FJ60 Fuel Pump Replacement Question (1 Viewer)

[mrmanos]

Hi All,
I am going to install an OEM fuel pump in my 87 FJ60. It suddenly stopped running about 15 miles from home yesterday. After cranking the engine on the side of the road, it would start, run for about 30 seconds, then die. No sputtering at all, just die. Well, I always carry a spare fuel filter, so I changed it. The old one was half full of gas, but the new one, after cranking a few seconds, was empty. Hmm.. Well, has to call AAA and get it towed home. When I opened the hood, I saw the fuel filter about 1/4 full of gas. Started it, it fired right up, idled well, then quit after about 30 seconds. From the various threads I read here, I think it's the FP. Now, here is my question.I have a Kyocera pump I bought online from a dealer in Puerto Rico, who was closing his business. The pump is clean and new, I also bought the gaskets and spacer. I have never replaced a mechanical FP before, so Im not unsure if this is a problem, but when I try to move the arm that goes into the engine block, it doesn't move at all. It has a tiny amount of wiggle, but to me, it's not moving enough to work the diaphram inside. Is this normal for the arm not to move with finger pressure? I thought perhaps that it only moves when it is mounted, and hit by the cam that runs it.
I don't how old the new pump is, or if perhaps it's not working as it should. SO before I spend the time working on it outside in frigid Colorado weather, I thought I would ask here if anyone knows what I am referring to, ..the arm not moving under finger pressure.

 

[OSS]

Push in the pump arm hard. The spring inside is quite firm. Also it might have a little stiction going on. The factory manual describes how to test it.

 

[3_puppies]

start simple, does it have gas?
it takes more than finger pressure to move the lever. I will place on a bench and push down on the backside with the lever down.
if not getting gas, pickup tube could be rusted and sucking air or partially plugged.

 

[morganism]

jets in carb plugging? Drain out carb from sight glass, spray in carb cleaner, stick in magnet against brass jets, see if any chunks. Reverse hoses on charcoal cannister.

 

[mrmanos]

Push in the pump arm hard. The spring inside is quite firm. Also it might have a little stiction going on. The factory manual describes how to test it.

View attachment 1636100

Thanks for your input, and the diagrams. A friend helped me get the old pump off. Strange.. it had no gaskets or spacer! So, we took the new one, put it on, with gaskets and spacer, reconnected the hoses, and cranked it. Nothing at all. No gas to carb. So, we removed it and compared it next to the old one. The old one's arm moved about 1/3" , seemingly enough movement to actuate the diaphragm. The new pump had little marks on the arm, as if it was connecting with the cam, but the arm itself, did not move at all. I suggested to my friend that we put it in a vise and tap it, to see if it would move. He convinced me that I might brake it id if I did that, so I just put it aside, came in, and saw what you had all written. After reading the pre-check, I see that it says to put gas in the pump to see if the check valve works. I guess that tomorrow I'll pour gas in the pump and see if that frees up the arm. Is there a possibility that the new pump is somehow damaged? I put some gas in the carb, after installing the new pump, and it fired right up, but died. And there is no gas seen in the carb glass. So, it appears the new pump isn't pumping.
Before it quit running yesterday, it wasn't running rough, or exhibiting any signs of clogged jets in the carb, and the fuel filter didn't have gunk or dirt in it. My conclusion was that the new pump is defective, but after reading about the pre-check, running gas in the pump, and the comment about really needing a lot of force to get the arm moving, I'm gonna try again in the morning. Once again, thank you guys for your input. Some guys here walked me through replacing my old radiator with an aluminum one several years back, and I really appreciated the good advice I received. This site is my go-to place for all questions FJ60 related. I will get back here tomorrow and let you'all know how I'm getting on. Oh yeah, one thing I discovered is that if you remove the oil filter it gives you much more room to get the wrench on.

 

[TachedOutOffRoad]

Run a hose from the inlet to the filter into a gas jug. That will help isolate that's it's under the hood and not an issue with something in the line or in the tank.

When my line between tank and filter was clogged, the filter would fill, just very slowly, revvv the engine, draining it quickly, then idle rough because not enough fuel. Turn it off, and it would slowly fill the filter again.

 

[3_puppies]

is the old spacer stuck to the engine block? when installing new spacer with old still on block it won't work.
did the new pump show any signs of rub on the arm where the cam was turning?

 

[4Cruisers]

Make sure it's not a clogged line from the tank to the fuel filter, that was the case with my '84 FJ60 recently. If your old pump had failed there's a good chance you've got some fuel in your oil pan. Best to do an oil and filter change.

 

[mrmanos]

is the old spacer stuck to the engine block? when installing new spacer with old still on block it won't work.
did the new pump show any signs of rub on the arm where the cam was turning?

There was no spacer or gaskets on the block! Strange for sure. But, after putting new pump on, then removing it, there were the same marks on the arm that were on the old one. I filled all the inlet, outlet, return pipes this a.m. and still could not the arm to move at all. I put it in a vise, and tapped it w/ small ball-peen hammer, no dice. It wouldn't budge. I then filled the old pump w/ gas, worked the arm, nothing came out at all. When I turned it upside down, all the gas ran out. I'm reasonably sure the old one is broke, and the new one won't work either. At this point, I'm gonna just try to find a new pump, install it, and hope it works. If it doesn't, then I'll go through the hoses. I know all it takes is one piece of rust or dirt or gunk to clog up a hose, but it's obvious to me the new pump isn't working like it should. I'm doing all this work outside, in between snow storms and sub-freezing temps, northern Colorado, so getting under the vehicle and going over the hoses is the last thing I want to do. If I had a heated garage and a lift, then checking everything would be lot easier. For now, I'll go with a new pump, and take it from there. I'll post my success or failure here as the situation continues.

 

[3_puppies]

how about some pics?

 

[augirthedude]

OEM pump from Toyota .. it’s more money , but no question it will be the correct pump . I did this and got an after market pump and had drivability issues , then got a factory pump and then it ran like normal ..

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Same here ^^^.

Kurt w/ @cruiseroutfit had the kyosan pump a year ago for under $90. Take it from me and many, just get that one, don’t try to skimp out.

 

[mrmanos]

OEM pump from Toyota .. it’s more money , but no question it will be the correct pump . I did this and got an after market pump and had drivability issues , then got a factory pump and then it ran like normal ..

The pump IS a Kyocera, in a Toyota box, it's as OEM as I'm gonna get. It still doesn't work. There is NO play in the arm, no matter how hard I push. It's as if it wasn't assembled correctly, which is pretty hard to believe. I ordered a generic Airfix, one that I could actually get here in my town without waiting for shipping from the west coast. It's kind of cheaply made, but it looks like it'll work. I read the Toyota FSM page on removal that someone posted for me. I am wondering if there is a pre-installation checklist of things you need to do before installing. It's strange to me that such a basic, low tech piece of kit would not just simply work as it should, and not require a bunch of pre install stuff. I mean, these are basic low pressure pumps with only a few moving parts. Anyway, forgive my rant, but it's gotten to be a real pain in the ass. Maybe it's because it's around zero and snowing, and I'm working in an unheated barn. Yes, I will take some pics tomorrow of the pumps, the old unused one that doesn't work, the original, which seems like it ought to work, and the brand new one I just got about an hour ago. I'll figure it out eventually.

 

[mrmanos]

Same here ^^^.

Kurt w/ @cruiseroutfit had the kyosan pump a year ago for under $90. Take it from me and many, just get that one, don’t try to skimp out.

I already have a Kyo. The arm doesn't move but about 1/16 of an inch! I already put it on, then took it off. It's junk. I live 12 miles from town, on a dirt road, on a farm. Thats the extent of my driving. I never, ever, take the rig to Denver(over the mountains) it lives a light duty life. If the pump only works for a year, I'm okay with that. I'm kind of over the OEM only mindset, since the OEM pump I have is s***. No off-brand pump could be any worse.

 

[mrmanos]

how about some pics?

I'll do pics tomorrow when we install.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I’ll just add that tho I am a girl and most def don’t have the upper body strength men have, I was unable to actuate the arm either on the new one I bought. Buy an aftermarket but be sure the angle of the arm is exactly the same as your old stock pump. I had an aftermarket I picked up on rock auto be just a tad diff angled. I had no clue and I didn’t ask... it got broken right off by one of the cam lobes hence why I decided to spend the money and contacted @cruiseroutfit.

 

[mrmanos]

Update, 10 minutes from last post. I took the old, new stock Kyocera and ran it under very hot water from the tap for about 3 min. Then, applied as much palm pressure as I could on the arm...and it moved. I carefully re-tried it, and it moved again, this time about the right amount. I could hear air whooshing out the pipe that feeds the carb. I'm pretty sure that means it works. Whoever told me you needed to apply a lot of force..you were right. I'm still gonna take pics tomorrow when I install. Back tomorrow.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Can you post a picture of the Kyocera?

Toyota uses Kyosan as the OE, it should look just like this:

 

[mrmanos]

Yes, thanks for that tip. I'll be sure to check the angle. One thing I'm sort of confused by is that everyone mentioned the spacer, and how important it is. One my LC, there was no spacer, nor gaskets. I've had this truck for 10 or 12 years and never had any fuel delivery problems. So, I'm thinking that I'm going to leave it off when I do the install. I hope it doesn't snap it off. I'll compare the angles before I do the work.

I’ll just add that tho I am a girl and most def don’t have the upper body strength men have, I was unable to actuate the arm either on the new one I bought. Buy an aftermarket but be sure the angle of the arm is exactly the same as your old stock pump. I had an aftermarket I picked up on rock auto be just a tad diff angled. I had no clue and I didn’t ask... it got broken right off by one of the cam lobes hence why I decided to spend the money and contacted @cruiseroutfit.

 

[mrmanos]

Can you post a picture of the Kyocera?

Toyota uses Kyosan as the OE, it should look just like this:

View attachment 1639639

That's exactly like mine, even the box is the same.