TWT -- The Wrenching Thread (4 Viewers)

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I honestly didn't realize you still owned a cruiser :flipoff2:

From the picture it looks like all of the ring gear bolts are loose. Don't drive the truck if you can avoid it. Pull the diff and have it rebuilt by a reputable shop, whoever was in there last did a s*** job.


I own one. It's just a paperweight to prevent the leaves from blowing away in my driveway.

@fj40alex friend came by to check it out for a project and this happened. Glad it was then and not after him or someone bought it.

If the bolts came out of that pinion easily, can I not just retorque and add thread locker?
 
If the bolts came out of that pinion easily, can I not just retorque and add thread locker?

The bolts are coming out of the ring gear, not the pinion. You pulled a ring gear bolt head out of the housing, meaning that at least one is broken, so they can't be retorqued. If they were loose and not broken, you could torque them down without full tear down, but you'd have to, at a minimum, check the backlash and pattern to make sure the ring gear pulled down to the same exact spot as when the diff was put together.

Honestly though, since the last person who put that together improperly torqued the ring gear bolts, and/or forgot loctite, then the whole diff is brought into question. I wouldn't trust it. Recommend full rebuild.
 
@tgadd East Coast Gear supply rebuilt the rear 3rd on my ‘94 and did a great job. Have heard good feedback from anyone that has used them as well.
 
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Might try ECGS, awesome crew.
 
@tgadd Get another used third member and swap it in. @Roxx might have one or maybe the guy at H&H. If you pull one from a front axle it is likely to have less wear than one from a rear axle. Assuming you are still geared 4.11, it should be a simple swap. It'll take a couple of hours tops.
 
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Refurbing a CL purchase m12

So it started with lemme check the grease and rewire control pack connections and somehow snowballed into waiting on some new parts n stickers from warn just because.

No trying to resist powdercoating while i wait.
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I have an older Ramsey 8000lb winch that came on our 40 when we got it. It didn’t work at all but after cleaning controller contacts it would spoil in but not out, which was easily solved by just free spoiling out. However, after one adventure with it it was broken. Now nothing works, you can here the motor running when you press the controller but the drum does not spin except in free spool.

Any ideas?
 
I have an older Ramsey 8000lb winch that came on our 40 when we got it. It didn’t work at all but after cleaning controller contacts it would spoil in but not out, which was easily solved by just free spoiling out. However, after one adventure with it it was broken. Now nothing works, you can here the motor running when you press the controller but the drum does not spin except in free spool.

Any ideas?

If your motor is working, that eliminates your problem being on the electrical side (for spool-in at least). It's a mechanical issue. Either a broken tooth or possibly just crudded-up internals. Pull it apart and see what you find. Ramsey is a good brand. You can get parts for them and they are not real expensive. Your issue may be a simple fix. Take it down, clean it up, fix any obvious issues, grease it up and re-assemble.
 
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I took off this side cover before and it was full of stacks of gears. Nothing seemed broken as far as we could tell.
 
So I went to napa today to order o2 sensors for my 80 and I was absolutely stunned by the price. I believe he said he could get ngk(as in the spark plug brand? Not sure) for $75 apiece but he could get Bosch, denso, anything. Densos were twice the price he said. And I called the Toyota dealership and they quoted $560 for the o2 sensors for both sides. Are these normal prices? Does the brand matter?
 
What year? Its obd1 correct?

IIRC, OBD rigs have NTK, OBD2 rigs have Denso.

Get denso over bosch but for your year NTK should work.

Early OEM were supplied by NTK. They are avail on rock auto i believe.
 
If anyone wants a strong argument for quality parts and not skimping. I Reused the factory AC compressor tensioner pully when I put in a Chinese replacement compressor in. Well at some point in the first week or so the compressor decided to give up. The resulting mess that it made of the OEM plastic pully:
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Sufficed to say the replacement compressor is a better quality one and the pully is a $39 metal one...
 
What year? Its obd1 correct?

IIRC, OBD rigs have NTK, OBD2 rigs have Denso.

Get denso over bosch but for your year NTK should work.

Early OEM were supplied by NTK. They are avail on rock auto i believe.
It is a 94, so OBD 1 I believe. In that case I’ll definetely get the ntk from Napa. They were less than rock auto(I buy so much I have a shop account)
 

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