range should be fine. I'll be looking on Toyota web page using VIN and Car fax to get best history I can. Good suggestion on looking at tees, oil & coolant.
These cast iron block are beast, but I too have some of the same concerns with overheating. As noted if passes my inspections, I'll have bore inspected by machine shop.
I spent a great deal for time looking at the issue of USA made vs Japanese. I've been into many forums & threads. I don't know if this is the thread you saw Japanese 4.7L engine better than USA made?
Post #14 @cwwfj60 brought some info to the table. It confirmed what I heard from two out of three shops in this area. As for piston slap they all have some cold, some more than others. But these shops are telling me they're seeing issue with USA made that they don't with Japanese. Not just piston slap after warm-up, but busted rods. The one that seems to have worked on the most, said: he see this in the 03-06 Tundra and Sequoia. That after the 3UR came out, he's not been see in the 07-09 2UZ (could be less number of 2UZ engine made after). He has no explanation, other than factory must have made some change.
I started my investigation believing it made no difference where engine was assembled. Which meant my pool of available engine was large as it could be. But in the end I came away with a strong belief, in what @Ali FJ80 said to me in the first place "stick with the Japanese made engine, issues with USA made"
I'll consider a late 07-09 USA 2UZ but no earlier, and I'll take a higher mileage Japanese over those. This is not to say all 03-06 USA made 2UZ engine are bad. But there is something going on with some.
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At least add a Toyota 5 speed manual! ;<)
also, you may consider buying a whole vehicle, most times they go for less than the what just the motor will cost you from a breaker and you can part the rest out or start building inventory for future projects.
heres a local 4runner:
JTEBT14R168031925 | 2006 BLACK TOYOTA 4RUNNER SR on Sale in CO - DENVER SOUTH | Lot 24400368
heres a local 4runner:
JTEBT14R168031925 | 2006 BLACK TOYOTA 4RUNNER SR on Sale in CO - DENVER SOUTH | Lot 24400368
- Thread starter
- #37
Has anyone even does these types of conversion. I can't even imagine all the components needing, a truck load for sure!
Good idea. I was looking for the Hood for the Whitelady, ended up buying a 98LX w/300K for the hood/plus. That worked out well for me. Made some coins and got the parts I needed.
Confused I would think a 2007 unicorn holy grail would also be a Lexus with AHC
If you wait around long enough Mr Paul, someone else will make that decision for you upon pre purchase. OR, what's the best return on any option. When looking at more obscure cars with replacement engines, the one with the new LB is more attractive than a high mileage used drop in. Not that this LC is that rarefied, but it is rare in itself.
I'd skip your add on a replacement engine with more miles than the chassis. (if I didn't know you sort of)
New is what I'd pay a 5k premium for.
I'd skip your add on a replacement engine with more miles than the chassis. (if I didn't know you sort of)
New is what I'd pay a 5k premium for.
Yeah, that's the thread I read. I missed the part about the rods being a problem...
