Builds Urban Assault Cruiser 92 FJ80 (1 Viewer)

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... Now I just need to source some new flanges, or locking hubs. Which I'm not real up on 80 series locking hubs, so what is total garbage to look out for. As far as used flanges, I want newer ones, like 93 or 94 right? Didn't they change in 95? From my understanding 91 n 92 are the bad hub flange years right?

Cruiser Outfitters has the parts. Till mid '94 is the short, later ones are longer/stronger. The later one can be run on early birf, the clip wont fit, need a washer large enough to do over the edge of the flange and a bolt holding it into the birf.
 
Cruiser Outfitters has the parts. Till mid '94 is the short, later ones are longer/stronger. The later one can be run on early birf, the clip wont fit, need a washer large enough to do over the edge of the flange and a bolt holding it into the birf.
Thanks. So do 93 and 94 have the same stripping issues? I can probably get it cheaper cheaper than cruiser outfitters at Toyota since I work for Toyota. But I'll probably look for used since I'm not in a hurry or just get locking hubs.
 
Thanks. So do 93 and 94 have the same stripping issues? I can probably get it cheaper cheaper than cruiser outfitters at Toyota since I work for Toyota. But I'll probably look for used since I'm not in a hurry or just get locking hubs.

The short birf rigs suffer the same weakness. Check the birf splines, often they have significant wear, if so a ~$25 flange will get it going, would be less likely to put a hub without birf replacement?
 
The short birf rigs suffer the same weakness. Check the birf splines, often they have significant wear, if so a ~$25 flange will get it going, would be less likely to put a hub without birf replacement?
OK I'll get parts for the later stuff then. Thank you. I'll check the axle splines when it gets here.
 
Screw the headlight talk, show the motor.
 
Before the "wont run scenario" That looked like a decent deal for the swap being done already. Confrats on scooping it even cheaper with an easy fix.
 
Cruiser finally showed up. I've been pretty sick lately so only had the energy to drive it home. Looked it over for 10 minutes and took note of obvious work it needs. Reality has kinda hit me it's going to take a lot of work. After doing so much to my 40 this year and I yet will do still, and after paying for shipping and the 80 itself-it's going to sit a few months just so I don't burn myself out. Here are the pics I got right now...

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Hells yes - despite staring & pining for a 3UR swap 80 - nothing like a coilpack'd Vortec/LS variets under a 80 hood.

Well done, can't wait for updates (have a LS3 in my boat, I'm a fan of many timing chain V8's).

Hell yes!!

I'll even say I prefer a Vortec (more emphatically a LS-x really), than a 2UZ.
Said it.
 
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It's amazing how cheap parts are as I do research. 250 amp alternator for a ls? 100 bucks. Ac hose? 30 bucks lol. Main thing will be to clean up the swap first. Tach n oil pressure gauge don't work. Ac not hooked up. Needs cats n secondary o2's wired in, and gm evap system. Hook up cruise. Then reflashed. I don't anticipate that costing more than 1500ish I'm guessing. Also the shifting has something funny going on. Feels like the shifter isn't adjusted right, almost like the shift rod needs to be longer for more throw. It has a 700r4 in it.
 
Just did a 700R4 into my '68 Camaro.
-Full honesty, I am the wallet for my Father's fun-time, HE did the swap work, did some added good like a diff stall converter, a solenoid trip/shift thing (IDK, he's the drag racer in the fam) - & he did a whole conversion on the fluid passage plate that involved stiffer springs & check balls.

It's still on his hoist, I've never driven it yet since it had a column shift 2sp hydromatic/327 2bbl in it. How I bought it/titled & we did a 4bbl/700r4 with a horseshoe/floor shifter.

I buy, he improves - we profit. Better stated.
But I can ask him to reguritate some portion if you like.

If it's a internal 700r4 thing, LMK - 700r4 to 80-body linkage IDK jack about.
 
Just did a 700R4 into my '68 Camaro.
-Full honesty, I am the wallet for my Father's fun-time, HE did the swap work, did some added good like a diff stall converter, a solenoid trip/shift thing (IDK, he's the drag racer in the fam) - & he did a whole conversion on the fluid passage plate that involved stiffer springs & check balls.

It's still on his hoist, I've never driven it yet since it had a column shift 2sp hydromatic/327 2bbl in it. How I bought it/titled & we did a 4bbl/700r4 with a horseshoe/floor shifter.

I buy, he improves - we profit. Better stated.
But I can ask him to reguritate some portion if you like.

If it's a internal 700r4 thing, LMK - 700r4 to 80-body linkage IDK jack about.
Cool thanks man. Pretty cool deal you got worked out with your Dad.
I'll check it out once I get it on the lift. He had it built recently and I'm going to call the shop and get the details. Supposedly they did a bunch of mods to beef it up. It has a separate switch for torque converter lockup.
 
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Got the rig in the shop and gave it a real good look. Whew, she needs a lot of work. I got a good used rear hatch and a driver door due to rust and damage. Also removed all the led fog lights, funky light bar, and grill guard. Found a used cruise control Assembly so I can at some point get cruise going, as well. First step I'm going to get the emissions system hooked up. I will start with evap first because the tank vent line is vented to atmosphere. I got a evap cannister from a 99 Tahoe, comes with the vent valve built onto it and a easily adaptable bracket. For the ftp sensor I bought some aluminum stock and will drill holes in the aluminum and mount the ftp sensor in the aluminum in line with the factory cruiser tank vent line. Also looked at some diagrams and drew myself up a wiring diagram for the evap system.
 
So it's drivable or it isn't? I'm confused.
Yea it's drivable now. The past owner said it wasn't drivable at all due to it making terrible noises-especially when braking. He didn't know the front caliper bolt had fallen out. After my buddy picked it up he saw the loose caliper and tightened it up. I haven't replaced the stripped hub flanges yet so the center diff has to be locked for it to drive. I've driven it a few miles just to see how the motor runs and transmission shifts, and it does great. It needs a lot of work, but it's now a running and driving project.
 
I have some early taller birf parts, let me know what you need.
 
Got my depo lights today. Took forever. Only place I could find to still get these was Russia. Eventually I will retrofit them. I really didn't want to get these now but they were the last ones. After I ordered them more appeared to be in stock...well whatever they are here.
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Got most the pieces to make my fuel tank pressure sensor in line manifold. I don't have a machine shop, this will be very basic but should work fine. I'm not going to go super crazy with mechanical prettiness on this. It will be my daily driver, and the chances of a daily driven vehicle getting in a wreck are real. So I'm just going to keep it simple and swappable to another 80 if this one gets hit or I hit someone.
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Basically the vent will go straight through and the sensor will mount in a 3rd hole yet to be drilled on the side and t into the vent. The two bottom holes are for m8 bolts to hold the aluminum to the frame. I researched doing this out of a composite of types but couldn't figure out a good material. So I went aluminum.
 
Cool project and nice find. Funny the things that will make an owner abandon their project (I've done it myself, lol). My fj62 had a 700r4, fricken hated that transmission... maybe yours will be a little smoother. :cheers:
 
Cool project and nice find. Funny the things that will make an owner abandon their project (I've done it myself, lol). My fj62 had a 700r4, fricken hated that transmission... maybe yours will be a little smoother. :cheers:
From what I understand the 700r4 is a mechanical version of the 4l60e. This one he had built up pretty good supposedly but I have yet to call the trans shop that built it and get specifics. This one shifts a little more harsh than a regular 4l60e. Why did you hate yours?
 

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