Draining Fuel from gas tank? (1 Viewer)

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I think you're showing the BB1 connector, that should be black + from the top of the pump cover to the relay and resistor.
You probably already know this.
BB1 should be, yellow-black,yellow-red, yellow-green(sender) and black, white-black(pump) if in fact that's BB1 for sender and pump. 5 active and 3 open pins.
Then again, it's 20 minutes to lift the seat up and pull the cover, stick a hose in there and drain it all. On a young 100 I wouldn't be concerned about gasket deterioration.
 
Going back to an earlier suggestion, pulling the FP and accessing the tank fron the top will ensure you get all the fuel out, gives you the opportunity to check the small filter sock at the base of the pump, and saves the wear on cycling pump to drain the tank. Prob save you some time as well.
 
I was hopefully someone had found a simpler way.

That was safe, easy, fast & repeatable time and time again with out parts involved. One where I could draw only a few gallons at a time from bottom of tank. Even better pulling through pump & fuel lines to clear them as well.

@jerryb thanks for the wire coding, I did not know. True, gasket is most likely ok, but as matter of practice, I replace gasket that are removed with few exception. Fuel related would not be an exception.

Seems Tap at fuel filter, jump at disconnect and running for short burst is safe. But determining which leads will require uncovering sheathed wires, unless some knows for sure which leads?

Recap:
  1. Siphon through cap is possible with this 100 series. But getting to bottom of tank is hit and miss, and not repeatable without specialized tubing.
  2. Tap at fuel filter, cranking over, many short burst. Hard on starter.
  3. The most recommend here from the start is; pulling fuel pump.
  4. Tap at fuel filter & jump fuel pump at fuse box. Risk of spark near fumes.
  5. Tap at fuel filter & jump at disconnect is safer. But requires determining which leads?
  6. Tap at fuel filter, running engine with starter fluid. May not be possible to keep engine running 2UZ-fe engine.
Good point @abuck99 on inspecting sock filter. I did see in gas cap lid area some strange crud or crude, looked kinda like diesel. In addition lid is bent as if someone tried to force it open without pulled release in cabin. Was it a new owner that just didn't know how to open & fill, that was a bit sloppy with pump nozzle. IDK!

Buying a few extra 5 gallon cans, a seal and pulling fuel pump is starting to look appealing.

This is after first rinse with power washer on this supper clean 07. You can still see some remnants of crud. I've looked at plenty very dirty and well kept older high and low mileage rigs, and not seen the amount or type of crud I saw here. Found it puzzling and a bit concerning!
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I don't understand how this fuel is going to be a problem if left in the tank, you added fuel stabilizer, once you fill with fresh fuel whats left will be so diluted it won't matter.
Any water in the tank, and there won't be enough to say so, will get carried away in small bits with the fresh fuel because it'll stick to the ethanol.

And yes I have ran a engine on starting fluid, a car with a bad fuel pump that needed to be moved from the yard to the garage.
 
Yes, get the old fuel out there. Putting new fuel on top of old phase separated fuel will not 'dilute' it. The new fuel is simply contaminated by the old. Once phase separated....there is layer of heavier water/ethanol mix sitting on the bottom of the tank.

Since you have no way of knowing how badly the fuel might be compromised...it only makes sense to get it out of there.

Gasoline Expiration - Ethanol Blend Fuels Have a Short Shelf Life
 
I don't understand how this fuel is going to be a problem if left in the tank, you added fuel stabilizer, once you fill with fresh fuel whats left will be so diluted it won't matter.
Any water in the tank, and there won't be enough to say so, will get carried away in small bits with the fresh fuel because it'll stick to the ethanol.

And yes I have ran a engine on starting fluid, a car with a bad fuel pump that needed to be moved from the yard to the garage.
Yes it would dilute, but I'd then have twice as much bad gas to burn off. Getting out as much as possible now is my goal!

I've got this horribly image of you hanging on front of a car legs kicking. As car sporadically lunges forward and hood's folded around your torsos clamping you in engine compartment as backfire ignites your hair on fire. o_O

Question here was; have you done this on a 2UZ-fe engine.

Yes, get the old fuel out there. Putting new fuel on top of old phase separated fuel will not 'dilute' it. The new fuel is simply contaminated by the old. Once phase separated....there is layer of heavier water/ethanol mix sitting on the bottom of the tank.

Since you have no way of knowing how badly the fuel might be compromised...it only makes sense to get it out of there.

Gasoline Expiration - Ethanol Blend Fuels Have a Short Shelf Life
I agree, unknown is my concern.

I added the Sta-Bil 360, in hopes of helping to protect the metal parts in fuel system for now.

It would be so simple to drain off water, if Toyota had not deleted the drain plug.:mad:
 
Yes it would dilute, but I'd then have twice as much bad gas to burn off. Getting out as much as possible now is my goal!

I've got this horribly image of you hanging on front of a car legs kicking. As car sporadically lunges forward and hood's folded around your torsos clamping you in engine compartment as backfire ignites your hair on fire. o_O

Question here was; have you done this on a 2UZ-fe engine.

I agree, unknown is my concern.

I added the Sta-Bil 360, in hopes of helping to protect the metal parts in fuel system for now.

It would be so simple to drain off water, if Toyota had not deleted the drain plug.:mad:

LOL!!!

No I have not done it to a 2UZ-fee engine, what difference would that make anyway?
 
I fine with you wanting to drain your fuel tank and whatever, but here is my problem with all of this "bad gas" buisness...that means that most cars being sold off of dealer lots have bad gas in the tank.
At the factory they put in 3-5 gal of gas, just enough to get it from the factory to the train to the semi to the dealer lot.
Brand new cars coming from overseas are 6mo old before they even get to the dealer's lot.
One of my customers bought a brand new Porsche sedan and it sat on a ship for a extra 3mo because of the hurricanes. They ordered the car a year ago.
Every classic car and weekend roadster that is stored over the winter is going to supposedly have phase separated fuel in the tank then.
I do not know of a single hotrod owner or farmer that stores their fuel properly. They shut the tractor off where it was last used and there it sits until spring, in the middle of a frozen field with 1/4 tank of gasoline from the cheapest place they cold get. And if you think tractor engines are cheap you're nuts. If you think a farmer can do without a running tractor for any length of time you're nuts.
Again, I have nothing against what you want to do, I just do not see the need. Cars are build for the masses and the masses are asses who know nothing about cars nor do they care.

I'll keep quite now. I am curious as to how you end up draining the tank though. A drain plug like on a semi or bulldozer tank would be nice.
And with that thought, can you add one? If the template is there can you punch a hole in the tank and then drill it out once empty and add a drain plug?
 
I fine with you wanting to drain your fuel tank and whatever, but here is my problem with all of this "bad gas" buisness...that means that most cars being sold off of dealer lots have bad gas in the tank.
At the factory they put in 3-5 gal of gas, just enough to get it from the factory to the train to the semi to the dealer lot.
Brand new cars coming from overseas are 6mo old before they even get to the dealer's lot.

I think it is important to understand the term "Bad Gas" does not necessarily mean fuel that is so degraded that a vehicle will not 'run' on it (at least for awhile). Stale/Old/Contaminated fuel might very well start and run an engine, but that doesn't mean it is 'OK' or that certain components won't suffer for it.


Every classic car and weekend roadster that is stored over the winter is going to supposedly have phase separated fuel in the tank then.

No. You are mistakenly applying the passage of 'time' as the sole cause for phase separation. The most common cause for this phenomena is ethanol (highly hygroscopic) attracting moisture that is present in the air. ONLY when it reaches its saturation point...do you have phase separation (that is caused by water). The water/ethanol mix are heavier than the fuel, so they settle to the bottom (the water actually pulls the ethanol from the fuel mixture). So it is quite possible in arid climates for this to never happen.

I do not know of a single hotrod owner or farmer that stores their fuel properly. They shut the tractor off where it was last used and there it sits until spring, in the middle of a frozen field with 1/4 tank of gasoline from the cheapest place they cold get. And if you think tractor engines are cheap you're nuts. If you think a farmer can do without a running tractor for any length of time you're nuts.

Nearly all farm tractors these days have diesel engines. And nearly all farmers run their equipment on 'Farm Diesel' which has no ethanol. Many tractors have water separators precisely because of the environment in which they live and are operated. Water in diesel is not a good thing but phase separation with respect to diesel fuel is really nothing more than water settling and does not 'pull' a required additive with it. Ethanol in 'Gas' is an Octane Booster, so when phase separation happens there, you have fuel with a lesser octane rating (not good for hot-rods...for sure).

Again, I have nothing against what you want to do, I just do not see the need.

You make some valid points...and no one would deny that most vehicles will start and run (even if not well) on old, stale gasoline. But the OP has a concern about the fuel (of unknown source and age) and simply wants to remove it. To that end...we are inclined to offer suggestions, rather than argument or disagreement. That's all.

^^^^^^^^ Expand for reply.
 
It's all good.
I know of a lot of farm tractors that are still gasoline, all older obviously.
I never understand the "make it more difficult than it has to be" way of thinking. But thats just me.
I wasn't trying to be arugumentive. Just trying to fully understand why all the extra work.

Cheers guys.
 
It's all good.
I know of a lot of farm tractors that are still gasoline, all older obviously.

Oh...they are definitely still out there. I had a Ford 2000 (3 cylinder gas model) 'back in the day' (circa early 70's).

It didn't have the 'grunt' of the diesel models, but would do most of what I needed it for.
 
Thank you @Spike555 for the BP link. It lays out some of my concerns.

@flintknapper your right about my concerns with source and age.

I did draw off 1 gallon (as stated) with fuel pump and it looked ok. But rig is sitting ass end low with slope of drive way, putting low spot to rear of tank.
 
Thank you @Spike555 for the BP link. It lays out some of my concerns.

@flintknapper your right about my concerns with source and age.

I did draw off 1 gallon (as stated) with fuel pump and it looked ok. But rig is sitting ass end low with slope of drive way, putting low spot to rear of tank.


The fuel itself (if actually gone 'bad') will have a very distinct 'varnish' smell to it. Water in the tank is another matter and could be present no matter the age. It is best to remove any fuel that is suspect. You might not have any actual concerns...but why not play it safe, since an engine swap is involved. It isn't 'extra or unnecessary' work. It is cheap insurance that you will not have any fuel related issues with the new engine.
 
The fuel itself (if actually gone 'bad') will have a very distinct 'varnish' smell to it. Water in the tank is another matter and could be present no matter the age. It is best to remove any fuel that is suspect. You might not have any actual concerns...but why not play it safe, since an engine swap is involved. It isn't 'extra or unnecessary' work. It is cheap insurance that you will not have any fuel related issues with the new engine.
Engine swap is main reason. I'll be dealing with an engine of unknown condition. I don't need fuel issues to possible complicate things.
 
I ended up pulling fuel pump, then siphon out about 9 gallons.
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I could see just a bit of metal corrosion from moisture in the tank, just at upper part of tube on pump assembly. I say normal and of no concern.
The gasket was about $12 and replacement was needed. As old was smashed and indented. Reusing would be possible but high risk of not seating properly.
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Took a good look at wires on pump. Black/White, Black.
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FSM requires connecting to leads 5 & 4, then to the battery when testing at pump. Probably due to spark concerns. Could there be some other reason?

Also you'll see wiring diagram below that FSM show black is + positive.

I could also see on fuel pump disconnect under rear DS door, wire colors without unsheathing. The positioning is different and would be a bit tricky to connect to - (negative) wire lead as is next to another lead.

Jumping in fuse box would be easier, but risk of srak or damaging fuse box would make this location safer.
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@jerryb pointed out Black is positive wire always. FSM shows reversing +- during this test (based on actual wire in photo) could just be for test, and explain why they say run no more than 10 seconds. I did not try connected battery to test as I know pump works, nor did I try connecting in reverse to pump out fuel.
 
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Howd the filter sock look?
 
I added this wire diagram here to help clear up what color code of wires. This from a 2000 LX was all I could get my hands on. There are at least some difference in the 07
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@abuck99 Ok, had some staining on bottom where it rubs on tank tub bottom, and what looked like cotton or fibrous matter that I blew off.

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After blowing out with compressed air sock looked fine
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glad you got it figured out but for future reference there would have been no issues with running that gas. MY LC has sat for much longer and our gas is full of ethanol and never had any issues.
 
BTW: it was not a 20 min job, more like 2 1/2 hour plus.

45 min parts (gasket) acquisition.
45 min remove stored stuff and rearranging cargo area. Man do I need more storage room around here.
30 min removing seats, plastic step molding, carpet, securing carpet out of the way and tooling-up.
15 min removing cover plate, brushing off parts, vacuuming & HP air blowing area clean and tooling-up.
15 min removing, capping ports & bagging. Had to gather caps, bag and tooling-up.
5 min pulling 8 bolts & pump.
90 min draining fuel. Need a bigger hose!
10 min gathering hose & components to get last gallon out.
15 min to assemble and torque down.

Seat will go in after cleaning carpet some other time, which will add 20 min.

So this is a 2 1/2 hour job if I don't count drain time or my need to arrange and store stuff.

To get that last bit in bottom at rear (I was on a hill) of tank. I added a very flexible rubber hose with weighted tip to lay on bottom. Tube size was even smaller, so even slower draining.
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