What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (76 Viewers)

[Tahomatom]

Replaced the front door speakers with Infinity 6030's from a previous post. Sounds a lot better but is not booming. Still way better than the blown speakers it had in the 04.
The plastic around the door locks is a pain to remove but an easy job.

Now I have to figure out how to remove the trip piece below the stereo to swap the cig lighter to a USB plus. The top comes off but something is holding the bottom in place and will have to do another search.

 

[ncrockinfj]

Oil change - obviously not a big deal since this is routine maintenance
Lubed Propeller shaft - big deal as this took care or my CLUNK! Now added in as part of my standard maintenance program. Was great driving to work this morning without the thud I've had the past few months.

 

[brizzle]

Got a few @sleeoffroad goodies in the mail today.

 

[rjones]

Did a few things over the Fri-Sunday weekend.

-- Checked neutral pressure on AHC. I have a Dissent hybrid front bumper w/o a winch (yet), Trail Tailor step sliders with cover plate, Expo++ roof rack that was empty at the time, KISS drawers with about 60-70 lbs of gear and a half tank of gas. 2006 LX with 156k, unlikely TB's ever adjusted by previous owner. Techstream L to N:

Before:
Front 7.9 MPa
Rear 7.7 MPa

After 5 full clockwise:
Front 6.6 MPa
Rear 7.0 MPa
Accum PSI Sensor 10.3 (don't know, is this good?)

A real improvement in ride. Still feel the bumps but they do not 'shock' through the truck now. I think I'm going to try the spacers in the rear for now and save the heavier rear springs for after the rear bumper. Once I get the winch, skid plates and rear bumper I wonder if I will have to replace/upgrade the torsion bars?

-- Picked up my steel wheels from the powder coater on Friday. Federation Brown to match the sliders and front bumper center caps and stinger. Crappy picture I know, doesn't do the color justice. Some poser pictures below with the wheels faked into place. Hopefully to the tire shop in the next weekend or two.

Rear Wheel Current:

Rear Wheel Steel:

Front steel:

Stitched Picture front and rear:

Cheers!
rjones

 

[Kabanstva]

Any reason for the steel wheels? I think the current wheels on there look MUCH better.

 

[jahawk]

I' running the same wheels and love them.

Kabanstva, there really is no benefit of going steel wheels outside of how they look.

Jim

Did a few things over the Fri-Sunday weekend.

-- Checked neutral pressure on AHC. I have a Dissent hybrid front bumper w/o a winch (yet), Trail Tailor step sliders with cover plate, Expo++ roof rack that was empty at the time, KISS drawers with about 60-70 lbs of gear and a half tank of gas. 2006 LX with 156k, unlikely TB's ever adjusted by previous owner. Techstream L to N:

Before:
Front 7.9 MPa
Rear 7.7 MPa

After 5 full clockwise:
Front 6.6 MPa
Rear 7.0 MPa
Accum PSI Sensor 10.3 (don't know, is this good?)

A real improvement in ride. Still feel the bumps but they do not 'shock' through the truck now. I think I'm going to try the spacers in the rear for now and save the heavier rear springs for after the rear bumper. Once I get the winch, skid plates and rear bumper I wonder if I will have to replace/upgrade the torsion bars?

-- Picked up my steel wheels from the powder coater on Friday. Federation Brown to match the sliders and front bumper center caps and stinger. Crappy picture I know, doesn't do the color justice. Some poser pictures below with the wheels faked into place. Hopefully to the tire shop in the next weekend or two.

View attachment 1617690

Rear Wheel Current:
View attachment 1617693

Rear Wheel Steel:
View attachment 1617694

Front steel:
View attachment 1617691

Stitched Picture front and rear:
View attachment 1617692

Cheers!
rjones

 

[YvesNL]

I replaced the outer CV joint of my left driveshaft. The reason for this was a worn out snap ring groove, here's a (out of focus) picture:

As you can see the gap is very wide, and there are almost no material left. So I ordered a replacement outer joint and got to work.

First I cut off the outside rubber boot, used a paper towel to get some of the grease off and grabbed a large hammer.
The outer joint is retained by a metal C clip that you cannot reach. You have to whack the old joint off and put a new clip in.

So after a few bangs with a large hammer the joint was off:

On the bottom of the shaft you can see the groove for the C clip.

At this point I fitted the new C clip and slid the new joint on and realized I hadn't put the new rubber boot on.
I was a bit distracted and busy talking with a mate.

So I also loosened the other side (you can reach and reuse the C clip here):

After taking the inner side apart I installed the outside rubber boot, then the inside rubber boot, then the inner joint.
Put grease in and... Done.

Easy job, but do not forget the rubber boot.

Also bought a winch for the Cruiser. I will make a build thread on my hidden winch mount.

Took steel cable off, re spooled with synthetic line. I am going to install it this weekend.

EDIT: @Ayune My hidden winch build is in by build thread here

 

[2001LC]

I replaced the outer CV joint of my left driveshaft. The reason for this was a worn out snap ring groove, here's a (out of focus) picture:
View attachment 1617834

As you can see the gap is very wide, and there are almost no material left. So I ordered a replacement outer joint and got to work.

First I cut off the outside rubber boot, used a paper towel to get some of the grease off and grabbed a large hammer.
The outer joint is retained by a metal C clip that you cannot reach. You have to whack the old joint off and put a new clip in.

So after a few bangs with a large hammer the joint was off:
View attachment 1617838

On the bottom of the shaft you can see the groove for the C clip.

At this point I fitted the new C clip and slid the new joint on and realized I hadn't put the new rubber boot on.
I was a bit distracted and busy talking with a mate.

So I also loosened the other side (you can reach and reuse the C clip here):
View attachment 1617839

After taking the inner side apart I installed the outside rubber boot, then the inside rubber boot, then the inner joint.
Put grease in and... Done.

Easy job, but do not forget the rubber boot.

Also bought a winch for the Cruiser. I will make a build thread on my hidden winch mount.
View attachment 1617840
Took steel cable off, re spooled with synthetic line. I am going to install it this weekend.

Nice job!
We can not get the outer tulip (CV) any longer in the USA. Where did you get yours and how much was it?

 

[YvesNL]

A mate with a garage sourced one for me, I do not know the exact price yet. I believe it was 150 euro's / 180 dollars but I am not sure.

I also found some aftermarket options, but they might not be as strong as the Toyota (ODM) ones.

You can also find some on ebay if you search for "landcruiser 100 outer cv".

After I installed the outer joint I also installed my second hand front differential.
So after a week, I can drive it again.

I also installed new drive flanges shifts were quite smooth before the new parts, but are even better now.

 

[geanes]

Any reason for the steel wheels? I think the current wheels on there look MUCH better.

Agreed. I have those same Tundra SR5 wheels and think they are easily the BEST looking factory wheels for the 100-Series by a large margin. I am considering going with the Method NV in bronze though.....those things are ridiculously hot.

 

[PcCruiser]

Did my valve cover gaskets, spark plug tube gaskets, water hoses and heater Ts, PCV valve and grommet and hose, spark plugs, all new ignition coil packs, cleaned MAF and throttle body, new fuel filter and new brackets and bushings that hold and space the A/C lines over the radiator.

*******************

Didn't have time for the rest of my list:
-new idler pulleys, tensioner and pulley and serpentine belt
-Driver CV axle
-Radiator hoses
-Oil Change
-Pull rear diff to check tolerances and install new shims if needed (very suspect installation at this point - may even need new 4.88 gears)
-replace rear pinion seal (leaking a lot - see above)
-replace rear pinion yolk (rock took a chunk out - pinion seal was leaking before this)
-re-do the little reservoir on my ARB compressor so it stops leaking and I can use my lockers again
-re-run the air lines for lockers and diff breather so they aren't run over the muffler heat shield where the edge can cut them (see above for suspect work from a shop)
-Balance rear drive shaft
-pull front drive shaft so it can be converted to double cardan
-install puddle/courtesy lights (easy and quick just ran out of time)
-do my door locks (have the actuators already)

Listing my house soon so not sure when I'll get time. Once we move out no work will be done until new house is built. But then it is on! Will have a 2 bay deep extra garage dedicated as a workshop with a lift and all the goodies!

ToDo after new house with shop is built:

-Anything above that hasn't been done already
-Sequoia 150amp alternator install and upgrade charging wires
-Voltage booster for new alternator
-Motor mounts and transmission mount
-Doug Thorley Headers, high flow cats, full new cat back exhaust
-Rear custom drawer system (wife will be getting a new vehicle with 3rd row seats after we close on house and I have been give the green light to finally get rid of mine yay!)
-Finish out sound deadening of all inside (dynomat and dynaliner like stuff)
-All new carpet and new leather
-Recover door panel leather and dash (going to get an upgraded look with baseball stitching on the dash)
-HAM Radio install
-Inverter and 110 plugs plus additional USB plugs in rear

At which point I will call my build accomplished (as in meeting all my original plans and goals. Because there is no such thing as calling a build complete).

Any thoughts on replacing all the body mounts? Based on how brittle and stiff all the other rubber has been I wonder if replacing those could get a tad bit of cushion back.

And yes I need a build thread........

 

[Ayune]

I will make a build thread on my hidden winch mount.

Please do! I'm about to consign this project to my local metal fab'r and I'd like to see what you come up with.

 

[rjones]

Any reason for the steel wheels? I think the current wheels on there look MUCH better.

Agreed. I have those same Tundra SR5 wheels and think they are easily the BEST looking factory wheels for the 100-Series by a large margin. I am considering going with the Method NV in bronze though.....those things are ridiculously hot.

You guys are nuts. Everyone and their Sequoia driving sister has those silver Tundra wheels. They were always just a cheap (low-cost that is) temporary fix to get the chrome wheels off from the Previous Owner.

IMO the steelies give it the more balanced off-road look that I am going for! There are other benefits to steel wheels off-road but I do not wheel quite that hard just yet.

I'm not against alloy wheels as a whole... I still check every day on CL for someone trying to quickly move a set of the Tundra TRD Pro wheels. Might someday grab a set of the regular Tundra TRD and have them powder coated to match.

Cheers,
rjones

 

[johsti]

Now I have to figure out how to remove the trip piece below the stereo to swap the cig lighter to a USB plus. The top comes off but something is holding the bottom in place and will have to do another search.

You will need to remove the center console trim first. Then you can pop out the trim below the stereo where the cigarette lighter is. There are four clips that hold the console trim in place. Start in the back near the cup holders and work your way forward.

 

[Lopott]

Got a few @sleeoffroad goodies in the mail today.View attachment 1617367

Looking forward to the video. As that is next for me.

 

[FatHero]

Switch for driver's side window started to get a little iffy. So ordered a replacement from amayama.com. I do believe there are lower cost options available, but a trusted source has used Amayama on several parts and been very happy.

It arrives about a week later and the part looks like the real deal. I'm told it's the actual Toyota part, but much cheaper than offered at local dealers.

So out comes my high-tech Pampered Chef spatula, and in a few minutes later...

 

[FatHero]

I forgot about the 5 image limit. Here's the rest ...

A perfect fit and works like it did when new

 

[bozncsurf]

Picked up Trail Tailor diff drop from the powder coater.. No powder in the nut threads

Thanks @reevesci

 

[TXSunDevil]

ARB drawer arrived after month back order

 

[TXSunDevil]

Just finished installing these in the dark using the headlights for illumination. These instructions are pretty bad. Measurements are in mm so I had to Google the conversions. Drawers feel solid. I spent around 3.5 hours total messing with this thing and I still need to install the fridge tie downs tomorrow. The packaging was great and descriptive but the instructions were difficult. I could do the next one in an hour or so. And here is a photo of the single drawer with the 3rd row installed. In my searching it has been a pretty elusive photo.