timing chain cover gasket and oil pump cover (1 Viewer)

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1996 land cruiser did the new head gasket, looking for oil leak while we have it apart. Is the oil pump cover part of the timing cover. We cannot get those screws out on the oil pump cover (I replaced the seal a few years ago). But while looking at it we found a leak in what looks like part of the timing chain cover right above where the oil pump cover is. I can clearly see some gasket maker material on the seal for the cover that the oil pump connects to. So is that part of the timing chain cover. I have searched for pictures but cannot find any. Any pictures of videos of replacing the timing chain, actually only care about the cover and the seals. Just want to know what we are working on before we start unbolting all the bolts.
 
1996 land cruiser did the new head gasket, looking for oil leak while we have it apart. Is the oil pump cover part of the timing cover. We cannot get those screws out on the oil pump cover (I replaced the seal a few years ago). But while looking at it we found a leak in what looks like part of the timing chain cover right above where the oil pump cover is. I can clearly see some gasket maker material on the seal for the cover that the oil pump connects to. So is that part of the timing chain cover. I have searched for pictures but cannot find any. Any pictures of videos of replacing the timing chain, actually only care about the cover and the seals. Just want to know what we are working on before we start unbolting all the bolts.
 
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Best I can do was laying on the floor
 
Pull the crank pulley off get a number 3 bit keep good pressure and undo the screws , place seal tighten back up. I use a 3/8 impact hand held electric gun with bit in it to remove the screws. Replace crank pulley seal also
 
Pull the crank pulley off get a number 3 bit keep good pressure and undo the screws , place seal tighten back up. I use a 3/8 impact hand held electric gun with bit in it to remove the screws. Replace crank pulley seal also

If that fails to remove a screw, just drill the head off of the screw. I've done a few. So far, every one of them has come out easy with a pair of pliers once the cover is off.
 
When i did mine ( number 3 and impact) it helped to push really hard on the impact ,strongest setting, and then i just cracked the trigger ultra fast and let go the trigger right away..
This way stripping was kept to practically nill. Pb b4 that a'course. YMMV
 
Thanks, after more research it sounds like a crazy amount of work to replace that gasket. decided we will clean the leak area real real good and force gasket maker in there and hope for the best.
Oh cmon man, Im literally doing exactly this repair in my backyard in the winter in boston. just do it. the video I posted shows exactly how. Im not having the ONE leak on my rig to continue. its a Cheap fix
 
A quart of cheap 5w30 oil costs about the same as the 15188-66020.

If he wants to just let it go, then so be it and he can carry a quart of oil around and fill up as needed.
 
Screws take a # 3 'JIS', not a standard 'phillips'.

IF you choose to use a phillips...grind the tip off of it so it fits deeply into the slots. Use a small hammer to tap it into place...so it fits snugly. The use of a small cordless impact drill really helps.

Have NEW screws on hand to replace the old. Hopefully you won't strip any of the heads.
 
Well i bet you could get some genuine Toyota oil from Beno anyway..haha:cigar:
 
Have NEW screws on hand to replace the old.
I'd add to this suggestion, instead of using Philips head screws again, I'd take the extra time to find a set of stainless steel Allen head screws. If you ever have to do this job again, you'll be glad you went with the Allen heads, there way easier to remove.
 
I was not talking about the oil pump cover, that is where we though but while trying to get he screws out it turns out leak was coming from timing chain cover, and we had already bolted the head, exhaust, intake etc all back on. No way after all that work were we going to start to remove it all to get the head back off, or go through the nightmare of pulling the oil pan and jacking the engine up. My son needed his car driveable again, so we cleaned and sealed that area from the outside and will hope for the bet.

Found this image, here is where we found it actually leaking from. Had I known this before the head went back on I would have fixed it.

oilliak.jpg
 
FWIW I found this same leak (in the bend or corner as circled in red above) on two FZJ80's. Cleaned that area off completely, used a small tool to remove any crud stuck in a small ?pry slot, cleaned it a dozen times, then when dry stuffed fingerfulls of Permatex Ultra Grey into the slot and the leak stopped.

Been discussed before but you look at the backside of the timing chain cover in that corner there is an oil port and O-ring that goes between the cover and the engine block. For some reason IDK Toyota does not specify to use FIPG entirely around the area where that O-ring is located, so IMO when either the FIPG near that port leaks, or the O-ring itself leaks, then it dribbles out in that corner.

IDK what the long term results are, been only ?three years since I sealed
up that corner on both 80's but the by-the-book fix is probably to pull
the timing cover and replace the O-rings and apply new FIPG which I'm in no hurry to do as both oil pans have to come off and, by the book, the head should come off too but others have resealed the timing cover without removing the head. FWIW


Found it, here's a link to photos which are better than all the words:

 

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