Builds A Teenagers Attempt of a Build Thread (1 Viewer)

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Just saw this thread... keep a posting...
Did I see @Nay in one of those pics? He is a wealth of knowledge with 80 series.
Have you considered a 1" body lift to clear the 37s?
 
Just saw this thread... keep a posting...
Did I see @Nay in one of those pics? He is a wealth of knowledge with 80 series.
Have you considered a 1" body lift to clear the 37s?


Yes @Nay was in one of those pics. He is the one that convinced me anything other then 37s is unacceptable. He definitely knows his stuff and has been a huge help with me on my cruiser. I have sorta looked at body lifts but I am not sure I could get past the look. I need to do some more research I bet if I custom fab the front bumper and maybe someday the rear it would be hard to see. Definitely would be the most cost effective way to do it
 
With the 851/860 +30mm front spacer you have I would say try a 1” body lift first. Unless you have an extra $1500+ to go to a 4” lift. Not only will springs and longer shocks be needed, more CC, but everything will have to be extended, dropped, and at least a front DC driveshaft. It adds up quickly. Also, how are your front radius arm bushings? I had a lot of play in mine at the frame mount that was allowing the front axle to be pushed backwards and the tire to contact the body.

Ya I defiantly do not have $1500 to drop on a whole new suspension so if I am going to do anything right now it would have to be a body lift. My radius arm bushings I think are good I replaced them with some 3 degree ones to correct the castor before summer started. I have not noticed any play but I should check because my front axle does get pushed back to make tire contact with the body.

Thanks for the idea!
 
It doesn't matter what castor correction bushing you get, they all fall apart. Mine lasted two years. :meh: As for the inch of lift, I would just grab some 1" spring spacers. You can get a set on eBay for cheap.
 
You have obviously worked hard and been wise with your money........... until now that is. The worst part about our addiction is that no therapy programs or known meds exist. Add a wife someday and you will need several of those zero turn mowers and some employees. :)
 
Just saw this thread... keep a posting...
Did I see @Nay in one of those pics? He is a wealth of knowledge with 80 series.
Have you considered a 1" body lift to clear the 37s?

Good eye :smokin:

The 37’s are probably my fault - I let him put mine on to test since I needed to do a tire rotation anyway. He was warned, but I should probably publicly apologize.

We’ve added a 1st gen Taco and 3rd gen 4Runner on my end now for my two older sons (the how I know this young Cruiser addict part) - amazing the wheeling they are all doing, getting into fabrication, going broke...
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We’re working on the most cost effective trail deflaring to help with those pesky rubbing issues.

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Just coming across this build thread now. Very nice work man, keep it up!

Have you hit up Eagle Rock trail yet since it's 'local' to ya? I've been wanting to make the trek down for a while now and give it a shot in the 80, curious how it is. (I've attempted it a few times in my old Tacoma but had to throw in the towel since I was solo.)
 
Oh, another thought with fitting 37s is bump stops.
What do you have front & rear?
How long are your shocks?
 
Just coming across this build thread now. Very nice work man, keep it up!

Have you hit up Eagle Rock trail yet since it's 'local' to ya? I've been wanting to make the trek down for a while now and give it a shot in the 80, curious how it is. (I've attempted it a few times in my old Tacoma but had to throw in the towel since I was solo.)

And still on 33’s.

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Oh, another thought with fitting 37s is bump stops.
What do you have front & rear?
How long are your shocks?

His rubbing issues are weird. Less rubbing by removing 1” wheel spacers (stock backspace rims, same as I run, 8.5” wide) and very little in the inside rear wheel well, about like I had with 35’s.

Plus some rear inner fender rubbing on the front that should clear easily - that could be frame end radius arm bushings that were suggested earlier (those are still original) as I clear pretty easily with or without wheel spacers with, again, same rims and pretty much identical tire specs and it’s not really a lift clearance issue vs. a turning clearance issue. I don’t have enough extra lift to explain the difference.

His Fox shocks have more up travel than I’d like to see in total up/down balance (I think they are more or less same specs as the OME non-L), but 37’s with no wheel spacers or bumpstop extensions should be all over the rear inner wheel well and it’s not.

Soooooooo...it feels like a let sleeping dogs lie thing to me except those front radius arm frame bushings, because it’s not tearing up the truck and retuning will not be cheap as more down travel is likely to create a lot of rear wheel well contact as the wheel angles in more.

That’s about the opposite of what I always say, but the grass is neither greener nor growing right now...
 
That’s what I wanted to hear! Hitting sliders much? It’s one thing I need but don’t.. and I know it gets narrow around some of the rocks in there.

Definitely not without sliders. I was all over mine on 37’s and 4” lift. Granted I didn’t take any bypasses, but you are almost definitely going to do some damage without them.

I had forgotten that this one had some of those cost effective pesky plastic removal mods as well.

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His rubbing issues are weird. Less rubbing by removing 1” wheel spacers (stock backspace rims, same as I run, 8.5” wide) and very little in the inside rear wheel well, about like I had with 35’s.

Plus some rear inner fender rubbing on the front that should clear easily - that could be frame end radius arm bushings that were suggested earlier (those are still original) as I clear pretty easily with or without wheel spacers with, again, same rims and pretty much identical tire specs and it’s not really a lift clearance issue vs. a turning clearance issue. I don’t have enough extra lift to explain the difference.

His Fox shocks have more up travel than I’d like to see in total up/down balance (I think they are more or less same specs as the OME non-L), but 37’s with no wheel spacers or bumpstop extensions should be all over the rear inner wheel well and it’s not.

Soooooooo...it feels like a let sleeping dogs lie thing to me except those front radius arm frame bushings, because it’s not tearing up the truck and retuning will not be cheap as more down travel is likely to create a lot of rear wheel well contact as the wheel angles in more.

That’s about the opposite of what I always say, but the grass is neither greener nor growing right now...


Yea the rubbing is weird, it was really bad with 1 inch wheels spacers installed but its not to bad without them. The only place it rubs on the rear is on the inner lip of the rear well. I think most of that can be resolved with a hammer. The front is weird because the wheels are being pushed up and back a little bit and that causes the rubbing. I need to look at those bushings. If it didn't do that it would not rub. I do not know the exact down and up travel of my shocks off the top of my head. All I can remember is they are the Fox IFPs for a 3-4inch lift.
 
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That’s what I wanted to hear! Hitting sliders much? It’s one thing I need but don’t.. and I know it gets narrow around some of the rocks in there.

If you take the bypasses you will be able to get through it. I don't think I would try it without rock sliders though I was using mine a lot. I think I tried all the optional bypasses and needed to be yanked off two or three times. Mind you i am still unlocked. I went solo a few weekends ago and with my 37s I was able to make it through it all with no winch required
 
That’s what I wanted to hear! Hitting sliders much? It’s one thing I need but don’t.. and I know it gets narrow around some of the rocks in there.
I did it once upon a time with 40s and no sliders....that was pretty stressful.
 
Thanks for the heads up guys. My 80 is still stock and so was my Tacoma on a lesser tire that did well in snow and dry. I know the 80 is 10x as capable but the width and damage worries me with line selection. I may try it one of these days if I can get another rig to come with.

How’s the snow situation down there presently?
 
Thanks for the heads up guys. My 80 is still stock and so was my Tacoma on a lesser tire that did well in snow and dry. I know the 80 is 10x as capable but the width and damage worries me with line selection. I may try it one of these days if I can get another rig to come with.

How’s the snow situation down there presently?


Snow should not be an issue right now it has been a very dry winter so far. I doubt there is anything up there. PM me when you deicide to go im always up to go.
 
Thanks for the heads up guys. My 80 is still stock and so was my Tacoma on a lesser tire that did well in snow and dry. I know the 80 is 10x as capable but the width and damage worries me with line selection. I may try it one of these days if I can get another rig to come with.

How’s the snow situation down there presently?

That’s definitely not a stocker trail. We banged around our 3rd gen 4Runner on 33’s with 3” lift, and it squeezed through some lines the 80’s have to go over.

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Both Saran Wrap and Eagle Rock are legit technical trails especially if it’s a bit wet as some steep stuff will just dig out if you start spinning. It was wetter when we went in Aug and there were a few spots that challenged being dual locked on 37’s with 4” lift.

Hackett and/or Longwater Gulches are better suited so long as you don’t try to follow rigs into really deep water that have snorkels and almost hydrolock your engine :D
 

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