Builds Joined the 40 club! 1970 FJ40 Frame off build... (1 Viewer)

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So the 60 series knuckles I got came without calipers but had these bolts in the ears:




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Are any of these OEM/original so I know which ones to buy?

I checked that all the knuckle ears and caliper flanges are the same width, so it seems the bolts should be the same length.
 
Spindle rust:

I really hate to paint over plated metal but it seems there is no option here unless I get them re-plated.

I intend to mask off the spindle and just blast and paint the bolting flange to get rid of/stop the rust.



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Before sand blasting the spindles, there are several rust removal steps here on Mud. There is one from Coolerman, here is the link: Rust Removal

There are also sonic tank rust removal steps - which I have tried with success - that work too.

Getting a sand blaster nozzle in there for any length of time to remove the rust could cause an issue. Sand Blow-by to the bearing or seal surfaces might be an adverse impact.

Lake
 
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Before sand blasting the spindles, there are several rust removal steps here on Mud. There is one from Coolerman, here is the link: Rust Removal

There are also sonic tank rust removal steps - which I have tried with success - that work too.

Getting a sand blaster nozzle in there for any length of time to remove the rust could cause an issue. Sand Blow-by to the bearing or seal surfaces might be an adverse impact.

Lake

Lake,

Thanks for the tips. I will take a look. I have seen Coolerman's site, very helpful!

What you say makes sense, although I would do a thorough washing/cleaning before assembly there might be an issue if I slip and blast the brass bushing.

If it wasn't so bad I would just buff and polish, but the plating is gone.
 
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Putting things back together came to a crawl because I decided to take a bunch of hardware to get cadmium plated. Talk about a weird apprehensive feeling, opening 70+ organized baggies of nuts/bolts/parts and dumping into a box to get shipped away.



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Of course I blasted them all first:


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I took pictures of each as i did so hopefully it will be easy to sort when it all comes back.

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Cleaning out the steering box was second (in terms of mess) to cleaning out a knuckle...



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I noticed this damage on the sector bearing seat. Is this cause for concern? The bearing rolls smooth and freely.




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And I am pretty sure I lost this gasket shim, I could be in trouble as I believe they are NLA:


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Cleaning out the steering box was second (in terms of mess) to cleaning out a knuckle...



View attachment 1631586




I noticed this damage on the sector bearing seat. Is this cause for concern? The bearing rolls smooth and freely.




View attachment 1631588


And I am pretty sure I lost this gasket shim, I could be in trouble as I believe they are NLA:


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1. Yes, that sector roller is toast. I can replace it during a rebuild.

2. The gaskets ARE the shims. Don’t damage that gasket!
 
1. Yes, that sector roller is toast. I can replace it during a rebuild.

2. The gaskets ARE the shims. Don’t damage that gasket!


Sounds good Mark. I will get it on it's way. I assume the whole steering column goes with since the worm gear is integrated?

I will have to go dig through the garbage pile but I can't find that gasket anywhere!
 
As I said on the phone yesterday, aim for arrival to me on or after the 23rd.
 
Just FYI for other newbs like me - seasoned mechanics probably already know...

I went to install the new bearing races into the 3rd members and noticed they were way taller than what I had pulled out.

Inside race: Old = .0663 - New .0785
Outside race: Old = .055 - New .0628


Old inside race:


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New inside race:



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My first thought was that they were incorrect as that would push the pinion way too far into the ring gear. But all the part numbers matched up.

But it turns out it's the overall measurement of race and bearing together that matters - they both equal 1" when nested despite the different height raceways.



Old:


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New:


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Everything is good! Thanks Kurt for walking me through it!
 
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