Nice, that's a great update. Within the last year I've changed just about everything on my front end (suspension, sway, steering, brakes) and it feels so good now. Absolutely worth it, considering we're nearing 20 years of age.
Builds My GCC Spec 1HD-FTE Converted FZJ100 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter gnarlynick2072
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- Thread starter
- #62
Update
Still pulling things apart on the truck. Removed the radiator, battery, alternator, coil pack bank and steering rack.
Definitely worth removing everthing as there is so much room to work with now to remove the crank bolt so I can fix the oil pump leak. There also seems to be a small leak at the crank seal so doing that as well. Unfortunately the harnesses on this truck have been problematic. The heat has made the plastic brittle and I have been breaking harnesses. The alternator harness completely disintegrated and the coil pack harness broke as well. Argh!
Good thing I have the part numbers for these...
Alternator connector: 90980–11349
Coil pack distributor connector: 90980-11150
Also, got the new power steering pump installed! Got the surface all cleaned up to make sure I had no leaks. Put a new o-ring on the new pump and went in no problem. Certainly easy to install without a radiator and alternator in there! Also, without any suspension or steering components there's tons of room to get my hands in there to clean it up.
Still pulling things apart on the truck. Removed the radiator, battery, alternator, coil pack bank and steering rack.
Definitely worth removing everthing as there is so much room to work with now to remove the crank bolt so I can fix the oil pump leak. There also seems to be a small leak at the crank seal so doing that as well. Unfortunately the harnesses on this truck have been problematic. The heat has made the plastic brittle and I have been breaking harnesses. The alternator harness completely disintegrated and the coil pack harness broke as well. Argh!
Good thing I have the part numbers for these...
Alternator connector: 90980–11349
Coil pack distributor connector: 90980-11150
Also, got the new power steering pump installed! Got the surface all cleaned up to make sure I had no leaks. Put a new o-ring on the new pump and went in no problem. Certainly easy to install without a radiator and alternator in there! Also, without any suspension or steering components there's tons of room to get my hands in there to clean it up.
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Dang you're gettin after it! Not a better way to learn every part of it though! I was actually wondering about wire harnesses recently. if the ends of them break, do you just use the old wires and put a new end on? Or do the wires themselves degrade as well?
- Thread starter
- #64
It's actually so much easier doing this project this way. I am really happy I decided to do a full teardown. I have found a lot more things I want to change the farther in I go.
So for broken harnesses, I have been taking pictures of the profile of the broken harness in question (if possible lol) and then going into the Toyota Wire Harness manual and matching the harness. Most are available from partsouq/amayama. And yes, you can certainly re-use the wires! Just make sure to double check that the wires are going back into the correct location. Again, lots of pics. I have a harness de-pinning tool in my arsenal and these work great to remove the pins.
Also when using the manual, when referencing male or female, remember it's the pins that determines that, not the connector. The connector may be technically "male" but the pins may be female.
- Thread starter
- #65
Here's the new pump installed. Wanted to get this done before scrubbing off all the oil/dirt/grime from the timing cover.
Loads of room! Time to tackle the crank bolt... I'm hoping that I won't need to use the bump start method.
Loads of room! Time to tackle the crank bolt... I'm hoping that I won't need to use the bump start method.
- Thread starter
- #66
Well I'm back in Saudi Arabia for Christmas.
Kind of ironic that my Saudi cruiser is freezing away in Calgary while I'm back in the desert enjoying the weather.
Some news, my folks inherited an FZJ100 from a family friend that tragically passed away. He loved his 4wds and we want it to go to a good home to honour his memory. At some point I'll put it up in the 100 series classifieds for sale, but if anyone is interested in it let me know! 300,000km but lots of stuff has been replaced and long range sub tank to boot. 1999 model.
Kind of ironic that my Saudi cruiser is freezing away in Calgary while I'm back in the desert enjoying the weather.
Some news, my folks inherited an FZJ100 from a family friend that tragically passed away. He loved his 4wds and we want it to go to a good home to honour his memory. At some point I'll put it up in the 100 series classifieds for sale, but if anyone is interested in it let me know! 300,000km but lots of stuff has been replaced and long range sub tank to boot. 1999 model.
I bet you could sell some of those tailgates and tire carriers....
- Thread starter
- #68
Did some shopping this week!
Went to a Toyota parts distributor in Thuqbah called Abu Mazin. Their prices were very close to Partsouq so I bought everything they had in stock that I had on my wish list for the overhaul!
Went to a Toyota parts distributor in Thuqbah called Abu Mazin. Their prices were very close to Partsouq so I bought everything they had in stock that I had on my wish list for the overhaul!
- Thread starter
- #70
Back in Canada! And back to work.
Finally made some progress and starting to put things back together.
With the rad out, I wanted to tackle the oil pump gasket and crank seal. Which means removing the crank bolt. I jacked up the pressure on my compressor and it wasn't enough to budge the bolt with my impact.
So to ensure sufficient CFMs going through the gun I borrowed my buddy's compressor and teed the air lines together. Worked AMAZING. Removed the bolt instantly at the same pressure as before. Just some advice, best way to get your impact to work on tough bolts is to make sure you optimize your air flow rates.
Removed the oil pump and old crank seal. Cleaned up as much of the oil/sand mixture on the motor as I could. I sure was caked on there!
Oil pump re installed with new gasket and bolts
Then got the seal and crank back on. I found it difficult getting the key back snug on the crank enough to get the pulley back on. But I got it. Next step is to borrow a torque wrench that goes up to 305 ft-lbs!
Finally made some progress and starting to put things back together.
With the rad out, I wanted to tackle the oil pump gasket and crank seal. Which means removing the crank bolt. I jacked up the pressure on my compressor and it wasn't enough to budge the bolt with my impact.
So to ensure sufficient CFMs going through the gun I borrowed my buddy's compressor and teed the air lines together. Worked AMAZING. Removed the bolt instantly at the same pressure as before. Just some advice, best way to get your impact to work on tough bolts is to make sure you optimize your air flow rates.
Removed the oil pump and old crank seal. Cleaned up as much of the oil/sand mixture on the motor as I could. I sure was caked on there!
Oil pump re installed with new gasket and bolts
Then got the seal and crank back on. I found it difficult getting the key back snug on the crank enough to get the pulley back on. But I got it. Next step is to borrow a torque wrench that goes up to 305 ft-lbs!
What's with the Phillips screws? Those OG?
- Thread starter
- #72
Yup the Phillips are OEM. I'm assuming they're JIS but I could be wrong.
What's this?
Cruise control.
Looks like the GCC spec trucks get something a little different from ours..
Looks like the GCC spec trucks get something a little different from ours..
Aftermarket cruise control unit.
- Thread starter
- #76
Yup, it's an aftermarket jobber cruiser control. A bit of a sloppy install. I deleted it when I was there as it looked messy. Ripped out all that wiring.
- Thread starter
- #77
Made a big order from Partsouq! While waiting for my stuff I have been removing all the coolant lines to the heater core and idle control valve.
Since I had to pull the intake manifold anyways I decided to do some fuel work. And it's a good thing I decided to as the injector seals seem to be crusty and not totally sealed. I can see some leaking of some sort from the injector seals and I can spin them by hand no problem.
I think one of the issues contributing to this is that none of the clips for the wiring loom that contains the injector signal wires are attached. The loom is just hanging and it's also stressing the injector seals. No wonder. Damn 3rd world mechanics....
I think these just need zip ties.
Since I had to pull the intake manifold anyways I decided to do some fuel work. And it's a good thing I decided to as the injector seals seem to be crusty and not totally sealed. I can see some leaking of some sort from the injector seals and I can spin them by hand no problem.
I think one of the issues contributing to this is that none of the clips for the wiring loom that contains the injector signal wires are attached. The loom is just hanging and it's also stressing the injector seals. No wonder. Damn 3rd world mechanics....
I think these just need zip ties.
- Thread starter
- #78
Checked valve clearances over the weekend. All valve were perfectly in the middle of the spec range. Phew!
Working on replacing spark plug seals. They were toast. Completely dry and cracking. A huge pain to scrape pieces of the old gaskets off the valve cover that's for sure.
Working on replacing spark plug seals. They were toast. Completely dry and cracking. A huge pain to scrape pieces of the old gaskets off the valve cover that's for sure.
- Thread starter
- #79
Lots of progress lately!
Replaced spark plug gaskets, old ones were absolutely toast.
Removed the manifold as well to replace the gasket.
Replacing as much stuff as I can as I go along here, coolant hoses, o rings of various types etc... it's nice that this version of 1FZ does not have a PHH.
Cleaned up the lower manifold and put in new injector insulators. The old ones were unreal toast. They cracked in half when removing from the injectors!
Replaced spark plug gaskets, old ones were absolutely toast.
Removed the manifold as well to replace the gasket.
Replacing as much stuff as I can as I go along here, coolant hoses, o rings of various types etc... it's nice that this version of 1FZ does not have a PHH.
Cleaned up the lower manifold and put in new injector insulators. The old ones were unreal toast. They cracked in half when removing from the injectors!
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- Thread starter
- #80
I sent in my injectors for flow testing and had one come back with a bad spray pattern. Argh! Had to buy a new one from Partsouq. On the bright side, all flow testing was perfectly in spec aside from the one bad one.
These bad boys are also different from the 80 series counterpart as they are 4 hole, not 2 hole type injectors.
Here's the new one that arrived.
And all put together with new regulator and fuel dampner!
These bad boys are also different from the 80 series counterpart as they are 4 hole, not 2 hole type injectors.
Here's the new one that arrived.
And all put together with new regulator and fuel dampner!
