Quick Question: Front Shock Install- (1 Viewer)

[abuck99]

Replacing the front shocks, I understand NOT to torque the bottom bolt until the shock is fully loaded with wheel is on the ground.

Question is: Do I go ahead and torque the nut on the TOP of the shock before applying full weight?

Thanks

 

[reznunt]

I'd think it would be pretty hard to torque the top nut if it's on the floor.

 

[Sandroad]

'04 FSM says to: 1. remove wheel 2. remove bottom bolt 3. remove top nut. "Installation is in the reverse order of removal."

There is no mention of torquing the bottom bolt or top nut with the wheel on the ground (or even on the vehicle for that matter).

Torque values: bottom bolt is 100 ft-lbs and top nut is 50 ft-lbs

 

[abuck99]

Thanks guys


This is a Ironman shock install and instructions suggested not torquing bottom bolt until suspension was fully loaded- Something to do with not preloading the bushes. Instructions weren't really clear on the top nut so I assumed same as the lower bolt.

Anyway I proceeded and tightened everything up after I put the wheels back on and lowered back I the ground. I couldn't get a torque wrench on the top (before or after the wheel install- there's not space between the nut and the top of the fender for a socket and torque wrench) and I don't have a crows foot big enough- so I got it tight enough with a long wrench and the squish on the bushes looks about right.

Got the rears installed too, but that's been another challenge all together. I'll post up on that later

 

[Sandroad]

I'm going to be doing an Ironman install too. Which type of Ironman did you get? Report back on the ride and handling. I assume the Ironman came with new bushings and maybe even their own torque values?

 

[abuck99]

Sandroad- I picked up the Ironman FoamCell Pro's. MetalTech had them in stock- but not listed on their website. Call to order: (fyi Mud members get 5% discount). I was told that they will be focusing on just selling the FoamCell Pro's moving forward, and de-emphasizing the FoamCell Elite's- my guess is that they are moving out remaining Elite stock before putting the Pro's on the website. At under $200 ea (shipped) the Pro is a lot of shock for the money, IMO. They are beefy.

The torque values Ironman suggests is based on the mounting bolt diameter, which is pretty close to the FSM figures, which I followed on the bottom mounts. Top bolts I used feel best I could since I couldn't get a torque wrench on there. I think there are thread stops as well to keep you from going too far. The Ironman shocks come with top side bushes, washers and nut (The bottom eyes have the bushes already pressed in)

I will post up a separate thread on the Pro's after I put a few miles on them. To be fair, anything I put on the truck would be better (even new oem) than what came off- after 167k miles on the originals, they were ready for replacement.

 

[Battleship]

I'm also interested in an ironman suspension. Sorry for the dumb question - the elites are the middle of the road, white body shock on the ironman site? Why did you go with pro? Don't get me wrong, I subscribe to the theory that anything with a higher number or fancier name must be better.

 

[abuck99]

I'm also interested in an ironman suspension. Sorry for the dumb question - the elites are the middle of the road, white body shock on the ironman site? Why did you go with pro? Don't get me wrong, I subscribe to the theory that anything with a higher number or fancier name must be better.

Not a dumb question- Yeah the "elites" are the FoamCell white shock body and the FoamCell Pros are a black body- the Pro's are a larger diameter shock with something like 50% +/- more oil capacity over the elites; which is claimed to run cooler. I dont know about the performance claims, but for $60 per shock difference, seemed like reasonable ( bigger is better) upgrade to me.

 

[Sandroad]

It also looks like 2 different valvings are available: firm and comfort. Which did you go with?

 

[abuck99]

Firm is the only option for the 100 Series in the Elite or Pro as far as I know.

When I get a moment this week- I'll post up more in a FoamCell Pro thread- I think there is one from July 2015 around that I can add to.

It also looks like 2 different valvings are available: firm and comfort. Which did you go with?

 

[badlander]

With the wheel removed you have to support the lower a-arm with a jack while you remove/replace the shock anyway. Just jack it a little more until the frame lifts off the jack stand and the suspension is basically in the same fully loaded position as when its sitting on the ground. Its OK to tighten the lower bolt in that condition. The lower bushing will be close enough to it's neutral position.

 

[Sandroad]

Firm is the only option for the 100 Series in the Elite or Pro as far as I know.

When I get a moment this week- I'll post up more in a FoamCell Pro thread- I think there is one from July 2015 around that I can add to.

Shoot, I thought the 2 different valvings were available. I'm stock weight so the firm valving would give me a rough ride. Looks like I'm going to have to stick with OEM. Good idea to flip over to the existing thread if you review the Ironman.

 

[uzj100]

Front shock install question. How many banana job is this? I have basic tools and two Toyota jacks. Thank you.

 

[WickedPickle]

Thanks guys


This is a Ironman shock install and instructions suggested not torquing bottom bolt until suspension was fully loaded- Something to do with not preloading the bushes. Instructions weren't really clear on the top nut so I assumed same as the lower bolt.

Anyway I proceeded and tightened everything up after I put the wheels back on and lowered back I the ground. I couldn't get a torque wrench on the top (before or after the wheel install- there's not space between the nut and the top of the fender for a socket and torque wrench) and I don't have a crows foot big enough- so I got it tight enough with a long wrench and the squish on the bushes looks about right.

Got the rears installed too, but that's been another challenge all together. I'll post up on that later

Abuck I thought you already had an ironman lift? If so how many miles did you get on the pre pros you just installed.

 

[abuck99]

Abuck I thought you already had an ironman lift? If so how many miles did you get on the pre pros you just installed.

I installed the FoamCell Pro's back in March of 2016. Ive got about 18k miles on them and happy with the performance.

Front shock install question. How many banana job is this? I have basic tools and two Toyota jacks. Thank you.

One

 

[uzj100]

Thank you.

 

[re_guderian]

Thanks guys


This is a Ironman shock install and instructions suggested not torquing bottom bolt until suspension was fully loaded- Something to do with not preloading the bushes. Instructions weren't really clear on the top nut so I assumed same as the lower bolt.

Anyway I proceeded and tightened everything up after I put the wheels back on and lowered back I the ground. I couldn't get a torque wrench on the top (before or after the wheel install- there's not space between the nut and the top of the fender for a socket and torque wrench) and I don't have a crows foot big enough- so I got it tight enough with a long wrench and the squish on the bushes looks about right.

Got the rears installed too, but that's been another challenge all together. I'll post up on that later

Alrighty... I'm going to put this here, not because I didn't follow these instruction (at least I'm pretty sure I did), but in case anyone was having a similar issue with their Ironman Foam Cell Pro's. The "issue" was the most gosh-awful, insanity-inducing, high pitched squeak you've ever heard. It happens at slow speeds, high speed, bumps, flats, turning, or going straight. It happens when you wiggle the car by standing on the running boards or grab the roof rack. It is impossible to tell exactly where it's coming from. It happens when you're seemingly sitting still and then you fart. The truck would squeak. I could go forward/reverse for 3 inches in the garage and it would squeak while the truck rocked back and forth ever-so-slightly. Tough to tell from the driver's seat if it was front or rear, left or right. It was the most maddening thing ever. In the last year I've replaced lower ball joints, upper control arms (w/new, greasable ball joints), and the Ironman shocks, plus new bump stops. I've had the hubs off, new steering rack with poly bushings, and a bunch of other work, too. There were at least a dozen or more bushings/bolts/washers/joints it could have been on each corner. Got my daughter's fiance to rock the truck while I hit every possible location with the mechanic's stethoscope. Bingo, front passenger lower shock bolt/bushing. Left the truck on the ground, turned the wheels to get some room, and found this:

You can see the burnished area where there was metal on metal rubbing from the sleeve in the lower shock bushing. I happened to have a new lower shock bolt on hand, so I put it in (with a thin layer of moly grease, not sure if that was a good idea or not) torqued it, and viola, noise gone. Hope it didn't permanently distort the sleeve in the shock. Guess we'll find out in time. At least I can fart in my truck again...

 

[PDPerry]

Alrighty... I'm going to put this here, not because I didn't follow these instruction (at least I'm pretty sure I did), but in case anyone was having a similar issue with their Ironman Foam Cell Pro's. The "issue" was the most gosh-awful, insanity-inducing, high pitched squeak you've ever heard. It happens at slow speeds, high speed, bumps, flats, turning, or going straight. It happens when you wiggle the car by standing on the running boards or grab the roof rack. It is impossible to tell exactly where it's coming from. It happens when you're seemingly sitting still and then you fart. The truck would squeak. I could go forward/reverse for 3 inches in the garage and it would squeak while the truck rocked back and forth ever-so-slightly. Tough to tell from the driver's seat if it was front or rear, left or right. It was the most maddening thing ever. In the last year I've replaced lower ball joints, upper control arms (w/new, greasable ball joints), and the Ironman shocks, plus new bump stops. I've had the hubs off, new steering rack with poly bushings, and a bunch of other work, too. There were at least a dozen or more bushings/bolts/washers/joints it could have been on each corner. Got my daughter's fiance to rock the truck while I hit every possible location with the mechanic's stethoscope. Bingo, front passenger lower shock bolt/bushing. Left the truck on the ground, turned the wheels to get some room, and found this:

View attachment 1682642

You can see the burnished area where there was metal on metal rubbing from the sleeve in the lower shock bushing. I happened to have a new lower shock bolt on hand, so I put it in (with a thin layer of moly grease, not sure if that was a good idea or not) torqued it, and viola, noise gone. Hope it didn't permanently distort the sleeve in the shock. Guess we'll find out in time. At least I can fart in my truck again...

Replaced all my OME shocks w/ the Ironman Foam Cell Pros and ran into the same squeak. I re-torqued everything and it went away. Guess they're just overly sensitive to settling after install.