1HD FTE Misfiring & HardStart (1 Viewer)

[roscoFJ73]

My mechanic was talking of a worn out rotor head? How good are the rebuilds on the pump or do I opt for a new one.

Injector pumps are designed to be rebuilt and can last a long time done properly. Pumps are very expensive for these.

The other 4 lines had diesel leaking with weak pressure. Does that point to faulty IP or injectors.

That's hard to say. Usually when a pump loses pressure, it does so equally across all injectors. Your pump is a rotary pump ,so it uses a single plunger to make the pressure, which is why I thought they would lose pressure across all injectors.
The problem could be individual injector valves but I am guessing here.
I don't know how to isolate a distributor head(rotary head) in a pump.
It could be that your injectors have not been rebuilt correctly. That test I posted a video of is the only way I know to isolate the problem.
Do you trust the injection shop?

 

[Joshua Korir]

Injector pumps are designed to be rebuilt and can last a long time done properly. Pumps are very expensive for these.



That's hard to say. Usually when a pump loses pressure, it does so equally across all injectors. Your pump is a rotary pump ,so it uses a single plunger to make the pressure, which is why I thought they would lose pressure across all injectors.
The problem could be individual injector valves but I am guessing here.
I don't know how to isolate a distributor head(rotary head) in a pump.
It could be that your injectors have not been rebuilt correctly. That test I posted a video of is the only way I know to isolate the problem.
Do you trust the injection shop?

Yes they seem to know what they are doing so I guess that's the only option I have. The hard start and white smoke is cured for now, I guess the hand pump was worn out and maybe allowing air in the system overnight. I didn't want to get the injectors out again, its quite some work but I guess its the only sure cure for a conclusive diagnosis. Will update in the course of the week once I get them out plus the pump.

 

[Joshua Korir]

Injector pumps are designed to be rebuilt and can last a long time done properly. Pumps are very expensive for these.



That's hard to say. Usually when a pump loses pressure, it does so equally across all injectors. Your pump is a rotary pump ,so it uses a single plunger to make the pressure, which is why I thought they would lose pressure across all injectors.
The problem could be individual injector valves but I am guessing here.
I don't know how to isolate a distributor head(rotary head) in a pump.
It could be that your injectors have not been rebuilt correctly. That test I posted a video of is the only way I know to isolate the problem.
Do you trust the injection shop?

Could the Injector valves be faulty and not be picked up during calibration? Vehicle has 370Ks on it. Had one previous owner and I dont know if injectors have ever been replaced. Maybe new injectors would cure.

 

[roscoFJ73]

New injectors are not better than serviced injectors that have been rebuilt properly. Injector valves do fail.
Your shop mentioned the distributor head on the injection pump, did they give you any indication why they thought that was the problem?

As I mentioned before the whole system needs to be bench tested to find the exact cause of the problem. Without doing this you will just be throwing money at it with no guarantee it will be fixed.
You need to isolate things. Maybe a 2nd opinion at another diesel shop.
At 370000klms your pump is on borrowed time, but I wouldn't get your wallet out until you know for sure.

 

[Joshua Korir]

100% . I like this approach to get things tested. I spoke to another diesel shop and they seemed more confident with fixing the Car. They suggested testing the pump plus injectors on their machine and give a conclusive report. Will be doing this over the weekend once the injectors are pulled out. The 1st shop mentioned about a worn out rotor head, which might be producing low pressure resulting in poor combustion hence the smell of fumes.

 

[roscoFJ73]

The 1st shop mentioned about a worn out rotor head, which might be producing low pressure resulting in poor combustion hence the smell of fumes.

The head can produce low power but so can other components, like the plunger. This is why I questioned why they thought it was the head without proper testing or dismantling.
I'm looking forward to see the results of the bench test

 

[Joshua Korir]

I got the pump out and have been to 3 diesel shops so far but they don't have necessary power adapters to power the denso pump. Finally located a 4th shop with necessary equipment but they insist on stripping pump first before bench testing it. It doesn't make any sense to me, seems like a scheme to make more money out of their money. They've quoted minimum $2K for a rebuild.
My best bet is to get another pump and test it on car. If problem is cured then I know my pump is faulty.
This might be a dead end to the bench test.

 

[Joshua Korir]

The only diesel shop in town that can bench test the pump have conditions prior to testing the pump. They have to strip it first and quote me for worn out parts. Figures around $1.5K to $2K. Am now hunting for a pump from local breakers. Might be cheaper option.

 

[roscoFJ73]

The only diesel shop in town that can bench test the pump have conditions prior to testing the pump. They have to strip it first and quote me for worn out parts. Figures around $1.5K to $2K. Am now hunting for a pump from local breakers. Might be cheaper option.

This is bull****. The whole idea of the bench test is to see if the problem is definitely in the pump . There is no need to strip the pump. The bench test will give them the pressure the pump can make at various rpm and then if the pressure is low or inconsistent, it can then be stripped..

 

[Joshua Korir]

This is bull****. The whole idea of the bench test is to see if the problem is definitely in the pump . There is no need to strip the pump. The bench test will give them the pressure the pump can make at various rpm and then if the pressure is low or inconsistent, it can then be stripped..

I thought so, but what I gather from most diesel shops I have visited, they don't have the expertise to service the pump. The 4th shop has the correct equipment but they said " your pump may be faulty and explode on the bench". Just a bunch of nonsense I believe. I think there is no local expertise to service the pump. A pump from a breaker goes for around $1.5K. It might be my best bet for now. Am hunting for one from an ex-japan vehicle. Those seem to work well. Will post an update once i get one.

 

[roscoFJ73]

The 4th shop has the correct equipment but they said " your pump may be faulty and explode on the bench". Just a bunch of nonsense I believe.

Correct, a pump would not explode. $1500 is not bad for a used pump if its good. Do they want your old one for a trade in? Maybe you could get a price on sending it to somewhere else like S Africa.

 

[Joshua Korir]

With Christmas holidays things went quiet but I managed to locate a used pump in good condition from Japan for $800.00
It will be shipped early next week. Meanwhile after a some driving on corrugations my vehicle brought the check engine light on with error code P1220. There's also a ticking sound now and loss of power.

 

[Joshua Korir]

 

[roscoFJ73]

The error code of P1220 indicates a malfunction with the "throttle control sensor" or something of that nature. By putting that code into google with your engine it gives a few examples. One site says disconnect the battery for 10 mins then reconnect and let it idle for 10 mins.
I think its the bit circled in yellow. Check to see if its plugged in properly.

I don't like that sound. Do you think its from the pump or the engine? $800 for a 1HD FTE pump is a bargain

 

[IanB]

I don't like that sound. Do you think its from the pump or the engine?

X2, that sounds really negative. Can you isolate the noise the upper or lower engine, or something exterior to the engine?

 

[Joshua Korir]

The error code of P1220 indicates a malfunction with the "throttle control sensor" or something of that nature. By putting that code into google with your engine it gives a few examples. One site says disconnect the battery for 10 mins then reconnect and let it idle for 10 mins.
I think its the bit circled in yellow. Check to see if its plugged in properly.

I don't like that sound. Do you think its from the pump or the engine? $800 for a 1HD FTE pump is a bargain



View attachment 1598878

Will check the connection in the morning. I suspect it has to do with the pump and not engine. We had advanced the pump prior to the trip maybe some connections came loose after long drives on the corrugations. Will have an update in the morning.
$800 for the pump and no exchanges involved.

 

[Joshua Korir]

X2, that sounds really negative. Can you isolate the noise the upper or lower engine, or something exterior to the engine?

Sounds like a diesel knock to me, like some cylinder not getting enough diesel. Will confirm ìn the morning once I get it to the mechanics

 

[Joshua Korir]

 

[Joshua Korir]

Hi guys, an update. Finally I got the vehicle sorted out tonight. It's been a very long fix and without proper tools for diagnosing this fix was proving impossible.
First I ordered a second hand injector pump from Japan that was never to be delivered, long story short the seller actually wanted more than the $800.00 So I was baited only to be slapped with additional costs. Luckily I got a refund.
The diesel knock persisted and my mechanic decided that we monitor the oil level. The oil level was gradually increasing and that pointed to a leaking injector. Injectors were pulled out and one was found to be leaking.
With the calibrated injectors fitted back the check engine light persisted with error code (P1220), and so did the diesel knock. After weeks of trying different fixes to no avail , i decided to have an electrician Check out any open/short circuits.
20 minutes into the inspection (throttle cable and IP) he reports that 2 wires on 2 different IP sockets were split. A quick soldering and proper crimping of the wires was done. We run the engine and I couldn't believe my ears, all the diesel knock had dissaperaed and diesel engine light was gone.
Thank you guys to all the useful pointers, I've learned a lot in the process, and am lucky not to have burned my cash while at it. Will take clear photos of the culprit sockets that were soldered.
Cheers!

 

[WomblingFree]

Well done!

Can you tell us which plugs?
Maybe a pic showing their location?