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- #21
Builds Shoppy's Moonlight 80 LS1 Build 2017 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Shoppy
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How did u do the auto shifter linkage? Are u running emissions? Egr, cats, evap?
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- #23
@White Stripe
This engine package does not run an egr, it comes from a 2002 Camaro, not totally sure but I believe it is ls2. It does require secondary air, evap and cats to be legit. I am running straight pipes st this time. I definately have A plan in the future to add a CARB legal exhaust and get the evap and air working correctly. Not going to be one of those who talk about it and never do it. I suspect the front driveshaft will interfere with a perminant efficiently mounted CAT system, But at this point it was a mad dash to get it running, and for now they are on hold. I will elaborate later in the thread on how the those items go together.
As far as the auto shift...
I messed around with the shifter base and swapping the lower connecting arm to the other side/ cutting the base and such, but in the end the stock Toyota shifter with its shift arm below the base cut and lengthened with a piece of metal worked the best. And allowed the rubber grommet for the shift arm to be utilized. I wound up getting a 91 shifter, using its base for the proper shift detects and using the 96 shift button, handle and shaft...fabricated a bracket for a GM shift cable and attatched to the trans
I found the length and throw of the shift arm on the trans affected where I should drill and attatch the cable to the shifter arm. I simply measured the distance from park to low on the trans arm. Then I picked a spot on the shift arm that moved the same distance. I used a piece of paper to make marks at each end of travel. Draw a straight line and measure. It took a few tries until I found the right spot on the shift arm to drill a hole. After that I created the bracket to hold the cable. The first bracket I made was angled wrong and a little too long so I couldn't use it.
I would recommend installing the shifter and cable in the vehicle then placing the cable housing in the correct spot for adjustment both ways. Try to make sure you get a full range of shift. Then measure how long and what angle the bracket should be that holds the cable. Kinda like the measure twice cut once. It's a pain without a bracket which is partially why I made the first one wrong. I just needed a base line to go off of so estimated the first try then fin tuned off that. I did t get any pics with the cable installed but this is what I came up with.
Once the bracket is on the shifter I had to cut some of the LC body to fit it in place. Silicone and body glue to seal it all back up. But only once everything is in for good. I still haven't sealed it in as I know it's possible i may be pulling the shifter out for some reason. Figured I'd wait till I plan on going through a water crossing
This engine package does not run an egr, it comes from a 2002 Camaro, not totally sure but I believe it is ls2. It does require secondary air, evap and cats to be legit. I am running straight pipes st this time. I definately have A plan in the future to add a CARB legal exhaust and get the evap and air working correctly. Not going to be one of those who talk about it and never do it. I suspect the front driveshaft will interfere with a perminant efficiently mounted CAT system, But at this point it was a mad dash to get it running, and for now they are on hold. I will elaborate later in the thread on how the those items go together.
As far as the auto shift...
I messed around with the shifter base and swapping the lower connecting arm to the other side/ cutting the base and such, but in the end the stock Toyota shifter with its shift arm below the base cut and lengthened with a piece of metal worked the best. And allowed the rubber grommet for the shift arm to be utilized. I wound up getting a 91 shifter, using its base for the proper shift detects and using the 96 shift button, handle and shaft...fabricated a bracket for a GM shift cable and attatched to the trans
I would recommend installing the shifter and cable in the vehicle then placing the cable housing in the correct spot for adjustment both ways. Try to make sure you get a full range of shift. Then measure how long and what angle the bracket should be that holds the cable. Kinda like the measure twice cut once. It's a pain without a bracket which is partially why I made the first one wrong. I just needed a base line to go off of so estimated the first try then fin tuned off that. I did t get any pics with the cable installed but this is what I came up with.
Once the bracket is on the shifter I had to cut some of the LC body to fit it in place. Silicone and body glue to seal it all back up. But only once everything is in for good. I still haven't sealed it in as I know it's possible i may be pulling the shifter out for some reason. Figured I'd wait till I plan on going through a water crossing
Cool. The cruiser I bought uses linkage instead of a cable. But the throw isn't right and by "d" I am already in 1St. So your info will help. I may look into getting a cable and some brackets depending on which method I can make work easiest. Where did u get the cable brackets? I ask about emissions because I'm going to tackle it myself too(starting with the evap). I just got a evap cannister from a 99 Tahoe at the junk yard, looks the same as the 2002 but has a really nice mounting bracket which houses the vent valve as well. Very few v8 swap threads focus on emissions, Obd2 connector(my aftermarket harness didn't come with one)cruise control, or check engine light. Also curious how your ecm is secured. Mine is sitting in a rectangular bucket where it can bounce around. Not asking u to answer all these questions right away, but maybe when u get to that point in your build thread if u wouldn't mind mentioning them I'd appreciate it.
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- #25
So I am a little burnt but I went to see the local REF today. He is really a stand up guy who is into cars and motorcycles and has been our local REF for almost 20 years. He has helped many friend and clients through these kind of swaps, so I trust his opinion and advise thoroughly. I asked about the LS in the 96 landcruiser. He was like too bad it's just about going to be impossible. Basically in order to get the CA BAR to certify a OBDII vehicle there are such tight guidelines to go by it is almost impossible.
The donor vehicle first needs to be of the same weight class or lighter than the one its going into.
The Donor's (in my case) engine, computer, and all modules associated, manifolds, CAT layout, fuel tank, canister and fuel pump module, AIR, Instrument cluster, ABS module etc... No longer are we allowed to modify our vehicles fuel tank to accept a GM FP module and canister etc. The Donor car's tank needs to be used.
As far as the ECM, the BAR requires a receipt from a dealer stating that the factory program has been loaded with VIN from Donor vehicle, which means no VATS bypass, ABS module BUS codes, Instrument cluster BUS codes....etc. There needs to be no codes stored at the time of the referee inspection and all monitors need to be met. To truly be a stand alone ECM these need to be programmed out of the OBDII code reporting which would make it altered and therefore not CARB certified.
He also explained to me that a few years back the BAR used to allow certain waivers to those who appealed some aspects of this, but these days with the BAR OIS Smog machine, the machine itself looks at so many aspects of the ECM that it will never fly.
He recommended that if anyone is interested in a LS swap on a smog vehicle that they should consider the EROD LS3. ($$$14K!!!) It is CARB certified on vehicles that are 1995 and older only. It is A BAD ASS setup, but not for my wallet. Since it is CARB certified there is no need to even see the REF, A regular smog shop can just punch in the CARB number and its done. If you are thinking on doing a LS swap on a 1996 an newer just stop unless you register in a non smog area like mariposa.
So I know I said I would get to that part on the project but after today's lesson, I learned it is possible but definitely not worth my time or headache. It will be registered out of state or maybe Mariposa county, or I can get creative to keep it on the road. To any others considering the LS swap, it is definitely worth it without a doubt. The above info was not really available to me just from blogging it out, most builds I found were not in CA and maybe even several years old, Since 2013 the BAR OIS was officially in place and all of the laws change and current stricter guidelines took place. However going into it I didn't really care if I had to find out of state/county registration. I was determined to get the engine in the friggin car.
Hope this helps some of the many Curious minds.
gofast
SILVER Star
subbed
I think you got the same ref as another member on this board-at least that's what it sounds like. He too told a similar story. Talk to Valley Hybrids, they have been getting cruisers to pass and have a specific facility they go to.
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- #28
Far as the ECM mounting I just mounted it to the firewall using the stock Camaro plastic holder. There was a stud sticking out from the HVAC unit. I used that coupled with a few self tappers seemed to hold it well, plus the stock harness fit there as well. The Check engine light Ground was tied in at the ECM Y-R wire connector D-Pin 4. It was the only connector left after 1F harness was removed, easy to verify the right wire also, just ground it with the key on.
DLC was wired in at the OBDII connector under the dash. I went ahead and ran a wire from passenger to driver side that was easier for me than finding it in the Toyota harness. The Blue LS connector 1 Pin 58 Dark Green Wire is Class 2 Serial Data. Goes to Pin 2 on the DLC
Cruise Control is not quite there yet. I was thinking I may be able to utilize the stock toyota , being i have a cable operated throttle body. If I get the toyota ecm powered up and the correct inputs I may be able to trick it into working, otherwise gm or aftermarket will go in. but more on that later.
DLC was wired in at the OBDII connector under the dash. I went ahead and ran a wire from passenger to driver side that was easier for me than finding it in the Toyota harness. The Blue LS connector 1 Pin 58 Dark Green Wire is Class 2 Serial Data. Goes to Pin 2 on the DLC
Cruise Control is not quite there yet. I was thinking I may be able to utilize the stock toyota , being i have a cable operated throttle body. If I get the toyota ecm powered up and the correct inputs I may be able to trick it into working, otherwise gm or aftermarket will go in. but more on that later.
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- #29
Here are some charts I used
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- #30
I used a separate fuel pump relay (I mounted it near the battery) triggered by the gm ecm and attached the feed wire at this connector behind the driver side kick panel. eliminated pulling the carpet for me
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- #31
Beware there are 3 wires in the gm harness that need power aside from the pcm inputs. One is for the bank 1 injectors and 1 for the bank 2 injectors. And also there is one that powers up MAF sensor circuit. They require 15 amp fused KEy On circuits. I believe they are all orange or likely pink wires but double check per diagrams. Won't run without them
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
Don't feel bad about the CARB thing, I ran into this when I LS3'ed my jet sled/boat.
In order to obtain insurance & Coast Guard approval, I couldn't just unbolt my marine alternator & other marine parts (mainly the water injected exh manifolds) - I had to buy a real OBD-M LS3 -- it was slightly more than a E-Rod package LS3.
Only upside is now that I have a full OBD-M LS3, if anything went sideways I can swap shortblocks.
In order to obtain insurance & Coast Guard approval, I couldn't just unbolt my marine alternator & other marine parts (mainly the water injected exh manifolds) - I had to buy a real OBD-M LS3 -- it was slightly more than a E-Rod package LS3.
Only upside is now that I have a full OBD-M LS3, if anything went sideways I can swap shortblocks.
Great Build/Write up
Mike Shoppy is truly a talented Mechanic & Fabricator. I am blessed to live in the small town where the shop he works at is located & lucky to have him as my Mechanic, The Fat lady is in good hands
THANKS SHOPPY
Mike Shoppy is truly a talented Mechanic & Fabricator. I am blessed to live in the small town where the shop he works at is located & lucky to have him as my Mechanic, The Fat lady is in good hands
THANKS SHOPPY
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- #34
You're to kind @brosky
So along the lines of wiring I finished some loose ends today. I had just thrown some power to the harness to get er going. Today I wired in a fuse block and added some wire to get everything fused properly. Carefully labeled the wires with little tags and tucked everything into some loom. Really cleaned up the install and got a clear understanding of how the it's all wired.
So along the lines of wiring I finished some loose ends today. I had just thrown some power to the harness to get er going. Today I wired in a fuse block and added some wire to get everything fused properly. Carefully labeled the wires with little tags and tucked everything into some loom. Really cleaned up the install and got a clear understanding of how the it's all wired.
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- #35
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- #36
Cut the lines just in front of the fuel tank an installed the earls fittings. They are snug fit but went on nicely. Then made a couple short hoses to adapt to the filter. The filter returns the fuel after it regulates pressure the thus allowing one feed line up to the fuel rail. Clean and easy. Ran it along the stock lines and even used the studs to attach line clamps to hold it in place.
I used the same style earls fittings on the transmission lines. One trans hardline went earls-6an braid hose-the cooler tubes under the battery where I just slipped the braided hose over the barbed tube and double hose clamped. The other trans hardline went earls fitting- 6an braid to the radiator fitting on the passenger side.
I removed the stock Toyota radiator fitting and installed a short piece of 3/8 tube- single edge flared it and installed it in the radiator with the stock brass line nut leaving about 1" of tubing exposed; just enough to slip on an earls 3/8" union 6an fitting. This was a little bit of work but in the end I was able to use braided an lines on a stock Toyota LC radiator which I really like.
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- #37
I cut an old AAA sign up to make a shroud for the LS dual fans was pretty simple just had to slide the metal untie the bottom shroud bracket and trim out some moons for the fans to pull from 6mm bolts and self tappers to attach all. Trimmed the fan shrouds to make a nice flat surface to attach and no air leaks. Worked out good and sturdy. Also have had no overheating issues whatsoever and it was cheap! Installed new fan relays to finish it off.
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- #38
Once I got the radiator in things we're really coming together. The trans was in, the engine set and shifters working. All that was left was radiator hoses and driveshafts. I tried finding some radiator hoses by walking the isle at the ZONE and after several attempts at different hoses I finally just sucked it up and bought the summit stainless upper and lower hoses. I call them "You bend em" hoses. I've used them on some hot rod projects before and have had good luck with them so I figured I'd try it here. The heater hoses I used are listed on page one. One hose was little short so I used a barbed brass hose connector NOT some chinsy plastic to join hoses.
The driveshafts were fairly easy but had to be subbed. I went with Tom Woods driveshafts front and rear. They are very helpful and have a good product for a very reasonable price. Plus it shipped writhing 48 hours. Give them a call, you probably won't regret it. The front shaft is very close to the trans oil pan. You actually have to beat the Pan in as far as you can to clear the shaft. Careful not to busy the 2nd gear accumulator housing inside so just easy taps until it forms around the inside parts. I wa sable to use the stock split case flanges. I went with the small flange pattern on both ends of the front shaft so I would get the most clearance. For the t case flange I pounded out the studs and clocked the driveshaft 45 degrees and drilled new holes to match the smaller pattern. Went right in. Also had a double cardon shaft.
NOTE if you order a double Cardon for this type of install ask them to weld the balance washers on the shaft and not the double Cardon.
The read shaft was straight forward. Measure, order, and install.
The driveshafts were fairly easy but had to be subbed. I went with Tom Woods driveshafts front and rear. They are very helpful and have a good product for a very reasonable price. Plus it shipped writhing 48 hours. Give them a call, you probably won't regret it. The front shaft is very close to the trans oil pan. You actually have to beat the Pan in as far as you can to clear the shaft. Careful not to busy the 2nd gear accumulator housing inside so just easy taps until it forms around the inside parts. I wa sable to use the stock split case flanges. I went with the small flange pattern on both ends of the front shaft so I would get the most clearance. For the t case flange I pounded out the studs and clocked the driveshaft 45 degrees and drilled new holes to match the smaller pattern. Went right in. Also had a double cardon shaft.
NOTE if you order a double Cardon for this type of install ask them to weld the balance washers on the shaft and not the double Cardon.
The read shaft was straight forward. Measure, order, and install.
Where did you get the intake tube from?
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- #40
Amongst all the chaos of installing the LS I was putting off the lift. Being vertically challenged it was easier to get all the hard stuff done before it got new sneakers and leg braces. So I went ahead and installed the slinky 75mm heavy stage 1 kit. I went with the slee DIY track bar adjusters and DIY rear upper control arms. Moved the front axle forward 1" with some plates I got from Redlineline landcruisers to help with the 37's. I kept the sway bars for now with extensions from Redline Landcruisers. Once all this was installed the front end was a little high with no bumper and 200+# shaved off the drivetrain so I installed 30mm spring spacers in the rear.
