(fiingers crossed) Hoping to get a welder soon and I'm not sure how thick the metal needs to be. Figured I would work backwards from necessary thickness of steel and determine what sized welder could work with that.
Is 3/16" steel thick enough for 80-series bumpers/rock sliders? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter fuzzywuzzy
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inkpot
SILVER Star
Where do you want to wheel and how aggressive do you drive?
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Good question - I live in SoCal so most trips will be in the Anza Borrego area and maybe occasionally further east or Big Bear. I don't rock crawl and have no intention of starting but I'm considering winch and would like to have mount points for recovery. Mostly general protection and recovery for front, protection of door/sills for sliders and rear I want to do a gas can mount/tire carrier combo.
Oh, and lastly I want to hang my fat ass off the bumper in a hammock so maybe a couple receivers for steel poles for hammock (seriously).
Oh, and lastly I want to hang my fat ass off the bumper in a hammock so maybe a couple receivers for steel poles for hammock (seriously).
One of my favorite builds uses 1/4" for the center and 3/16" for everything else:
Front winch bumper design/build
I could swear I've seen people say that they used 3/16" and would go thinner and brace it if they were doing it over again.
Front winch bumper design/build
I could swear I've seen people say that they used 3/16" and would go thinner and brace it if they were doing it over again.
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- #5
That build is pretty close to what I was thinking about myself and looks awesome! I wonder how much the weight difference would be between using 3/16 vs thinner steel but using more of the thin stuff for gussets and boxing.
Problem is that one welder I'm looking at, the Miller 141, tops at 3/16" but uses standard 110/120v. The Miller 211 is a more expensive welder but can do up to 7/16" I believe. Also, the 211 requires 220/240v which I don't have so would need to have a new outlet put in.
Problem is that one welder I'm looking at, the Miller 141, tops at 3/16" but uses standard 110/120v. The Miller 211 is a more expensive welder but can do up to 7/16" I believe. Also, the 211 requires 220/240v which I don't have so would need to have a new outlet put in.
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The answer to your question is the ability to weld up to and including 3/8” steel. Most of the fabricator style bumpers (I would include Slee in this list) use 3/16” for the bumper wings with proper internal bracing. I would not weld on shackle mounts after the fact. The shackle mounts should be the side frame mounts. I would make them out of 3/8 and double them up (3/4”) fish plating them together. Them build the center portion with the wings being last.
For sliders I would use .120” DOM tubing and 3/16” 2”x 2” or 2x3” square stock. Depending on how you plan to attach them to the frame 1/4” or 3/8”.
For sliders I would use .120” DOM tubing and 3/16” 2”x 2” or 2x3” square stock. Depending on how you plan to attach them to the frame 1/4” or 3/8”.
If the rear will also include a tow hitch then there are other structural elements that have to be addressed. If you have question you can always send me a PM or we could talk about it at Mike’s BBQ.
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- #8
No plans to tow, god knows my mileage is already horrible, could only imagine what adding a trailer would do. Good call on Mike's, I have to head up there for upcoming meeting.
design them right and you shouldn't need more than 3/16" plate
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- #10
Good point @pandathrust but having zero experience in this arena I'm not sure how to design them. Honestly was thinking of just winging it. was thinking that cost of welder plus steel would save me money in long run vs purchasing pre-built or build-it-yourself bumpers and such. Generally speaking bumpers (front and rear), sliders, and roof rack are all around $1k each so all four of those would be around $4k. Welder plus steel would save me dough but then I'm not sure if I'm looking at doing too much myself.
It’s brought me through the con and the armor did it’s job.
Don’t know why you want anything else heavier.
Don’t know why you want anything else heavier.
keep your eyes peeled for a 4X4Labs group buy. It seems like there is always one going. I think I ended up buying the front and basic rear kit in the group by for like 900 shipped. Pays to learn to weld and use build it kits, especially one from Luke. That’s really the best way to save money while still having some sick bumper, unless you have access to some plasma.
I built mine using 3/16 with 3/8 gussets. One thing to keep in mind... I rather repair a bumper than straighten a frame. 
Hornd
SILVER Star
Mines 3/16 which is about 5X thicker than factory bumper.
Was about $500 to my door, but you have to have a friend with a welder.
Northwest Trail Innovations
Was about $500 to my door, but you have to have a friend with a welder.
Northwest Trail Innovations
The center(winch) section on the bumper I designed and built is 3/8" and the sides are 1/8".
I'm working on a rear bumper now. Have friends w/ a fab shop and they laser cut this for me and bent it on a brake.
I'm working on a rear bumper now. Have friends w/ a fab shop and they laser cut this for me and bent it on a brake.
I put a thickness gauge on my 4x4 labs rear (still unwelded and a kit) and its 3/16 for the large shell piece, plus clever smaller pieces. Designed right 3/16 should be fine.
I endorse the above idea of buying a kit, especially the Labs kit.
I endorse the above idea of buying a kit, especially the Labs kit.
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Get the bigger welder. I was in your shoes about 15 years ago and made the mistake of thinking that the 115V welder would be happy and capable of being topped out for extended periods of time. It wasn't, and the welds were s***. Spend the $100 or so for an electrician to install the outlet in your garage (running the wire outside of the wall in a conduit is stupid cheap, meets code, and once painted to match the wall, is almost invisible) and spend the bucks on the bigger welder. You will be so happy you did.
*edit- and this may be contrary to what I just said, but if you're not going to be welding all day every day, consider Harbor Freight's Vulcan line of welders. They're getting good reviews as long as you don't plan on earning a living with them.
*edit- and this may be contrary to what I just said, but if you're not going to be welding all day every day, consider Harbor Freight's Vulcan line of welders. They're getting good reviews as long as you don't plan on earning a living with them.
3/16" is typical, wouldn't go thinner for sure. I make all my junk out of 1/4" just because.
I bought a Miller 110v mig first. I eventually upgraded to a Hobart 187 220v mig, and I am very happy I did. The 110v was at the limit of its capability all the time, and forget welding a recovery point or other heavy metal. I got a deal on the Hobart at around $550 over a decade ago, would recommend it, but you should probably look around, there may be other, better stuff out now. Look for deals, you may find a decent welder for close to what the light duty ones go for.
I bought a Miller 110v mig first. I eventually upgraded to a Hobart 187 220v mig, and I am very happy I did. The 110v was at the limit of its capability all the time, and forget welding a recovery point or other heavy metal. I got a deal on the Hobart at around $550 over a decade ago, would recommend it, but you should probably look around, there may be other, better stuff out now. Look for deals, you may find a decent welder for close to what the light duty ones go for.
inkpot
SILVER Star
fuzzy, do you even know how to weld? I would not take on serious armor as a learning process.
