I’ve been searching for an answer for a few days now with no luck. I have a 93 that developed a knock at 275k, ordered a used engine off of lowmileageusedparts.com, was supposed to have 108k miles. It arrived and was a pile of crap, cost me $600 to return it.. oh well lesson learned. Disassembled my block and found #1 were scored looked like overheat. Decided to bring it all in to an engine builder in town (October 18th)In the mean time I removed a security system that was scanned into the harness and soldered/heat shrinked the wires back together. I finally get the engine back last Thursday and get it installed by Sunday. Engine cranks but will not start. Checked spark, it’s good, checked fuel have fuel. Checked timing 500 times and it’s good. Cel light is on while cranking. What could possibly prevent the engine from starting or even trying to start if I have fuel and spark? I even tried a little eather, not even a stumble. I’m terrified I have no compression but wondering if the alarm wiring could cause this?
Another 1fzfe no start help thread (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter winmag
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An alarm system would inhibit crank, spark or fuel most likely.
I don't think that's your problem.
I was going to say timing, but... Could be valve timing though.
I don't think that's your problem.
I was going to say timing, but... Could be valve timing though.
Great guys here with far more knowledge than me, so hang in there. One recent post was found to be 180 out of 1st TDC. Pull your #1 plug and using a wooden dowel check that your piston is at top position. I have a ‘93 too. Good luck.
Could be timing, as seen recently the distributor could be 180 degrees off. A timing light might help figure that out. The dowel suggestion won't work, the #1 is at TDC twice in its cycle, but only works when it fires on the correct one.
Check your compression. If you're worried about it, you should follow you instincts.
Well, then you've got yourself a mystery. When you say you have fuel and spark, how did you verify them? If there's fuel and spark in the cylinder, something should happen, unless the piston is missing or the valves aren't opening. If you verify fuel and spark in the cylinder and proper timing, a compression test might be in your future.
Correct me if im wrong here but shouldn't the engine builder check timing, compression and run rebuilt engine before giving it back the customer??
- Thread starter
- #13
I knew it was compression when I posted this but really REALLY didn’t won’t to believe it... oh well
I'm really sorry you're going through this. After buying a used engine too.
That's a lot of suck.
Sorry dude.
That's a lot of suck.
Sorry dude.
ppc
M Go Blue
Sounds like the cams were not installed properly according to the FSM.
I would pull the valve cover and hand crank the engine to visually check valve sequence.
There is cam to cam timing as well as cam to crank timing. Then there is distributor timing. If the engine rebuilder got two, but not the last one, then it's a problem.
If no compression:
Timing
Valves not adjusted properly
Piston rings not installed properly
Head gasket not installed properly
Just thinking out loud:
If you have spark, then your crank sensor is working and your ECM is working.
If you have fuel, then your ECM is working and it is meeting the requirements. But are they firing at the RIGHT TIME?
Is it flooded and just won't fire because of that? Maybe the injectors sticking open?
But you have no compression......
Good Luck!
If no compression:
Timing
Valves not adjusted properly
Piston rings not installed properly
Head gasket not installed properly
Just thinking out loud:
If you have spark, then your crank sensor is working and your ECM is working.
If you have fuel, then your ECM is working and it is meeting the requirements. But are they firing at the RIGHT TIME?
Is it flooded and just won't fire because of that? Maybe the injectors sticking open?
But you have no compression......
Good Luck!
