I had some issues in the snow this weekend, so I want to get some tires that are more aggressive for my '93. Right now it has 285's. My thought was to get a spare set of wheels and tires so I can keep what I have for my DD use. Anyone have an idea what a good price is on wheels? There is a set of 5 near me with 235 radials on them for $400. The tires aren't worth much to me, other than to be a backup set down the road. Is this a good deal, or should I keep looking? Thanks
Wheels and tires for a '93 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter fiskenmorder
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You can buy new steel Tacoma wheels for under $100 each. If you're looking for just some wheels to put some tires on there are plenty of simple steel wheels sub $100/each. If however you're looking for a set of tires and wheels to run...235 is awefully small. Stock is 275 I believe. If you need tires for the snow and Ice, I would consider buying the proper set and running them until you have to switch over by law, then having your original tires remounted.
On your 93 you'll need to run at least a 16 inch rim to clear the disk brake calipers. If you buy a used set of 16 inch factory Aluminum rims off of a 93, to 94 land cruiser they use a cone style lug nut. The 95 to 97 land cruiser & Lexus 16 inch Aluminum rim uses a different style of lug nut, they use a shank type of lug nut. As an FYI, cone and shank style lug nuts are not interchangeable between the different rims. So if you buy a used set of rims off of a 95, to 97, for use on your 93, make sure you grab the lug nuts too, because they cost about $4.50 a piece from the dealership.
17" Current 4Runner Spare wheel is an excellent match and will fit a lot of different size tires. It is stronger than the Tacoma and FJ steel wheels and less expensive at the dealer. I've also had luck asking the dealer if they have a set of take-offs from a customer who wanted to upgrade. Occasionally they have these sitting around and are willing to let them go cheap since they are really just scrapped normally anyway.
Safety note:
You have acorn lug nuts on the '93. Be aware of other wheels that do not have acorn lug nuts.
if you buy wheels outside of '93 you must follow this process (I learned from @inkpot and @toolsrus)
1. make sure you put three (3) acorn lug nuts on the wheel and tighten to center the wheel while tires are off the ground.
2. put three (3) of the new nuts on the remaining lugs.
3. remove the three (3) acorn lug nuts
4. put the remaining three (3) new nuts on and torque to specifications.
5. lower vehicle and check torque again.
I believe the torque for our '93 with acorn lug nuts is around 108lbs? and the torque for other LC without acorn lug nuts is around 76lbs? Someone should double check me on this.
Zona
You have acorn lug nuts on the '93. Be aware of other wheels that do not have acorn lug nuts.
if you buy wheels outside of '93 you must follow this process (I learned from @inkpot and @toolsrus)
1. make sure you put three (3) acorn lug nuts on the wheel and tighten to center the wheel while tires are off the ground.
2. put three (3) of the new nuts on the remaining lugs.
3. remove the three (3) acorn lug nuts
4. put the remaining three (3) new nuts on and torque to specifications.
5. lower vehicle and check torque again.
I believe the torque for our '93 with acorn lug nuts is around 108lbs? and the torque for other LC without acorn lug nuts is around 76lbs? Someone should double check me on this.
Zona
As for tires, I put a set of 285/75r16 Yokohama Geolandar I/T's on this winter, and really like them. They are very sure footed on the snow and ice.
There's a company on eBay that sells refurbished spare (steel) wheels off of various Toyota models for around $50 each. Reviews say that they appear to be new take-offs.
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- #9
I thought 235 sounded small as well. It's possible it is a typo.
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- #10
I have heard this. If the lug nuts are not present, how can you tell? Do they look different otherwise?
Easy, pick up some BFG All Terrain KO2's in the 285/75/16 size. Snowflake rated and you can run them all year long. I use mine in the snow all the time and they work great.
I lived in Seattle for a long time before moving down to Oregon and even with the best snow tire setup the city is a cluster#*#% when it snows. Very hilly and nobody knows what they are doing.
I lived in Seattle for a long time before moving down to Oregon and even with the best snow tire setup the city is a cluster#*#% when it snows. Very hilly and nobody knows what they are doing.
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- #12
There is a story on the front page of this site about Geolander M/T's. How do they differ from the I/T's? When you say they were surefooted in snow and ice, do you mean around town, or heavy snow up in the woods? Her in the PNW snow gets really slick and icy the longer it sits a freezes/refreezes. It isn't soft and powdery
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- #13
Thanks for the info!!!
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- #14
I'm good in the city, it's up in the hills where I need help. I went to my friend's place up outside of Tonasket this weekend. There was about 10" of snow that was layered from several different snows. when I got stuck the rear end slid out quickly, and I wasn't romping on it. When I backed down, the front end slid out and off the road a bit. Granted. it was a narrow road with a crummy slant to it, but I think there are tires out there that would have done better in it
Confirmed the acorn nuts on a 93' and 94' are 108 ft/lb (the owners manual has this detail). As an FYI some tire shops still only torque these to 80 ft/lb since thats what they have in the computer.
With 10" of snow be sure to engage the CDL if you have the switch. Another option is to air the tires down.
If you are light/empty in the rear it will walk around a bit. I drive through 10" of snow fairly often and usually just drop it into 4 low since im going slow enough.
fiskenmorder here are two photos to show you what the different lugs look like. The wheel that used the shank style lug nut has a flat spot machined into the rim for the flat washer part to set in, and the shank part fits down inside the hole that the stud passes through to center up the rim. These lugs are used on what's called a hub centric rim, what that means is the hub center the rim, not the lug nuts.
Shank style lug nuts.
The wheel that uses the cone style lug nut has a 60 degree cone machined into the rim, the cone on the lug nut sets in that machined cone to center up the rim. These lugs are used on what's called a lug centric rim, the lugs center the rim, not the hub.
Cone style lug nut
Shank style lug nuts.
The wheel that uses the cone style lug nut has a 60 degree cone machined into the rim, the cone on the lug nut sets in that machined cone to center up the rim. These lugs are used on what's called a lug centric rim, the lugs center the rim, not the hub.
Cone style lug nut
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The I/T's are more of a street, dirt road, packed snow type of tire. The blocks are a lot smaller than a M/T tire with way more sipes. They look more like an A/T. These tires have done well for me in snow up to a foot or so deep. I live in Portland, ME where we get a lot of snow and ice. If I was only using my rig to break trail out in the super deep stuff, I'd probably try an M/T style of tire.
For comparison, I had Duratracs before, and hated them on ice and snow. The truck was very skittish with poor stopping ability. I also ran Yokohama Y742S's on my '76 Wagoneer with great success, and my '67 M715 currently has Super Swampers on it. My Silverado has Firestone WinterForce tires which are similar to the I/T's. I guess what I'm trying to say is that I've used a wide variety of tread patterns, and have found the A/T style of winter tire to work the best for around New England.
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- #19
Mine has the front and rear locker switch. In this instance with a narrow road I thought the locker would drag side/side even more.
Is the center locker a different switch?
Once I got it dug out, I had a lot more success with it for the rest of the weekend. I think a lot of it had to do with getting to know the rig. Still, if you have any suggestions, I am all ears. From what I gather there are years when there is a lot more snow up there, and we plan on making this an annual event
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- #20
Thanks a bunch!!! That helps a lot. Now I can go looking with some education.fiskenmorder here are two photos to show you what the different lugs look like. The wheel that used the shank style lug nut has a flat spot machined into the rim for the flat washer part to set in, and the shank part fits down inside the hole that the stud passes through to center up the rim.
Shank style lug nuts.
The wheel that uses the cone style lug nut has a 60 degree cone machined into the rim, the cone on the lug nut sets in that machined cone to center up the rim.
Cone style lug nut
