FJ62 Fuel Leak (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

you might need to pull the plenum to make it easier. maybe not. I still need to do this procedure on mine. I got the injectors cleaned and all the other parts back in summer but didn't finish ordering spacers and gaskets for the job till just this morning. Part of me is kicking myself for letting the cleaned injectors sit for 4 months, but on the other hand, by jumping the gub, I think I got the last fuel pressure regulator on earth. The "where'd they go?" threads picked up the week after UPS got here. if you decide to pull the plenum, make sure to get the gasket, and maybe a couple copper washers for the other hard lines that would have to be undone to get the upper plenum free from the lower...hth
 
Thought I would put this here, in case in anyone else has this issue and doesn't read through EVERYTHING! Also a good thread on the subject What the deuce is this thing?

Kynot62 said:
Since no one wants to let this thread die here's my 2 cents. Mine gave up the ghost and on a 3FE it also leaks right on the exhaust after it puddles up on the cylinder head.

They are not expensive. My local auto parts store got mine for about $25. No screw it has a rivet.

As for the magic tool to change it, it's called a crows foot and it goes on your ratchet. No diassembly of your engine required. My metrics didn't go large enough so I used either a 13/16 or 7/8 I don't remember which. If you don't know what a crows foot is, it is the business end of an open end wrench with a square hole for your ratchet, you have to use an extension by the way.

I can't testify to the magic screw theory as nothing changed on mine from screw in to missing screw to leaking to new dampener. The only thing to change was the fuel leak was now fixed.

Tony
Click to expand...
 
That is the second mention of using a 7/8 wrench. So that would mean the correct crowsfoot would be 22mm?
 
might have to make it skinnier, too...
 
Yes. The crows foot was too thick! I bought a set thinking I was ahead of the game. Even after cutting the crows foot to “open end” status, I ended up going with the Harbor Freight wrench “modification”.
 
The thickness of the crows foot was to much to fit under the dampener and on top of the fuel rail. Like a double stuffed Oreo. The modified wrench was thinner, like a regular Oreo, and it worked. I had to cut off and discard the boxed end of the wrench, and used a MAPP gas torch to put some bend on the open end to give a little more throw in there against the fire wall. It’s tight, but it can be done! I was laying across the drivers side engine compartment, with a step stool under my feet. I hope this helps.
 
FIN:
To put a bow on this thread:

1. It was the pulsation damper leaking. (thanks @mwebfj60 )
2. A new damper and gaskets fixed it. (thanks @LAMBCRUSHER )
3. This crowfoot wrench fits on http://a.co/58cB5m2 makes the job a 10 minute-er.

Thanks everyone for all the help! Best community ever here!
 
landscrambler said:
FIN:
To put a bow on this thread:

1. It was the pulsation damper leaking. (thanks @mwebfj60 )
2. A new damper and gaskets fixed it. (thanks @LAMBCRUSHER )
3. This crowfoot wrench fits on http://a.co/58cB5m2 makes the job a 10 minute-er.

Thanks everyone for all the help! Best community ever here!
Click to expand...
Good stuff. Thanks for the heads up on the crows foot.
 
I know this is an extremely old post but how were you able to use a crow foot? By that I mean using that crows foot and an extension was it a little easier or did you have to give it all kinds of torque to remove? That thing is in a real bad spot.
 
Yup. That’s why I butchered a 7/8” combo wrench to make a tool for the job. In ANY other rig, or spot, the crows foot would work! But not the olde sixty two!
 
Reviving this thread because I’m stuck. I bought the part recommended in this thread 23207-46010 & 22m wrench fits it. And it’s the correct part.

But, i go to take old one off and 22m wrench was too small, it’s a 7/8 wrench and it’s on very tight and part is labeled 23270-73010.

So my question... does that mean the part in there has a wider thread going in to the fuel rail and someone put the wrong part on?

If I get it to budge and come out will the whole be messed up from a wider bolt and unable to take the correct part?

My guess is since you guys also used a 7/8 wrench and your old one had a black cap maybe it was the same one in there as mine?
 
I think the threaded part of the part should be the same between the two parts...follow?
I think it’s a difference in manufacturing that makes one a 22mm and one a 7/8” nut thingie.
Man...I need some coffee.

I hope that made sense. 🤪
 
Update: yes the threads are the same. Finally managed to break that bastard loose and got the new one in. Haven’t finished up yet but the threads are the same so my main concern is alleviated. Thanks all!
 
I had the same issue as you did, but couldn't find the source of the problem until the leak became so bad that I couldn't get my '88 to start at all. At that point it was very easy to find the problem location.
 
Mine just blew with a hiss and spewed gas all over right as I was putting it in the garage (lucky). After reading this thread I have a pretty good idea of what I need to do, so thank you.

I could feel and hear the pulsation in the fuel lines and injector rail. It was noisier than the injectors clicking. Is this normal on a 3fe? I'm replacing the regulator at the same time just in case. This would have been pretty devistating if it happened anywhere else.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Beehanger
Carb leaking fuel
2
Replies
28
Views
2K
Beehanger
Beehanger
pavementfan60
Driveshaft leak?
Replies
3
Views
313
3_puppies
3
A
Help needed with FJ62 fuel line & vapor collection lines
Replies
5
Views
670
cruisermatt
cruisermatt
Beehanger
Carb leaking Fuel
Replies
13
Views
2K
kirvesmies
K

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom