Blown motor help Atlanta (1 Viewer)

[rails]

I'm also interested in what failed. Complete failure like that, warping both heads to the point they are complete losses is no small deal. I feel like a broken record, but I don't think I've ever seen that on a 2UZ. Mechanics (Dealers included) are notorious for absolutely wrong diagnosis on these motors.

I've got a lot of experience with aluminum head overheats and associated problems. Not 2UZ, but inline 6 in the Supra world. Usually, the dealer will not offer any kind of machining. It's either perfect, or scrap. No in between. From an engine builder's perspective that's incredibly dumb and lazy.

A good shop that handles engine builds may be able to take a look at it and determine the heads can be straightened or just machined flat again.

$8800 for a new engine is insanity. That's like a fresh block, heads and associated hardware. $5k is still a healthy profit for a basic shop. Somebody that knows what they're doing could probably do it for $3k and still make some good profit if the heads are salvageable.

I'd love to know if the dealer even actually measured the heads or if they just kept the engine together, did some basic inspection and extrapolated that it may have serious problems and quoted you an entire new engine because they didn't want to bother actually figuring out what's wrong.

Thank you. I strongly suspect dealer didn't spend a lot of time on it. But that is speculation on my part. There are two hoses that run through the top of the firewall centered with the engine. One on the drivers side was ruptured and there was pink liquid on the firewall. Frankly dealer didn't tell me much now that I think about it. So thanks for the heads up.

As suggested above called ACC for a quote. They are looking into it, and will get back to me so fingers crossed. I know they are a great shop.

 

[RND1]

Sounds like heater hose tees. I would have it towed to ACC and have them fix it. Get quotes for rebuild vs. replacement. Either way, don't sell it - you won't easily find another '07 without NAV.

 

[94SRUNNER]

ACC all the way. They know Cruisers!

 

[labcab]

Sounds like heater hose tees. I would have it towed to ACC and have them fix it. Get quotes for rebuild vs. replacement. Either way, don't sell it - you won't easily find another '07 without NAV.

Completely agree here. I've not done one, but remember reading that engine swaps in these are pretty straightforward. If ACC has done a few, they'll be able to get you a better estimate on the labor. e.g. 2 hours vs. $2k. I think @ponytl has done a couple.

 

[bctlex]

Thank you. I strongly suspect dealer didn't spend a lot of time on it. But that is speculation on my part. There are two hoses that run through the top of the firewall centered with the engine. One on the drivers side was ruptured and there was pink liquid on the firewall. Frankly dealer didn't tell me much now that I think about it. So thanks for the heads up.

As suggested above called ACC for a quote. They are looking into it, and will get back to me so fingers crossed. I know they are a great shop.

When the T ruptured, did the engine gets shut-off immediately? If it did, maybe the engine is ok? Since you mentioned that the dealer did not spend a lot time, I would definitely get a second opinion to double check you really need new engine.

 

[Muddy Bean]

Moral of the thread? Replace your T's people. Not worth the risk. His blew at a relatively low mileage...scary because I waited until almost 250k to replace mine...

 

[suprarx7nut]

When the T ruptured, did the engine gets shut-off immediately? If it did, maybe the engine is ok? Since you mentioned that the dealer did not spend a lot time, I would definitely get a second opinion to double check you really need new engine.

I'll reiterate this point again. Checking head flatness correctly means removing the heads. Without doing that I'm not sure how you could possibly get any meaningful measurement. I'm also pretty sure the dealer didn't do that if it took them any less than a full day or two to do the diagnostic work.

Let us know what happens with this!

 

[Spike555]

Thank you. I strongly suspect dealer didn't spend a lot of time on it. But that is speculation on my part. There are two hoses that run through the top of the firewall centered with the engine. One on the drivers side was ruptured and there was pink liquid on the firewall. Frankly dealer didn't tell me much now that I think about it. So thanks for the heads up.

As suggested above called ACC for a quote. They are looking into it, and will get back to me so fingers crossed. I know they are a great shop.

The pink liquid is the coolant.
The heater "T"s are plastic, they get brittle with age. Replace them with metal ones are you'll be good forever.
I'd replace the heater "T"s, fill the cooling system with water and drive it and see how it runs.
If it ran fine for a month then I'd swap over to coolant and go.

 

[Scoin]

I know this is a few months old but any update? Interested on what the out come was.

 

[skhochay]

Looking for some advice. Had a coolant failure and the dealership just called and told me engine is shot, warped heads, $8800 for a new engine installed.

Its a 2007 with 126,000, nice interior, decent paint though it has been in a collision. No rust, and NO FACTORY NAV, so I have a great android head unit that matches perfect running waze, audible, spotify, etc. Meaning I love the truck and had no intention of replacing.

Found a local engine shop to do a swap for a low miles JDM 4.7 for about $5000

Waiting for a quote from a board vendor as well.

So any thoughts on best place to get this fixed in Atlanta? Any exerience with used or reman engines?

Is it worth anything if I just want to sell as is to someone with more mechanical skills than me?

Any thoughts appreciated.

Hello I might sound a bit a-hole, but by reading your note, if you can kill this engine over a simple neglect , how do you chose another use/rebuilt engine when you know 0 about it . I say if you planing to spend 5K(reman) or 9K (new) I would recommend you go with NEW if you can get NEW.

 

[Tareq]

The pink liquid is the coolant.
The heater "T"s are plastic, they get brittle with age. Replace them with metal ones are you'll be good forever.
I'd replace the heater "T"s, fill the cooling system with water and drive it and see how it runs.
If it ran fine for a month then I'd swap over to coolant and go.

Any link to buying them online?
How much labour hours to change them?

 

[geanes]

Any link to buying them online?
How much labour hours to change them?

The tees take about 1 hour total (taking your time). I'd replace the hoses as well. Some say that makes reattaching easier. Hose clamp pliers and angled needle nose pliers are a must.

Here is everything you'd ever need to know on replacing the 2 heater t's and links to purchase brass and stainless ones....

DIY: Replacing heater hose pipe T's *important*

 

[Tareq]

The tees take about 1 hour total (taking your time). I'd replace the hoses as well. Some say that makes reattaching easier. Hose clamp pliers and angled needle nose pliers are a must.

Here is everything you'd ever need to know on replacing the 2 heater t's and links to purchase brass and stainless ones....

DIY: Replacing heater hose pipe T's *important*

Thank you sir!
This looks easy, saved the part number ,,,

I will check the condition of the one in my truck ,,, but might as well change them since they are cheap!

 

[lt1fire]

Thank you sir!
This looks easy, saved the part number ,,,

I will check the condition of the one in my truck ,,, but might as well change them since they are cheap!

Make sure you get all the lines, clamps and tees. you can change it in a walmart parking lot yourself in no time. You will also need some coolant though. I'm doing mine this weekend.

 

[Scoin]

I did some digging and found out the OP sold the truck. Pics of his radio and HVAC make me jealous though.

 

[Tareq]

Make sure you get all the lines, clamps and tees. you can change it in a walmart parking lot yourself in no time. You will also need some coolant though. I'm doing mine this weekend.

Sure, but i will check their conditions first.
My LX has 158k miles, if PO replaced them, when do u think it might have been done?
I have record of 90k service was done.

 

[abuck99]

I did some digging and found out the OP sold the truck. Pics of his radio and HVAC make me jealous though.View attachment 1590421

I believe that truck is sitting in the burbs of Denver....

 

[2001LC]

Yep still in the burbs of Denver.

I picked up a 08 4Runner limited 4WHD 2UZ-fe VVti engine with transmission engine and all three wiring harnesses delivered to my door. I just now began to tear down the 4R engine. Man does it have a lot of stuff that needed to come off, I'm out of room. Just cross referencing parts numbers is time consuming.

My plan was to swap long blocks, then rebuild the Unicorn block & heads at some future date.

My plan is changing as I type. I'm now considering rebuild the 08 4runner engine and then swap into the Unicorn.

I'd never seen this before but it's so easy to determine a blown head gasket. If head(s) and or block warped, that take a complete tear down.

See gasses coming from the hot water out (where hot heater tee goes)

Here's the milk shake (oil with coolant)

Here's compression test:

This should clear up any doubt of if a catastrophic failure being possible in the 2UZ-fe VVti.

I can say the heater tees blew. I can't say if they blew first and was cause, or if coolant was run low and started the a cascading failure which took out the heater tees. But I've no doubt coolant system failure blew this engine.
Hot gasses cooked the hot/out heater tee. The cold/return Tee on passage side was crumbling.

Seemed unusually to me to have a young engine with only 127K have a Tee failure. Records indicate coolant was changed before 10 year and ~100K miles, which is correct for the SLL coolant first time.

Then I replace the Tees on The Black Knight, they fell apart. It is a super clean, super low mile, over maintained 06. So it does suggest even a low mile relatively young Tees can fail.

The condition of 06-07 tees has surprised, me because when I did finally get around to changing the Tees on my 01 (The King, long live the king) last year at ~165K, they looked good. So good, I kept them for spares, they're still hard..

So do we have a difference in the plastic from 01 to 06-07 yeild a short life of tees, IDK.
Is the difference in the metals like that of the thermostat (manufacturer anti pollution initiative around 2005) affecting the coolant IDK.
I Do Know Toyota switched to a SLL coolant around 2003.

 

[Scoin]

Ah it all makes sense now. Should have put 2 and 2 together reading your other threads. Can't wait to see what you do with it, I'll definitely be watching.

 

[2001LC]

I'm also interested in what failed. Complete failure like that, warping both heads to the point they are complete losses is no small deal. I feel like a broken record, but I don't think I've ever seen that on a 2UZ. Mechanics (Dealers included) are notorious for absolutely wrong diagnosis on these motors.

I've got a lot of experience with aluminum head overheats and associated problems. Not 2UZ, but inline 6 in the Supra world. Usually, the dealer will not offer any kind of machining. It's either perfect, or scrap. No in between. From an engine builder's perspective that's incredibly dumb and lazy.

A good shop that handles engine builds may be able to take a look at it and determine the heads can be straightened or just machined flat again.

$8800 for a new engine is insanity. That's like a fresh block, heads and associated hardware. $5k is still a healthy profit for a basic shop. Somebody that knows what they're doing could probably do it for $3k and still make some good profit if the heads are salvageable.

I'd love to know if the dealer even actually measured the heads or if they just kept the engine together, did some basic inspection and extrapolated that it may have serious problems and quoted you an entire new engine because they didn't want to bother actually figuring out what's wrong.

Dealer would just swap in a new OEM long block and scarp the engine. They'd also swap radiator and many other rubber and plastic parts out for new. Ton of labor involved. So pricy rout to take.

I would agree that timing belt rarely if ever takes out a 2UZ-fe maybe not even the VVT-i. But coolant system is the achilles heal of or 100 series. Tees being the biggest concern but proper maintenance of coolant system and inspecting level frequently is very very import. It is more import than oil changes IMHO.

When the T ruptured, did the engine gets shut-off immediately? If it did, maybe the engine is ok? Since you mentioned that the dealer did not spend a lot time, I would definitely get a second opinion to double check you really need new engine.

It was report to me; "as soon as something was wrong (Dash lights and running very bad) it was shut down and towed".

Indication are it was run hot for some time, possibly hundreds or thousand of miles. I say this because of color of some part and radiator neck cracked. It's possible coolant was low for a year ~20K miles, that was last flush. I've seen my share of low coolant systems, with gauge reading low falsely. Clue something is wrong is when cabin heat is turn on and it blows warm or cool, as it should always blow very hot when turned to hot. But I can imagine cabin heat is not used much in the South, and goes unnoticed..

Or could be Tee just started leaking, and once level low enough systems cascaded.

I know this is a few months old but any update? Interested on what the out come was.

Stay tuned I'll start a thread on The Unicorn soon.

Hello I might sound a bit a-hole, but by reading your note, if you can kill this engine over a simple neglect , how do you chose another use/rebuilt engine when you know 0 about it . I say if you planing to spend 5K(reman) or 9K (new) I would recommend you go with NEW if you can get NEW.

First from what I've learned, cost to have a Toyota Dealer do this job is in the $12 to $14K range. JDM for the 2UZ-fe VVTi Land Cruiser are not available from any sources I've found. If someone has a source I'd be interested in hearing about it?

IMHO this was not neglected by PO. He's not a mechanic or DIYer, he relied on Toyota Dealer to maintain. The Toyota History on this one was good, better than most I look at. I'd would not have been concerned with a 10 year old with 127K having a heater Tee failure either.

Other than the blown engine this Unicorn is very clean and was well taken care of. I suppose because it is a Unicorn, PO's respected that. It's not only a Unicorn but and 2007 Unicorn. It is one of the rarest 100 series in the lower 48 of the USA. It so cool it just ended up in my garage.

Funny thing is, I didn't realise it was a Unicorn, and The Unicorn I'd been pining for until after I made the deal, and had here a month. I was just in for the Challenge present by blown engine.