Awesome new MPPT controller with bluetooth control for $99 (1 Viewer)

[george_tlc]

Firstly, I assume you mean Bluesolar controller (not bluesea...).

With the 75/15 I've done several tests with constant load (electronic load) and power supply as the battery and have not seen any 'jumping around' issues.

cheers,
george.

 

[bj70_guy]

I figured with no remote temp sensor it was best too keep it near the battery.

No remote temp sensor?

I ordered one of the 75-15s w/dongle today to use with 2 mono 50W panels in series on my 24V BJ74.
My HDJ81 has a 100W mono panel and a Morningstar Sunsaver MPPT, so it should be interesting to compare the 2 systems.

 

[diver1498]

so I finally broke down and bought one (actually the smartsolar. same controller but has built in Bluetooth) and now I fully understand why mppt is so much better than pwm.

 

[bj70_guy]

I picked mine up today. One of my winter projects is throwing the (2) 50W mono panels I scored off craigslist in series on the roof of my 24V BJ74.
Looking forward to getting it up and running.

 

[iptman]

I know it was mentioned earlier the controller should be mounted as close electronically to the battery it's charging so would the rear inside quarter panel of am 80 be too far away? I have some 6 awg wire leftover from another project I was planning on using to run from the deep cycle battery up front. Is this overkill? I assume I shouldn't hang a distribution block off this run so as to not mess up the readings of the controller to the battery?

 

[george_tlc]

Distance from charge controller to battery from a voltage perspective is just to do with voltage drop and voltage measurement accuracy.

So, lets assume 10g and having say 20' from a rear deployment back to a front mount aux battery. Lets assume battery is fairly discharged and the solar is pushing out 150W. So, let's call that 12A into the battery.

10g wire has nominal 1 ohm per 1000'. So, for our 20' (lets assume x 2 for both a red & black wire run from controller to battery).

So, that's 40' total wire length.

So, our wire resistance is 1 / 1000 x 40 = 0.040 ohms.

Now, 12A is flowing and we have 0.040 x 12 = 0.48V drop from the solar controller back to the battery. The charge controller will think there's say 13.8V (battery charging nicely) but the battery is at 13.8 - 0.48 = 13.32V. Not really a big deal. Even less of a deal since the battery will draw less and less current as the voltage heads up to 14.4V (or whatever you have set the max to). Less current, less voltage drop and this more accurate sensing of actual battery voltage.

6g is about 0.4 ohms per 1000'. You can do the math

I wouldn't sweat it either way since all it means is that the battery voltage will be a bit lower than what the controller thinks. You won't risk overcharging the battery and that's the bigger issue.

Myself, well, I'd mount the charge controller high up in the passenger side footwell (that's about 12' total cable length)... But that's the EE in me wanting to optimise things...

cheers,
george.

 

[Rob Faucett]

View attachment 1410697 View attachment 1410698 Real world outdoor shade testing! Sun should be out in a bit.

@Cruiserdrew - Where does that cutting board mount thingy live in your rig when you're charging? TIA - rcf

Never mind. Looks like it hangs inside the cab. Still the case?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I just set the cutting board on the PS floor propped up vertically. It's kind of held in place by my recovery gear. If I only had 1 truck, I'd hard mount it.

 

[Rob Faucett]

Thanks Drew. This thread is bomber.

 

[Rob Faucett]

Is this thing really so fragile/water sensitive that it needs to be in a Pelican case if it's in the engine bay?

 

[Fallon 40]

Is this thing really so fragile/water sensitive that it needs to be in a Pelican case if it's in the engine bay?

I put ours in a harbor freight $14.00
case. Worked out great.

 

[Rob Faucett]

Thanks Fallon. Does it need to be in anything?

 

[Fallon 40]

The controller is in the box so you can move it from one vehicle to another.
I have a 100 series and no room under the hood for a protected mounting location.

 

[Rob Faucett]

The controller is in the box so you can move it from one vehicle to another.
I have a 100 series and no room under the hood for a protected mounting location.

Good idea. Smart. Thanks.

 

[Rob Faucett]

I decided to make a portable setup so I can use it to charge some Bioenno Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries I use for Amateur Radio portable ops as well as my 2nd battery in the 80 series. Due to this, I didn't want to mount the controller in a permanent configuration in the truck.

The box will sit on my bumper when the solar panel is deployed and connect to my second battery system via Anderson PowerPoles which also match all my radio batteries as well.

The box should be large enough to also keep a 30' extension for the panel, so its kind of self contained. Carry the box and panel and I'm good to go.

I was going to use just the PowerPole mounting plates, but for ease of install I'm going with the PanelPole to connect the Battery and Panel.. This will just mount to the outside of the NEMA box through a 1 1/8" hole.

My home charging system is the Noco genius G7200 and keeps my second battery fresh

Both the Solar controller and Noco genius connect with Anderson PowerPoles at the front of the truck

NEMA Economy Box
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UPAN0W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Cheers,

John

@Boltripper - Could you share the part number for that Pelican case?

 

[Overland Tailor]

Rob,

Not Pelican, but very nice for the job...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UPAN0W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[george_tlc]

The mmpt 75/15 is specifically IP43 rated (IP Rating Chart | DSMT.com).

So it is water spray tolerant and I'd agree with that given that the entire electronics subsection if fully potted - but the connectors and fuse are exposed to the elements. Water spray also means H2O, not mud/salt/swamp etc etc...

I personally would recommend mounting up high on the driver or passenger side kick panel inside the cabin. Then just run the wires through the firewall (or wherever) to the battery/solar connector location. Of course this only if you don't need it to be 'portable'.

cheers,
george.

 

[Rob Faucett]

Cool thanks @Boltripper & @george_tlc. Appreciate the help.

 

[Rob Faucett]

Mine is under the hood of my 80 right behind the second battery box mounted on the fender. I put a piece of rigid plastic sheet above it to keep water from pouring through the hood/fender panel gap. Its been there since I started this thread and so far so good.
I figured with no remote temp sensor it was best too keep it near the battery.

@JCruse Any chance you can fire a picture of that setup?

 

[Hiace4wd]

Apparently there is a new version of this controller, which is slightly more expensive but has Bluetooth integrated already, so cheaper in the end.

These versions are now called Smart Solar instead of Blue Solar, but overall are very comparable. It is interesting to swap them if you want to use Bluetooth and the VE.direct physical port at the same time.
And they expanded the range with a 100/20 model. Of course they have 100/30 and 100/50 already, but they don't come with a Load output port so for a different application.