Oil Changed ... too much oil ... (1 Viewer)

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Funny thing is; When I did my first 100 series oil change, I was impressed with how easy the oil filter was to get at. Then seeing Mr T. put a little lip to guide runoff away, I thought wow how sweet is that.

Wait until you see the 200 series oil filter setup. Mr T :moon: digressed :moon:,,, PITA job.
 
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OH?! tell me more!
Basically they're just a kit with extension hoses and an adapter plate that installs onto filter location and allows you to place oil filter to another spot in the engine compartment. It also adds more oil capacity.
Every time I see someone use one, they place the filter upright so when you take it off you don't spill any oil everywhere - only makes sense! Never understood why engineers place oil filters horizontally or upside down and in a location you can barely get access to - you should see where some Lexus have their filters located, lol.
 
After draining oil to the full mark, took it out for a spin.
Seems to run smoother ... but it just might be my imagination.
At least I feel better - my OCD :)
 
Basically they're just a kit with extension hoses and an adapter plate that installs onto filter location and allows you to place oil filter to another spot in the engine compartment. It also adds more oil capacity.
Every time I see someone use one, they place the filter upright so when you take it off you don't spill any oil everywhere - only makes sense! Never understood why engineers place oil filters horizontally or upside down and in a location you can barely get access to - you should see where some Lexus have their filters located, lol.

You will have low oil pressure everytime you accelerate with a oil filter relocation kit because the oil now has to travel farther than it was designed to. The oil pressure will increase to normal for that rpm but it will take a min for that to happen, then oil pressure will remain high for a few seconds on deceleration.
 
I too only get ~6.8 in. I'm using the M1-102 filter which a is bit small, plus we never get it all out.

@spressomon recently report very poor gas mileage, from over filling. He tried many things to get better than 9MPG. Then found crank case was overfilled. Lower oil level and MPG went up to `12 IIRC.

Toyota recommends never overfilling, due to risk of hydrolock. This was told to me by a mechanic at a Toyota Dealership 14 years ago.

To remove overfill:
  1. I've a hand pump with surgical hose 1/4" I run down dipstick tube, then suck out oil.
  2. Other times I just remove oil filter, drain/empty it out as many times as necessary. Less mess and more controllable than pulling oil drain plug, and then I don't need a new drain plug gasket either.

I average 14 all day long with my 8qts of Rotella 5w-40.
 
I average 14 all day long with my 8qts of Rotella 5w-40.

I use Rotella 5w-40 in 3 vehicles but not in my Lexus LX470.
Wondering if you have a specific reason???
I have 2 1980s Mercedes gasoline engine cars and I use Rotella because its high Zinc content lubricates the valves.
And in my 2000 Isuzu Trooper because Isuzu engines are known to be oil burners.
 
Basically they're just a kit with extension hoses and an adapter plate that installs onto filter location and allows you to place oil filter to another spot in the engine compartment. It also adds more oil capacity.
Every time I see someone use one, they place the filter upright so when you take it off you don't spill any oil everywhere - only makes sense! Never understood why engineers place oil filters horizontally or upside down and in a location you can barely get access to - you should see where some Lexus have their filters located, lol.


The first generation IS300 is prime example of stupid oil filter location. I hated doing my old car, but still can’t trust someone else to do it.
 
I use Rotella 5w-40 in 3 vehicles but not in my Lexus LX470.
Wondering if you have a specific reason???
I have 2 1980s Mercedes gasoline engine cars and I use Rotella because its high Zinc content lubricates the valves.
And in my 2000 Isuzu Trooper because Isuzu engines are known to be oil burners.

My specific reason? It is the best oil on the market for the money. Period. The end.

In over the road trucks it is rated for 80,000 miles between oil changes.
The high zinc content is no longer true, it has been formulated to meet new emissions standards which means low to no zinc, zinc ruins catylitic converters and exhaust filters and well as oxygen sensors.
But you cannot beat the additive package in Rotella, it is hands down the best motor oil out there. It does not thin out when it gets hot like Mobil 1 does either.
My oil pressure gauge is at the 3/4 mark all day long, I use the $hit in everything. Except my wifes van, she drives a mile a day total and anything other than a 0-w20 and it protests.
I had been using Mobil 1 in it for the last 50k, and it used 1qt every 2,000 miles, switched to Castrol Syntec, no more oil usage and the engine is quieter when hot. She drives a Kia Sedona. I change the oil in that every 5,000 miles.
 
I used to be a “lower bay tech” at jiffy lube - yea some filter placements make me want to grab an engineer by the ear and make him change the oil.
 
My specific reason? It is the best oil on the market for the money. Period. The end.

In over the road trucks it is rated for 80,000 miles between oil changes.
The high zinc content is no longer true, it has been formulated to meet new emissions standards which means low to no zinc, zinc ruins catylitic converters and exhaust filters and well as oxygen sensors.
But you cannot beat the additive package in Rotella, it is hands down the best motor oil out there. It does not thin out when it gets hot like Mobil 1 does either.
My oil pressure gauge is at the 3/4 mark all day long, I use the $hit in everything. Except my wifes van, she drives a mile a day total and anything other than a 0-w20 and it protests.
I had been using Mobil 1 in it for the last 50k, and it used 1qt every 2,000 miles, switched to Castrol Syntec, no more oil usage and the engine is quieter when hot. She drives a Kia Sedona. I change the oil in that every 5,000 miles.

Which Rotella ?

I ran Rotella T6 religiously in my diesels but never gave it much consideration for gas automotive use. I see they now have a T6 multi vehicle flavor.
 
Which Rotella ?

I ran Rotella T6 religiously in my diesels but never gave it much consideration for gas automotive use. I see they now have a T6 multi vehicle flavor.

T6, full synthetic heavy duty diesel oil in 5w-40, it has always been rated for gas and Diesel engines. All diesel rated oil is usable in gasoline engines but not vise versa.
You can use a "car" motor oil in a diesel but it will not last as long, won't provide the soot protection that the engine needs and will definitely break down due to the higher pressures placed on the bearings.
"Car" motor oil is fine for small diesels, like Jetta's and such, but I'm talking big diesels, over the road trucks, off road equipment etc.

One of the reasons I use the T6 is I can get it anywhere, truck stops, any auto parts store, Walmart, Tractor Supply...anywhere. So if I'm in a pinch and need some for whatever reason I can easily buy it. And it's cheap, $20/gal...come on!!! You cannnot go wrong with that!!

I do not use Mobil 1 HD diesel 5w-40 because Mobil 1 motor oil is notorious for thinning out when hot, and it is more expensive.
Just jump over to Bobistheoilguy.com and read it for yourself. That place is full of people with nothing better to do than discuss lubricants and motor fuels for days on end.
 
I used to be a “lower bay tech” at jiffy lube - yea some filter placements make me want to grab an engineer by the ear and make him change the oil.

I work at a shop, sometimes i have to do oil changes if it's too busy. I hated the first gen IS300, GMC Arcadia, Toyota 3.3 with the filters next to the headers. Then on a particular year 1999 ? ford Explorer that has a drain plug pointing towards the control arm, i got facialized one time for that. Such a piece of crap engineering, not sure what they were thinking. GMC Arcadia also shoots oil in your face with the drain plug too, people have to use a funnel to catch it from hitting the subframe.
 
I too only get ~6.8 in. I'm using the M1-102 filter which a is bit small, plus we never get it all out.

@spressomon recently report very poor gas mileage, from over filling. He tried many things to get better than 9MPG. Then found crank case was overfilled. Lower oil level and MPG went up to `12 IIRC.

Toyota recommends never overfilling, due to risk of hydrolock. This was told to me by a mechanic at a Toyota Dealership 14 years ago.

To remove overfill:
  1. I've a hand pump with surgical hose 1/4" I run down dipstick tube, then suck out oil.
  2. Other times I just remove oil filter, drain/empty it out as many times as necessary. Less mess and more controllable than pulling oil drain plug, and then I don't need a new drain plug gasket either.
Here is a puzzle...add 7 quarts. Its at least one qt over limit.
 
Either not checking properly; After warm up, shut down and wait 5 to 15 minutes.
Not fully draining which includes replacing oil filter. If oil filter not replaced, adding 7 qts is to much!
Not seen or head of this, but; If obstruction in oil circulation, so that, oil not getting to and through filter and oil pump.
 
Either not checking properly; After warm up, shut down and wait 5 to 15 minutes.
Not fully draining which includes replacing oil filter. If oil filter not replaced, adding 7 qts is to much!
Not seen or head of this, but; If obstruction in oil circulation, so that, oil not getting to and through filter and oil pump.
It is very odd. One thing i did was first replace oil filter, then drain on a cold motor. Maybe an issue with that caused oil not to drain while on a flat surface? Weird indeed. Drained enough to put it right on the dip stick. Today will recheck. I did not measure how much old oil drained.
 
Must drain on flat surface and best 30 minutes after shutting down a warmed up engine. Must run engine and warm up, wait 5 to 15min, before checking level.
 

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