Nostradamus
SILVER Star
Thanks for the info. One last dumb question and I'll quit hijacking your thread
What solution do you run in the cleaner?
Builds Meet Phoenix aka Zombie (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter mwebfj60
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What solution do you run in the cleaner?
- Thread starter
- #322
Right now, ZEP industrial degreaser...most of the time Simple Green it's a little milder.Thanks for the info. One last dumb question and I'll quit hijacking your thread
What solution do you run in the cleaner?
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- #323
Never heard of it
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- #324
Went about checking the 4wd VSVs as my plan is to get a stock gear set and keep the vacuum actuator for now. With a fresh rebuild, the TCase can be pulled back out easily and will only cost a couple gaskets and 3 nuts.
The red VSV (4wd disengage) was bad. I just happened to pull all the VSVs off an 80 at Pick n Pull last week and with a few changes it is a replacement.
Here's how it came off the 80
Had to move the filter and swap rubber bushing, do a little trimming on the mounting tab but now it operates as it should for the 62 and checks good.
The red VSV (4wd disengage) was bad. I just happened to pull all the VSVs off an 80 at Pick n Pull last week and with a few changes it is a replacement.
Here's how it came off the 80
Had to move the filter and swap rubber bushing, do a little trimming on the mounting tab but now it operates as it should for the 62 and checks good.
- Thread starter
- #325
Key in 'On' position, 4wd select switch in 2wd--
Red VSV 12v, Blue VSV 0V
Key in 'On' position, 4wd select switch to 4wd--
Red VSV 0V, Blue VSV 12 V
Explains why the red VSV (disengage 4wd) is the one that fails, it's always on unless in 4WD.
An interesting note on the actuator design, the diaghragm is designed to be at rest (default) in the 4wd engaged position. As long as your vacuum lines are correct, if either VSV fails, you should end up in 4wd. Puts my fears of the vacuum system a little at ease.
And if you're switching vacuum lines to check actuator operation because you're stuck in 4wd, the 4wd selector needs to be in 4wd (should take it back to 2wd and indicator light should go off)...or...if you're just trying to get home in 2wd, take the line off the red VSV that goes to the actuator and plum it straight into the manifold, there's enough line there if you rearrange them.
Red VSV 12v, Blue VSV 0V
Key in 'On' position, 4wd select switch to 4wd--
Red VSV 0V, Blue VSV 12 V
Explains why the red VSV (disengage 4wd) is the one that fails, it's always on unless in 4WD.
An interesting note on the actuator design, the diaghragm is designed to be at rest (default) in the 4wd engaged position. As long as your vacuum lines are correct, if either VSV fails, you should end up in 4wd. Puts my fears of the vacuum system a little at ease.
And if you're switching vacuum lines to check actuator operation because you're stuck in 4wd, the 4wd selector needs to be in 4wd (should take it back to 2wd and indicator light should go off)...or...if you're just trying to get home in 2wd, take the line off the red VSV that goes to the actuator and plum it straight into the manifold, there's enough line there if you rearrange them.
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- Thread starter
- #326
VSV check
Coleman fuel/Naptha is called white gasoline in some parts of the world.
It's probably suggested due to its quick evaporating characteristics. I'd think aerosol carb cleaner or brake cleaner works just as well.
It's probably suggested due to its quick evaporating characteristics. I'd think aerosol carb cleaner or brake cleaner works just as well.
Hey, where did you see that 80? what year is it? Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #329
It's at the Pick n Pull in Fresno. Straight back when you walk in the gate, all the way at the South end. Row 83 I think. 1994.
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when was that? did you catch if it was a 3FE? shoot, I'm LATE!!!
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- #331
It was a 3FE. I think I was there the 12th.
Thanks for the heads up! it was not a bad trip...the 80 was gone...surprisingly few yotas at all... I did find enough window felt clips to get the outers back on the ginger bred wagon...and I saw a poor old tercel that was just about immaculate aside from whatever was ripped out the engine bay; the interior was full restoration quality original, still soft, supple and colorfast. it's sad what some people consider trash...
- Thread starter
- #333
Sure thing. I should have posted it when I first saw it there. At least the trip worked out for you.
I use starter fluid instead of Brakleen, works way better, and it's on sale at NAPA right now. Progress on that thing is awesome.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Nice thread wow that tcase..
- Thread starter
- #336
Right..I just hope it wasn't a slipping transmission that chipped it away. The more I look at it though, if it was a slip on the transmission side, I would expect to see damaged teeth around the whole thing. All the damage is isolated to the one side on the input gear. I think that points to a single incident and maybe limped home making a hell of a racket. Thanks.
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- Thread starter
- #337
Since I'm on a parts delay, decided to start working on the grill area. Picked up a valence from Jacob the other day. At some point, this thing was in a front end accident or it was damaged being moved. Here is the worst of the damage besides the valence.
- Thread starter
- #338
Took a little pulling, bending, and massaging but got it real close. Waiting on the touch up paint to arrive and it will get sprayed to color match the white.
Test fit for the valence and grill
Test fit for the valence and grill
Headlight/wiring harness upgrade while you’re in there?
- Thread starter
- #340
No more wiring projects for now.