Malleus
Far west of Siegen
You need (2) washers per bolt. These are the only sealing provision in the design. It's not a good idea to reuse them.
Banjo bolt 90401-12097
Washer 90430-12026
Fuel Filter Replacement - Complete (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Congo Cruiser
- Start date
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- Tags
- fuel filter
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Banjo bolt 90401-12097
Washer 90430-12026
They are just copper washers, Nothing Special. If you can't get them from toyota, any copper washer of the correct diameters and thickness will work.
Last edited:
Formulaonehd
NWZ - The storm is here
Thanks for this info. I can only find 1 banjo bolt on ebay, total 0f $30 including shipping from the US OWCH!!. I wonder if there are any direct replacement bolts/washers. Might pop into local Toyota dealer though not holding my breath
Formulaonehd
NWZ - The storm is here
Toyota here stock them in the thousands so much be used on other models too. about $10 each.
The OEM fuel filter $120
The OEM fuel filter $120
- Thread starter
- #26
So, had to put this project off by a few weeks. Going to get after it this weekend.
Today I got familiar with everything and found that my fuel filter is indeed Chinese and whoever installed it didn’t bother to use the inboard mounting bolt. I hate that. It’s exactly why I’m wanting to do more of this myself.
I’ve coated the bolts with PB Blaster, have disconnected the fuel pump and ordered new mounting bolts (both). Will tackle this on Friday when the new bolts arrive.
Here’s a photo of my one bolt-mounted Chinese fuel filter...you can see the filter bracket didn’t quite fit, so the guy just said screw it and left it with only one mounting bolt...
I removed the harness from the oil level sensor. Any need to remove the actual sensor?
Also, I’ve not yet put my eyes on the #2 Knock Sensor, which I understand to be near the fuel filter and under the intake manifold. Any tips on the best way to disconnect the Knock Sensor?
Thanks much. I know I’m overthinking this, but it’s a first for me and I want to do things properly. All the tips included in this thread have been very helpful. All the oil you see in that photo is PB Blaster by the way.
Today I got familiar with everything and found that my fuel filter is indeed Chinese and whoever installed it didn’t bother to use the inboard mounting bolt. I hate that. It’s exactly why I’m wanting to do more of this myself.
I’ve coated the bolts with PB Blaster, have disconnected the fuel pump and ordered new mounting bolts (both). Will tackle this on Friday when the new bolts arrive.
Here’s a photo of my one bolt-mounted Chinese fuel filter...you can see the filter bracket didn’t quite fit, so the guy just said screw it and left it with only one mounting bolt...
I removed the harness from the oil level sensor. Any need to remove the actual sensor?
Also, I’ve not yet put my eyes on the #2 Knock Sensor, which I understand to be near the fuel filter and under the intake manifold. Any tips on the best way to disconnect the Knock Sensor?
Thanks much. I know I’m overthinking this, but it’s a first for me and I want to do things properly. All the tips included in this thread have been very helpful. All the oil you see in that photo is PB Blaster by the way.
Mudrak's did this from the top and bottom sides (loooooong extension), and it was clearly a PITA of a job. (I watched for future reference and my own edification). One tip I can pass along if it hasn't already been said, remove the gas cap to relieve some of the pressure from the system, and at least some potential for spraying fuel all over. Good luck with the job!
- Thread starter
- #28
So, I’ve successfully removed the crappy Chinese fuel filter that was half-assed hanging by one bolt thanks to some lazy mechanic years back...
Really wasn’t too bad of a job, but getting the new OEM filter installed is going to be a lot harder I’m sure. All the tips in this thread were incredibly helpful. Thanks to all of you!
Really wasn’t too bad of a job, but getting the new OEM filter installed is going to be a lot harder I’m sure. All the tips in this thread were incredibly helpful. Thanks to all of you!
- Thread starter
- #29
I’ve ordered new OEM filter mounting bolts, so this project is on hold until tomorrow morning when they arrive.
A few highlights that I used to get this done, all of which are likely newbie inexperience or overkill, but hey, it’s a learning experience!
1) Removed the Battery and Battery Tray/Box. Lots more access from the front and a great place for a work light (needed to clean up the battery area anyway)...
2) Removed the oil filter (thanks for that tip!)...easier to access the front of the fuel filter...
3) Was very careful around the Knock Sensors, but chose not to mess with them because the wiring and harnesses looked so fragile!
4) Followed the FSM procedure of disconnecting the fuel pump and starting till the car dies. I think the fact that I’m on a quarter tank, that I disconnected the fuel pump and that I removed the gas cap all helped me to loose very, very little fuel. Honetstly, was just half a cup or so (most poured out of the filter). Already cleaned it up. Disconnected fuel pump...
Thanks again to everyone. Hoping the reassembly goes smooth tomorrow...those mounting bolts look tough to get to!
I’ll update tomorrow.
A few highlights that I used to get this done, all of which are likely newbie inexperience or overkill, but hey, it’s a learning experience!
1) Removed the Battery and Battery Tray/Box. Lots more access from the front and a great place for a work light (needed to clean up the battery area anyway)...
2) Removed the oil filter (thanks for that tip!)...easier to access the front of the fuel filter...
3) Was very careful around the Knock Sensors, but chose not to mess with them because the wiring and harnesses looked so fragile!
4) Followed the FSM procedure of disconnecting the fuel pump and starting till the car dies. I think the fact that I’m on a quarter tank, that I disconnected the fuel pump and that I removed the gas cap all helped me to loose very, very little fuel. Honetstly, was just half a cup or so (most poured out of the filter). Already cleaned it up. Disconnected fuel pump...
Thanks again to everyone. Hoping the reassembly goes smooth tomorrow...those mounting bolts look tough to get to!
I’ll update tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #30
Oh, and you can see where that Chinese filter bent when I was disconnecting the fuel line. Cheap. I have no idea who put that on or how long it was on. I don’t have a record of that being done.
OEM all the way going forward. Irritating how cheaply that was done.
OEM all the way going forward. Irritating how cheaply that was done.
- Thread starter
- #32
Greetings. Finished up my Fuel Filter replacement today. Really wasn’t too bad. I did a lot of cleaning-up I the area while working on this. I also found a lot of half-assed work that I corrected (wiring harnesses not secured, brackets pushed around, etc.).
Thanks again for all the tips! They were all very helped.
I managed to secure the filter with both mounting bolts and without notching the bracket, although notching it is a great idea!
I found the real trick to the hardest part of this job was a long socket extension (or several) with a wobble socket running up to the inboard mounting bolt from just under the oil pan while laying on your back.
I was also able to properly torque both Union Bolts, which I was pleased about.
Some highlights (in no particular) order from the tips that worked best for me...
1) Definitely remove the oil filter! Makes a lot of space.
2) Use long extensions.
3) Watch the Knock Sensors - as several members mentioned. I didn’t mess with them, but was just real patient, slow and careful.
4) Install and torque down the front Union Bolt before mounting the filter.
5) Be sure your old copper washers are removed from the fuel lines and Union Bolts.
6) Follow the FSM and disconnect the fuel pump. Then remove the gas cap. Very little fuel will spill. I guess it may help if your tank is under a half full - mine was at a quarter.
7) Wear eye protection!
8) Have a few spare washers. They like to fall off the Union Bolts during installation and get lost!
9) Spend a few extra bucks for new Union Bolts and Mounting Bolts. It’s the fuel system after all!
10) Watch out our for the Oil Level Sensor while maneuvering the filter up into place.
11) Turning the wheel (with tire removed of course) all the way to the left gives you plenty of room in the wheel well. Definitely remove the rubber skirts on the fender.
12) I removed the battery and Battery Tray/Box. That was probably overkill, but it made access from the top a lot easier, especially when removing the old filter.
Hope this helps someone. I know you guys that rebuild engines are probably chuckling, but this was a first for me and it was fun to do. Good confidence builder for a newbie at this stuff!
Photo of the new Fuel Filter with the front Union Bolt torqued down before mounting the filter...
Photo of the socket extension setup I used to mount the filter, accessing it from underneath near the oil pan...
Photo of my particular Torque Wrench, which was fortunately just the right size for torquing down the rear Union Bolt...
Success! Properly mounted and torqued OEM Fuel Filter...
A relatively easy hour-long job that I did in four!
Good luck if you attempt it.
Thanks again for all the tips! They were all very helped.
I managed to secure the filter with both mounting bolts and without notching the bracket, although notching it is a great idea!
I found the real trick to the hardest part of this job was a long socket extension (or several) with a wobble socket running up to the inboard mounting bolt from just under the oil pan while laying on your back.
I was also able to properly torque both Union Bolts, which I was pleased about.
Some highlights (in no particular) order from the tips that worked best for me...
1) Definitely remove the oil filter! Makes a lot of space.
2) Use long extensions.
3) Watch the Knock Sensors - as several members mentioned. I didn’t mess with them, but was just real patient, slow and careful.
4) Install and torque down the front Union Bolt before mounting the filter.
5) Be sure your old copper washers are removed from the fuel lines and Union Bolts.
6) Follow the FSM and disconnect the fuel pump. Then remove the gas cap. Very little fuel will spill. I guess it may help if your tank is under a half full - mine was at a quarter.
7) Wear eye protection!
8) Have a few spare washers. They like to fall off the Union Bolts during installation and get lost!
9) Spend a few extra bucks for new Union Bolts and Mounting Bolts. It’s the fuel system after all!
10) Watch out our for the Oil Level Sensor while maneuvering the filter up into place.
11) Turning the wheel (with tire removed of course) all the way to the left gives you plenty of room in the wheel well. Definitely remove the rubber skirts on the fender.
12) I removed the battery and Battery Tray/Box. That was probably overkill, but it made access from the top a lot easier, especially when removing the old filter.
Hope this helps someone. I know you guys that rebuild engines are probably chuckling, but this was a first for me and it was fun to do. Good confidence builder for a newbie at this stuff!
Photo of the new Fuel Filter with the front Union Bolt torqued down before mounting the filter...
Photo of the socket extension setup I used to mount the filter, accessing it from underneath near the oil pan...
Photo of my particular Torque Wrench, which was fortunately just the right size for torquing down the rear Union Bolt...
Success! Properly mounted and torqued OEM Fuel Filter...
A relatively easy hour-long job that I did in four!
Good luck if you attempt it.
Just to confirm, the oil filter can be removed without draining the oil, correct?
- Thread starter
- #34
I needed to change the oil anyway, so I did these together. I’ll defer to the experts regarding your question on removing the oil filter without changing the oil. Good luck! It’s not bad at all.
The oil filter can be removed without draining the pan. The oil in the filter housing will be lost and some will have to be added to compensate for this loss. Probably best to do as PM at a regular oil change interval; but you could just remove the filter. Put a new oil filter on if you remove one. Never reuse an oil filter.
lumbee1
Native American
What is the recommended filter? OEM or is there an equivalent quality filter for less.
- Thread starter
- #37
@lumbee1, I pulled a Chinese knock-off out of my truck. No idea who put it on or when.
Personally, I’d go OEM. It’s not that expensive. I think I paid $35 for my OEM replacement Fuel Filter. It was made in Japan.
Here are photos of the Chinese knock-off...
Photos of the Inside of a Chinese Fuel Filter
SmokingRocks
hopelessly addicted to Cruisers
My PO had the same cruddy chinese filter put on. That + serviced injectors made the engine more peppy.
The oil filters at the dealership here are like $6. I just grab 5 or so at a time. They had 36 in stock last time.
