Lurching into Drive, and "warm up" time (1 Viewer)

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zmf

Joined
Jul 12, 2017
Threads
5
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33
Location
Boston, MA
hey guys,

Still only 7 months into owning my 2014 LC, so I'm learning more every day, and have two questions for you.

First, how long do you let it run after you start, before you put it in D (or R)? On my old car, it would rev high for 10-30 seconds and then drop to idle, and I knew I could shift then and it would be fine. In the LC, it sounds like the fan runs real high for a few seconds. I usually put it in gear after that, however....

Second, once it started getting cold, it will occasionally lurch into gear. Sometimes not at all, sometimes really violently - even with the foot firmly on the brake, the whole truck will noticeably move. These lurches are accompanied by an engine rpm spike. The problem is, it doesn't always happen, it's only on cold starts, and it doesn't seem to matter how long I let it run before shifting. It also doesn't matter how fast I move the shifter (I thought it might, for some reason).

Any thoughts? I don't want to wait for warmer weather for it to go away (assuming it would).
 
Common observation. Mine does the same thing.
 
Same here. I do wait for about 10 seconds before shifting when it’s cold. These 5.7L engines have a bunch (technical term there) of torque at high idle and that can cause the lurch. But, no harm no foul, so play on.
 
Same here. Seems to be normal.
 
Perfectly normal. my Tundra did the same thing.
 
Yup, cold start high idle. The 5.7 makes a good bit or torque even at low revs, and you'll feel it when holding her back.

The colder it is, the longer before idle settles down. You could wait until then, perhaps using remote start if you have it. But it wont' hurt a thing if you don't.
 
Try holding down the foot brake more firmly. Most people are not reacting to the harder cold shift but to the lurch of the vehicle. The clutches in the transmission are set the way Toyota thinks a proper LC should be set. It is reflected in the creep characteristic which I personally dislike but I understand why. There are many alternative solutions employed by different marques for creep. Toyota will implement one eventually. Meanwhile, just press harder on the left pedal.
 
When cold, shift into neutral first and then wait a moment or two before you shift into D. This seems to help my ‘10 shift smoother when cold.
 
When cold, shift into neutral first and then wait a moment or two before you shift into D. This seems to help my ‘10 shift smoother when cold.

^^^^^ THIS!

Evidently trans fluid circulates through more of the tranny when in Neutral than when in Park - resulting in faster warm-up of the fluid.

Good advice!
 
This is sound advice. The problem exist when you have to reverse first.
 
Thanks guys - it's weird, but I guess somewhat comforting that it happens to everyone. It didn't happen this morning, and I think I've tried the neutral first thing, but I'll try it next time. I think it didn't matter since I had to go through reverse to get there. I'll note again that it revs up from normal idle when this happens, which is the part I find so strange. I'm not hitting the gas at all.

-Z
 
I'm sure the torque converter stall speed also plays a part as the vehicle is designed to be able to tow and not have slippage in the transmission. It's like a 70's muscle car...
 
For me it seems to be a lag between idle air increase and gear engagement. The idle speed is increased in anticipation of the load from the torque converter. If I'm codl start idling in D or N it will be around 1,000 RPM. Shift into D or R and it flares to 1,500 prior to the gear change. The energy has to go somewhere and so when D engages the rotational inertia translates into the lurch. My assumption was that it was cold fluid not responding quickly to the solenoid opening.
 

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