Auxiliary Fuel Tanks for 200s (1 Viewer)

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Hah! Every time my truck visits the local Toyota dealer it comes back with all of my switches in different positions. It's almost funny.
Do they charge extra for that? :)
 
Definitely a good question that I'll be curious to try first hand as well. At the same time, I have to wander how it would be any different from filling up a jerry can or am I missing something about how those pumps work?

Maybe it's fine. -I just remember Christo reporting real headaches in this regard. Perhaps I'm misremembering...but...?
 
California Question...

Cole is in California (as am I). I'm trying to figure out how this dual hole setup is going to function with California's fume recovery pumps. Has this been tried with a California-type fuel station pump?

Also curious about the seemingly missing closure device under the fuel cap (Don't know what it's called--like a spring-loaded cap you push through in order to fill up). I guess I don't know the significance of that to the pressure sensors, etc. No idea if that is a California-specific thing, or if it matters to remove that.... ??
Yes, they have had Cali installs that worked, as we understand. The physical install and fuel door are what Georg and Dom will sort out when we have the prototype.

Definitely a good question that I'll be curious to try first hand as well. At the same time, I have to wander how it would be any different from filling up a jerry can or am I missing something about how those pumps work?
We shall see!
 
Maybe it's fine. -I just remember Christo reporting real headaches in this regard. Perhaps I'm misremembering...but...?
Understood and agreed as a potential issue and need to assess/address.
 
Markuson,

Some pumps are more sensitive than others regarding the fumes going back to the hose. Most of them gets by and it is fine. BUT there have been instances where I had to hold the pump cover like you do when you fill a jerry can and it isn't very fun when you do 20+ gallons on stock tank then 40+ gallons on auxilary tank. Also some gas pump nozzles are shorter than other and it will not stay on gas filler - you have to hold it in an angle to the proper hole you are trying to fill.

It can be a pain once in a while but it is worth being to drive through Highway 50 without stopping for gas.

People will need to address their rear springs. 40 gallons of fuel x 6 pounds per gallon.... an extra 240 pounds and need to add the weight of the tank itself....

What is the weight per gallon of common fuels? - topics.info.com

Day to day on the truck, aux tank is pretty much empty. We only really fill it when we will go on a trip or a storm coming or before a three day weekend where gas goes up.....

Full disclosure - the experience above is from a 1999 100 Series with LRA 170L tank. When I ordered it I had them weld a 2nd bottom piece as a built it in skid plate. I think it was $50 AUS at the time.

Anyway, looking forward to this and thank you @wardharris for bringing these things in.
 
Seems like many of the questions I read on past pages are just part of the whole process of R&D and common sense. In other words I feel like the guys working on them and getting this all put together have thought of most things and if not, they will occur and be dealt with as part of the whole R&D process. So I ain't sweating it. :) From what I have seen the greatest and most difficult obstacles have already been dealt with. That being, establishing the relationship with LRA and working out some changes for US cruisers, handling the legalities ( that's a biggie) and business entity in a sophisticated way, investment of time and money, then getting some tanks for the mechanical side of the biz to get their hands on and work out all the kinks for us.
Interesting point about Cali pumps fume recovery system. At least the guys working on this are in Cali and not China so they are aware of this. Hah.....More interesting every day.
 
This is speculation;
If the filler neck operates the way I think it does, the pump feeds up into the main portion of the filler neck to fill the main tank. So if you kept the pump going it would just fill the main all the way up to the top of the main filler neck and spill over/back into the aux tank. Kind of like pumping water out of the bottom of a bucket back into the top of the bucket. Hard to explain, but long story short, it won't cause any issues.
I would be concerned that overfilling the main tank would result in fuel in the charcoal canister well before the fuel backflowed into the aux tank, resulting in all sorts of evap codes like you've been dealing with.

@wardharris, is the transfer pump inside the aux tank or external?
 
Seems like it works the same way my 80 series Aux tank works. The pump works when you press the button. I had a 13 gallon Aux and only engaged when it was at a 1/4 tank while driving

I am now struggling between the 13 gal and 24. The 24 provides more capability and I hadnt thought about carrying a spare. A couple of times I had damaged a tire and had to buy one while traveling on a wheeling trip.

And as Christo once told, me a larger tank wouldnt really help him as he would have to stop to pee before he extinguished the 37 gallons the 13 gal tank would give him :D
 
And as Christo once told, me a larger tank wouldnt really help him as he would have to stop to pee before he extinguished the 37 gallons the 13 gal tank would give him :D

I would think the biggest benefit to you would be when towing the Kimberley. Not sure what mileage you get but we typically go ~150 miles between fill-ups, so doubling that with a 400 gallon tank would mean we could stop every 4 hours instead of every 2 hours.
 
I would be concerned that overfilling the main tank would result in fuel in the charcoal canister well before the fuel backflowed into the aux tank, resulting in all sorts of evap codes like you've been dealing with.

@wardharris, is the transfer pump inside the aux tank or external?

Certainly better than fuel dumping on your exhaust and/or ground.

We've determined that fuel in the charcoal canister isn't the cause of the codes.
 
I would think the biggest benefit to you would be when towing the Kimberley. Not sure what mileage you get but we typically go ~150 miles between fill-ups, so doubling that with a 400 gallon tank would mean we could stop every 4 hours instead of every 2 hours.

I get about 10MPG so I can go about 200 Miles which is about 3 hours. That includes the sucky mileage on the MTN passes and the better mileage on the flat lands. I can go Denver to just before Grand Junction without stopping. I typically fuel up in Glenwood
 
10MPG doesn't make sense with those loads. Pedal to the metal and tires inflated at 15 PSI?

I get about 10MPG so I can go about 200 Miles which is about 3 hours. That includes the sucky mileage on the MTN passes and the better mileage on the flat lands. I can go Denver to just before Grand Junction without stopping. I typically fuel up in Glenwood
 
10MPG doesn't make sense with those loads. Pedal to the metal and tires inflated at 15 PSI?

I run 37 psi (per Gaijin). Pulling a 24' long 5000# trailer at ~70mph I get about 7.5mpg. Mileage seems to go up/down by ~1mpg for every 5 mph in my experience (i.e. at 60mph I get 9.5, at 75mph I get 6.5). Hills and mountains only seem to have about 0.5mpg of impact in my experience. Even steep mountain passes don't make much difference, since any massive hit uphill is made up on the downhill.
 
I run 37 psi (per Gaijin). Pulling a 24' long 5000# trailer at ~70mph I get about 7.5mpg. Mileage seems to go up/down by ~1mpg for every 5 mph in my experience (i.e. at 60mph I get 9.5, at 75mph I get 6.5). Hills and mountains only seem to have about 0.5mpg of impact in my experience. Even steep mountain passes don't make much difference, since any massive hit uphill is made up on the downhill.

@Romer must be towing then. Even with winter fuel and 40PSI I get 15-16MPG at 75-80mph, granted no crazy hills around here.
 
Tires at 45 psi. Higher pressure gives better MPG. Over the mtn passes it is in the middle single digits. Then there are a lot of flat planes. If I drive much over 80 the trailer starts to rock :) It might be more like 9-10.

I am just telling you what I am getting. My trailer has 31" tires and has the same width as my cruiser. It has an Independent suspension (No solid axle). It tracks very well
 
Tires at 45 psi. Higher pressure gives better MPG. Over the mtn passes it is in the middle single digits. Then there are a lot of flat planes. If I drive much over 80 the trailer starts to rock :) It might be more like 9-10.

I am just telling you what I am getting. My trailer has 31" tires and has the same width as my cruiser. It has an Independent suspension (No solid axle). It tracks very well

Right. Didn't know ya'll were talking about MPG with a trailer. That's believable.
/hijack
 
@Romer must be towing then. Even with winter fuel and 40PSI I get 15-16MPG at 75-80mph, granted no crazy hills around here.
Yeah his 10mpg was answering my comment "I would think the biggest benefit to you would be when towing the Kimberley."

I get about 15mpg in normal highway driving with my current setup, and was getting about 17mpg with the factory setup.
 
I run 37 psi (per Gaijin). Pulling a 24' long 5000# trailer at ~70mph I get about 7.5mpg. Mileage seems to go up/down by ~1mpg for every 5 mph in my experience (i.e. at 60mph I get 9.5, at 75mph I get 6.5). Hills and mountains only seem to have about 0.5mpg of impact in my experience. Even steep mountain passes don't make much difference, since any massive hit uphill is made up on the downhill.

And this is with stock 3.92 gears??
 
And this is with stock 3.92 gears??

Yep, stock gears. I have 34" A/T tires which are heavy and sticky, so they seem to cut my mileage by about 10%

I will move to 4.88s at some point in the future.
 

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