Starter Solenoid FJ40 (1 Viewer)

[Kayaker]

Well I just had an interesting experience: Went to crank up the LC, did all the necessary precursors - pump twice, choke out, gear shift in neutral, depress clutch for good measure and turn the key to the start position. 9 times out of 10 fires up as if it was equipped with fuel injection but not this time - oops, choke only half out. Return key to run position.

What the heck - starter still engaged and turning. Key to off - starter still engaged and turning. Off, on, start, off - still engaged and turning - I know: put it in gear and stop the starter. Ah finally; wait this may be a bad idea - depress clutch, starter still engaged and turning!

Out of the Crusier, pop the hood, grab a wrench - starter still engaged and turning. Off with the battery cable, now quite warm to the touch. Finally - blessed silence.

Never had this happen before - thank goodness I was home in the garage where I had quick access to my wrenches. After giving it some thought, I figured must be the solenoid. Took off the starter, removed the solenoid and the plunger and hook slid out of the housing - that doesn't seem right. Fortunately, Advance Auto had replacment solenoids for the stock starter. When it arrived I gave the plunger and hook a little tug just for fun and sure enough, stays put - just like I remembered.

After installing the new solenoid and replacing the starter, she fired right up, as usual and thankfully the starter disengaged when the key was turned back to the run position and off. Good ending to what could have been a bad story. Anyway, just for fun I dissected the old solenoid to see what happened. Here are some pics of what I found. Looks like the clip on the end of the plunger that keeps the relay contacts in place popped off - though I couldn't find any remains of said clip. Consequently the contacts stayed closed when the ignition switch was turned off. Never had that happen before. Hopefully I'm good for another 41 years before it happens again.

 

[edwjmcgrath]

Good diagnostic and replacement job. I would have said replacing the whole starter is the solution-solenoid is definitely cheaper.

 

[Kayaker]

Yea, that was my first thought. I replaced the starter in 2001 so it has some miles (and time) on it. First thing I did was check on price and availability of replacements and the prices I saw gave me sufficient pause to think about what was actually going on. The starter was turning the engine over just fine, and did so for a full 2 minutes before I was able to disconnect the battery cable. So I figured it must still be going strong - so long as I didn't cook it before I was able to shut it down. Anyway, the solenoid was $24 (plus $9 to ship it) so I figured it was worth the try. I also took the starter in to have it checked (since I had to wait on the part anyway) and, of course, it failed the test. But watching them conduct the test it became obvious to me that they weren't testing the solenoid independent of the starter motor so if my theory was right, it would come back as a false failure.

One of the most valuable lessons I ever learned about dealing vehicle problems is to have a very good idea of what the problem is before ever taking a vehicle to a mechanic/repair shop.

 

[72LC]

Do you have the part number for the solenoid? Mine randomly will stay on and I was assuming and hoping it was just the solenoid. I can just ask the parts counter guy but I'd prefer a part# beforehand if available.

 

[Landpimp]

an FYI, a fj60,62 gear reduction starter is a direct replacement, matter of fact if you order a FJ40 starter from Toyota, that is what they will give you. Will work on all years, I even run one in my 64 fj45LV. Later model 40's came with the GR unit as stock

 

[crackerjackson]

Just happened to me this morning Have had the new starter on it for 3 days now and today with rain and colder weather the beast did not fire u first turn after 2 pumps of the gas pedal. 2nd turn of key and the thing would not stop had to jump out and pull the lead on battery then it stopped. I will hopefully have a new replacement this afternoon and not have this issue again was a little scary at first. Good write up makes sense of what the problem is.

 

[edwjmcgrath]

If you have a new starter (and presumably solenoid), I would first suspect the ignition switch.

 

[cc93cruiser]

Do you have the part number for the solenoid? Mine randomly will stay on and I was assuming and hoping it was just the solenoid. I can just ask the parts counter guy but I'd prefer a part# beforehand if available.

I know this is an old thread, but was wondering if there is a Toyota part number for the starter solenoid. While inspecting battery cable connected to solenoid, somehow I managed to break a very brittle plastic housing on the solenoid . And also the battery end crimp is almost rusted completely... glad I caught this now....

 

[65swb45]

I know this is an old thread, but was wondering if there is a Toyota part number for the starter solenoid. While inspecting battery cable connected to solenoid, somehow I managed to break a very brittle plastic housing on the solenoid . And also the battery end crimp is almost rusted completely... glad I caught this now....

You can probably get someone to send you a good used one for the cost of shipping by posting a want ad. Most have moved on to gear reduction units.

I think I've still got some new solenoids on the shelf if you really want to go that route.

Best

Mark

www.marksoffroad.net

 

[cc93cruiser]

Thanks Mark... After reading some other threads on gear reduction units or 60 series starters, I think I'm gonna give one if these a try.. One thing I didn't catch is if the wiring on my 71 40 will match right up with the newer starter... shouldn't be too bad IIRC it's only like 3 wires...

 

[Lochloosa]

Well I just had an interesting experience: Went to crank up the LC, did all the necessary precursors - pump twice, choke out, gear shift in neutral, depress clutch for good measure and turn the key to the start position. 9 times out of 10 fires up as if it was equipped with fuel injection but not this time - oops, choke only half out. Return key to run position.

What the heck - starter still engaged and turning. Key to off - starter still engaged and turning. Off, on, start, off - still engaged and turning - I know: put it in gear and stop the starter. Ah finally; wait this may be a bad idea - depress clutch, starter still engaged and turning!

Out of the Crusier, pop the hood, grab a wrench - starter still engaged and turning. Off with the battery cable, now quite warm to the touch. Finally - blessed silence.

Never had this happen before - thank goodness I was home in the garage where I had quick access to my wrenches. After giving it some thought, I figured must be the solenoid. Took off the starter, removed the solenoid and the plunger and hook slid out of the housing - that doesn't seem right. Fortunately, Advance Auto had replacment solenoids for the stock starter. When it arrived I gave the plunger and hook a little tug just for fun and sure enough, stays put - just like I remembered.

After installing the new solenoid and replacing the starter, she fired right up, as usual and thankfully the starter disengaged when the key was turned back to the run position and off. Good ending to what could have been a bad story. Anyway, just for fun I dissected the old solenoid to see what happened. Here are some pics of what I found. Looks like the clip on the end of the plunger that keeps the relay contacts in place popped off - though I couldn't find any remains of said clip. Consequently the contacts stayed closed when the ignition switch was turned off. Never had that happen before. Hopefully I'm good for another 41 years before it happens again.
View attachment 800067View attachment 800068View attachment 800069View attachment 800070

Hi, not sure if I have the same issue as you, but my newly acquired 1976 fj40 will start up every time. However, this morning I went out(after driving it 80 miles the night before), and started it up.....but it would not stay running, unless I kept turning & holding the key in the start position. Then, it would run indefinitely as long as I held the key in starting position. Any ideas??
Thanks
Lochloosa

 

[edwjmcgrath]

Hi, not sure if I have the same issue as you, but my newly acquired 1976 fj40 will start up every time. However, this morning I went out(after driving it 80 miles the night before), and started it up.....but it would not stay running, unless I kept turning & holding the key in the start position. Then, it would run indefinitely as long as I held the key in starting position. Any ideas??
Thanks
Lochloosa

When you turn the key and have the starter engaged, it bypasses the resistor that is in series with the coil and feeds 12v to the coil directly. When you let the key go, it feeds 12v to the resistor instead. Either your resistor is burned out (less likely) or you have a bad connection at the bypass resistor (most likely).

 

[Lochloosa]

When you turn the key and have the starter engaged, it bypasses the resistor that is in series with the coil and feeds 12v to the coil directly. When you let the key go, it feeds 12v to the resistor instead. Either your resistor is burned out (less likely) or you have a bad connection at the bypass resistor (most likely).

Thanks! Any idea where that's located or an easy fix?

 

[65swb45]

HELLO!!!!!

Do you want to pull your transmission out????

Probably not.

DO NOT HOLD THE KEY IN THE START POSITION. THAT ENGAGES THE STARTER!!!!!

 

[edwjmcgrath]

Yes, what he said. Although that might help figure out what the problem is, it can cause even worse problems if you do it long term.

Start by following back from your coil + wire, you should find a ceramic block (with wire coils inside) that is your bypass resistor.
Visually check the terminals and check the wire coils.
If they look ok, use your VOM to check for continuity from the bypass resistor + to the coil +.

If all of that looks ok and tests out ok, then it might be your ignition switch.

Turn the ignition switch to On and check for 12v at the resistor +. Turn the ignition switch to START and check for 12v at the Coil +.
If you have the second, but not the first, replace the ignition switch.