Help! - Undercarriage inspection tips? (1 Viewer)

[HDJdreams]

I looked at a 2009 tonight. It’s from NJ. The interior was in fantastic shape, the outside paint looked fine as well as I could tell in the dark.

The undercarriage had been freshly undercoated. I was laying in a puddle, looking around with a flashlight the best I could at places that weren’t undercoated. It didn’t look bad overall.

I have read that the KDSS is especially susceptible to issues from rust. What specifically should I look for when evaluating whether to buy or not?

As to that particular TLC, other than unfamiliarity with KDSS, I think it was okay, but I’ll pass on it. It was $3500 above NADA and being from NJ and having fresh undercoating freaked me out.

I didn’t realize it until I pulled up, but it was the same dealership that I had seen a extremely rusty 100 at a couple of years ago that had also been freshly undercoated (as in the outer tube of shock was rusted through and other cancer I can’t specifically recall). Never going there again.

Anyway, is there a way to check if KDSS is too corroded? Any other especially sensitive areas to check?

 

[KLF]

Take a 3/8" ratchet wrench, 6" extension, and a 5mm hex drive bit, also a can of rust penetrant (Kroil or Rust Buster). Crawl under the truck on the drivers side about mid way between front and rear wheels. The valve is on the inside of the frame rail, covered by a sheet metal shield. But the shield has 2 holes in it that let you access the bleeder screws. Spray them with penetrant, then see if you can loosen them, but don't turn them out by more than about half a turn.

I was lucky when I was looking at mine, it was at a Rover dealership on Saturday, the shop was dead so they let me pull it into a bay and put it up on a lift. Gave me access to a tech and his box of tools. Both plugs popped right free very easily.

 

[indycole]

The only way to tell for sure is to open the shutter valves a bit, but it's very bad to open them so far that the screws come out.

I'd bring along a good 5mm hex wrench (t-handle would be nice) and try to open each valve no more than one turn. If the valves open then you should be in good shape. The KDSS valves are located on the driver side near the rear wheel. Find the forward-most RLCA mount and then look straight up toward the undercarriage a foot or so in front of the tire. You'll see the valve screws through a peephole.

 

[HDJdreams]

Thanks for the replies!

I saw the part inside the framerail with the sheet cover. I didn’t know what specifically were “the screws”. Next time I am under a 200, I’ll have a 5mm.

What are the two iron “bulbs” with lines going in and bolt coming out of the bottom that are on the outside of the framerail on drivers side?

Guess I also need to add HVAC door check to the list as well.

 

[TonyP]

Thanks for the replies!

I saw the part inside the framerail with the sheet cover. I didn’t know what specifically were “the screws”. Next time I am under a 200, I’ll have a 5mm.

What are the two iron “bulbs” with lines going in and bolt coming out of the bottom that are on the outside of the framerail on drivers side?

Guess I also need to add HVAC door check to the list as well.

I'm guessing this is an LX? That's the AHC.

 

[HDJdreams]

I'm guessing this is an LX? That's the AHC.

Definitely a Cruiser, bulb shaped chunks of iron on the outside of the frame rail.

 

[KLF]

Those are fluid reservoirs for the KDSS system.

 

[RS6tofj80]

the fact that its recently undercoated would scare me..... lot's of clean rigs out there that can help justify a good roadtrip.... !!

my buddy's 13' with the same miles as mine in Maine is a mess underneath compared ot a clean mall-rat Texas truck .... same price from the dealer but utterly diffrerent long term survival likely... he's already had to do his KDSS and swaybar mounts ...!

 

[Malleus]

x2. I wouldn't buy one that had undercoating (I just let my rear main do that)