1982 Fj40 New Water Pump not working?? (1 Viewer)

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Gene Wolfe

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Feb 9, 2018
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Littleton, CO
I just installed a new water pump on my FJ40 stock 2F, I put like 2.5 containers of antifreeze into it, I do not see any leaks, but it does not seem to be pumping water. The only hose that seems to get warm as teh engine gets hot is the major hose from the water pump to the T to the radiator. There is lots of pressure that builds behind the cap. No heat inside. Any ideas?

-- Gene.
 
^^x2^^ you have to bleed the air out of the cooling system.

But, what do you mean, "not heat inside"? Do you mean the heater isn't heating or what? The heaters are part of the coolant loop... If they worked previously, it's likely air blocking the flow... Unless your 40 has a PO-Installed heater loop shutoff installed... Some people install a method for eliminating the heater loop, during warm weather, in an attempt at cooling the cab down a bit.

Is the engine (temp gauge) getting hot? That would likely be air in your cooling system.
 
I understand the cooling system. The temp gauge will go to overheat stage if I let it. There is no heat to the interior lines. The top of the thermostat housing does not get hot. If I turn off the FJ40 at overheat stage, it will push coolant out the overflow.

What is the best way to bleed the system if this is my issue?

-- Gene
 
Park with the nose up, turn on heater and run the engine for awhile, shut off engine and let it cool down, remove radiator cap and top off coolant...at least that's the way I do it.
 
Last edited:
Gene Wolfe said:
I understand the cooling system. The temp gauge will go to overheat stage if I let it. There is no heat to the interior lines. The top of the thermostat housing does not get hot. If I turn off the FJ40 at overheat stage, it will push coolant out the overflow.

What is the best way to bleed the system if this is my issue?

-- Gene
Click to expand...

Pretty sure it is the issue. Provide a path for the trapped air to escape. I usually take one end of the upper radiator hose off and then fill the system. Make sure your heater valve is open. I have seen some cases where if left alone for long enough with the rad. cap off the system actually bled itself.
 
Most likely you have an air pocket. I would get the car with the front end higher than the back, so air in the engine will tend to rise to the coolant lines and rad. Start the car with the cap off, heater wide open and let if get up to temp adding water as needed and burping the hoses. Get it up to temp and shut it down. Let it cool top off and put the cap back on. That usually works for me. You dont want to let it get too hot or it will create more air. I dont recall if the FJ40 thermostat has a little weep hole that allows air trapped behind it to come past. if it doesnt you want to run it just enough to get the thermostat to open. HTH
 
The thermostat doesn’t generally have a weep hole.

If you want to pull your thermostat, you can drill a small hole, to allow air to get through and facilitate bleeding the system.

The heater loop, over the valve, by the firewall, is the highest point in the cooling system... some of us have installed a bleeder valve, at the high point.
 
pngunme said:
The thermostat doesn’t generally have a weep hole.

If you want to pull your thermostat, you can drill a small hole, to allow air to get through and facilitate bleeding the system.

The heater loop, over the valve, by the firewall, is the highest point in the cooling system... some of us have installed a bleeder valve, at the high point.
Click to expand...


Great idea, thanks for the advice about the air bleeding.
 
If I'm understanding your picture correctly, you're saying the lower radiator whose is hot, at the heater loop junction.

But, the same hose is cold, as it reaches the water pump? I would expect the hose to be hot, from the rad to the pump...

Also, your first post says you filled "put like 2.5 containers of antifreeze"... As far as I can determine, an '82 has a coolant fill capacity of 16.9 qts.... How do you define a "container"? 2.5 one gallon jugs would be 10 qts...

Coolant: F Engine 17.5 qts
2F Engine 19 qts
1978 19.9 qts
1979 - 1982 16.9 qts

I'm still not clear...

Have you removed and reinstalled the thermostat?

Also, when you drained your coolant, did you open the heater valve to drain the heater loop?

Have you drained your block, using the petcock on the driver side of the block, roughly under the carb?

Before you replaced your water pump, was your engine overheating?
 
pngunme said:
If I'm understanding your picture correctly, you're saying the lower radiator whose is hot, at the heater loop junction.

But, the same hose is cold, as it reaches the water pump? I would expect the hose to be hot, from the rad to the pump...

Also, your first post says you filled "put like 2.5 containers of antifreeze"... As far as I can determine, an '82 has a coolant fill capacity of 16.9 qts.... How do you define a "container"? 2.5 one gallon jugs would be 10 qts...

Coolant: F Engine 17.5 qts
2F Engine 19 qts
1978 19.9 qts
1979 - 1982 16.9 qts

I'm still not clear...

Have you removed and reinstalled the thermostat?

Also, when you drained your coolant, did you open the heater valve to drain the heater loop?

Have you drained your block, using the petcock on the driver side of the block, roughly under the carb?

Before you replaced your water pump, was your engine overheating?
Click to expand...

So I replaced my waterpump. I drained the coolant from the radiator. I need to be a little for professional about this, but after the radiator drained, I simply took all the hoses off and tried to catch the mad rush of coolant when the waterpump came loose. Besides that, no block draining, no heater hose draining.

The hose close to the water pump and block warms up to close to the T. From the T to the radiator is cold. Before I replaces my waterpump the only thing that was wrong is a screaming from the waterpump bearings, so I replaced the waterpump. The cooling system was running normal.

Usually the fitting on top of the thermostat gets warm before the thermostat opens up, but this is not getting warm either as indicatecd in my annotated image.

When I let the engine cool in the currently 22F Denver weather, the overflow reservior gets sucked back into the engine when the engine cools. At that point I take the radiator cap off and add more coolant. There has to be a faster way at 22F to air bleed this thing.
 
Well, it certainly sounds like you have a lot of air in your coolant.

You should:
  1. remove your radiator cap,
  2. fill the radiator, replace the cap,
  3. start the engine, and turn the heaters on.
  4. drive and park with the front pointing uphill (Denver has hills ;)) on a good incline,
  5. let it warm up,
  6. carefully remove the rad cap (you should see bubbles coming to the top),
  7. Refill the radiator,
  8. Replace the cap,
  9. Repeat 5-8
I like to drive it after step 8... If it still heats up, start at step 4 and go to 8 again.

How long it takes or how many times you have to repeat is all dependent upon how many air pockets are spread out throughout your cooling system.

The heater loop is one of the worst culprits... But, you have to have your cooling system full and keep filling it back up... Kinda like bleeding air out of the brakes.
 
pngunme said:
Well, it certainly sounds like you have a lot of air in your coolant.

You should:
  1. remove your radiator cap,
  2. fill the radiator, replace the cap,
  3. start the engine, and turn the heaters on.
  4. drive and park with the front pointing uphill (Denver has hills ;)) on a good incline,
  5. let it warm up,
  6. carefully remove the rad cap (you should see bubbles coming to the top),
  7. Refill the radiator,
  8. Replace the cap,
  9. Repeat 5-8
I like to drive it after step 8... If it still heats up, start at step 4 and go to 8 again.

How long it takes or how many times you have to repeat is all dependent upon how many air pockets are spread out throughout your cooling system.

The heater loop is one of the worst culprits... But, you have to have your cooling system full and keep filling it back up... Kinda like bleeding air out of the brakes.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the great detailed description. This last time I let it cool to the point where I could take the cap off without antifreeze spewing everywhere. I started the vehicle with the rad cap off. After like 1 minute fluid began to rise and overflow, so I shut it off. I do not believe the engine was very warm at this stage, so I am guessing the waterpump was pushing the fluid? I never saw any bubbles before I had to put the cap back on.

When it heats up there is lots of pressure that builds up under the rad cap. I am guessing the pressure comes from a hot engine heating the coolant?
 
The critical part of this is the FJ40 is my daily driver while I swap engines in my 2005 Sequoia that broke a timing belt. I got the bad engine out, and now am swapping wiring harnesses from my motor to a motor that came out of a 2006 Tundra.
 
The air bubble is probably what was causing the fluid to rise and overflow. Try again and leave the cap off.
 
coonassjohn said:
The air bubble is probably what was causing the fluid to rise and overflow. Try again and leave the cap off.
Click to expand...
So you are suggesting I leave the cap off and let the coolant flow out onto the ground and engine? I wish there was a way to catch and reuse it. I wonder how much coolant would flow out?
 
Try a drip pan under the engine. An alternate method may work, let the engine cool, remove thermostat, remove upper rad. hose at rad. slowly fill thru rad hose with garden hose.
 
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