started down a long rabbit hole today...t-case, clutch, flywheel, exhaust (1 Viewer)

[g-man]

Looks like I need to straighten it up.

 

[g-man]

Stupid fill plug hole. I have 3 good threads. And the plug I got from Wit's End has been working for now...but

 

[dogfishlake]

Time for a Wits End "stripped hole plug repair kit"!

@NLXTACY

 

[g-man]

Time for a Wits End "stripped hole plug repair kit"!

@NLXTACY

I have the drain plug from Wit's End. It is longer and reaches the three threads but I'd like to make this stronger now while the case is off. I'm thinking a NPT pipe plug. Maybe 3/4 ...drill it out, get a tap and put in the new plug.

 

[g-man]

like this...3/4" Carbon Steel NPT Tap and 59/64" HSS Drill Bit, Qualtech

and this...JEGS Performance Products 110434: Aluminum Pipe Plug 3/4 in. NPT | JEGS

 

[g-man]

i have tons of the oem plugs and the 10mm allen magnetic plugs on hand....
if i were you, i'd tap it out to a 1/2" pipe thread and run a pipe plug. simple fix and it'll work very well. sure, installing a time-sert would be a great fix as well but that's a lot more work and money.

hth

georg

found this gem of info from an earlier post. I forget NPT thread is much bigger than automotive .. so like above links but 1/2 inch NPT.

 

[orangefj45]

If the other threads give up the ghost ...... tap it out to a 1/2" pipe thread and you're all set. No drilling required.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers

 

[g-man]

Tap and drill ordered...here 1/2" Carbon Steel NPT Tap and 23/32" HSS Drill Bit, Qualtech

less than 20.00 shipped. and bought a plug and some copper washers at NAPA about $3.00 so that fits my budget. thanks @orangefj45

 

[g-man]

cleaned up the cross member need to paint it

 

[g-man]

some of the cross member bolts will need to be replaced. After scrubbing and wire brushing you can see the narrow necks. Not sure if this will show up in the pics.

 

[g-man]

Flywheel came back

 

[g-man]

These are the bolts on the outer edge of the cross member. They get a lot of road chemical and less grease from the leaking drivetrain to protect them. Seems they rust away between the head and the washer. I noticed some looked pretty rusty when I broke them loose. I wouldn't have noticed this if not for cleaning them.

 

[g-man]

I practiced installing the rear case without sealant. the FSM says to install the idler shaft rear o ring AFTER putting the rear case on. To do this you have to pull the idler shaft out of the front case. Then using a plastic hammer driving it in. George's method of having the idler shaft seated in the front case and installing the rear o-ring and sealant first seems more logical. My first attempt at doing it the FSM way was not good. The idler shaft got hung up at the front...and didn't want to seat. I ended up having to remove the idler gear to get the shaft positioned in the front case. I didn't practice this any more as I don't want to destroy my forward o-ring, and I wouldn't want to bend the forward thrust washer trying to beat this in if things were not exactly lined up.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

set the idler into the front hole but not seated. leave the o ring off of the back of the shaft. put the case half on and after getting the hi-lo shifter lined up and a couple bolts into the case, put the oring on the stub of the idler shaft sticking past the case, then coat with rtv and drive it home.

 

[orangefj45]

This should tell you everything you need to know about split case rebuilds.
If you need more help, feel free to contact me.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers

 

[g-man]

set the idler into the front hole but not seated. leave the o ring off of the back of the shaft. put the case half on and after getting the hi-lo shifter lined up and a couple bolts into the case, put the oring on the stub of the idler shaft sticking past the case, then coat with rtv and drive it home.

What you are saying is what the FSM says to do. I tried it ..a practice run, without the split case gasket and sealant. I did have the hi/low shifter in the correct spot but the idler shaft didn't want to go down (maybe I pulled it up a bit too far) and I didn't want to hit it any harder and beat or bend the thrust washer under the idler gear or cut the o-ring that has to go in the front case. I like George's method...at the end of the video.

 

[g-man]

Tap and drill ordered...here 1/2" Carbon Steel NPT Tap and 23/32" HSS Drill Bit, Qualtech

less than 20.00 shipped. and bought a plug and some copper washers at NAPA about $3.00 so that fits my budget. thanks @orangefj45

I'm hoping the taper on the tap will fit the hole w/out drilling. I can see a problem with the drill bit grabbing and pulling itself down the hole and possibly cracking the case. If I have to drill I will put on a drill press and use some wetting agent and go slow.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

Tap without drilling. And yeah, Georg has better tech...

 

[orangefj45]

If you use the 1/2" pipe tap then you don't need to drill the fill plug hole first.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers

 

[g-man]

Not much going on. Waiting for the 1/2 tap to arrive. Painted the cross member, the clutch housing inspection plate, the companion flanges for the output shafts, and the cover for the rear of the transmission shaft. Cleaned all the hardware. Bought another exhaust gasket and some copper rtv. The book said to pull the exhaust loose...so I did, but looks like the trans would get past it. Clutch and flywheel are back on. Greased the throwout bearing and the fork and installed. The manual says to put the throw out bearing on the input shaft to the trans. but seems like it would be easier to install it on the fork in the clutch housing and slide the input shaft thru it. Otherwise you'd need some really small hands to get up in there and put the wire clips back on the fork/throw out bearing.