Those cool folks with the extended gas tank! (2 Viewers)

[livelarg]

Howdy all,

I am wanting to put the factory second gas tank in my 80. I see them here every now and then, saving up.

But I also want to add a wanter tank under the truck.

So......

If there is anyone out there that has the factory second tank, could you take a pic of how it sits when installed? want to see how much space is under there with the tank installed.

Thank you!

 

[gummycarbs]

The factory auxiliary tank mounts above the spare tire carrier, so you already know how much room you'd have.

 

[icorradoi]

Lot's of room. I'll try to get a better pic when I'm home, but you should be able to add a water tank and use the threaded holes from the spare tire carrier to hold the tank up.

 

[livelarg]

Nice rig!

Above the spare tire carrier? I must have a completely different idea of where it mounts.

Iccaradoi, thanks. A pic would help immensely

Tha ks

 

[george_tlc]

Lots of pic of my install and some reasonable pictures from underneath showing where and how it sits ->

Auxiliary tank

One picture from my writeup for the click lazy

I was probably one of the 1st people to install a factory subtank in my 80 in the US. Lot's of install info in the writeup above. This install used my own subtank pump transfer 'controller'. It is 'possible' to do a full factory controller install - but requires purchasing quite a few toyota OEM bits to do it. Not worth it imho, but it is possible.

cheers,
george.

 

[lugueto]

I doubt a lot of people have factory aux tanks in the US. As mentioned, the factory tank sits above the spare and has a 55l capacity I believe.

I have two 80s with aux tanks, one with 120l and the other with 100l. On both we removed the spare tire and relocated it to a rear tire carrier.

If I were to do it all again, I would've installed a Long Ranger extended tank, instead of an Aux Tank. The reason would be simplicity: no transfer pumps, no solenoids, no fancy filler neck and no additional gauges or modifications. Less capacity, sure, 50l less or more, but simplicity wins.

 

[george_tlc]

The long ranger tank (replacement of main tank) has its own problems.

1) Hangs lower than the stock tank - and that's in the 'middle' of the vehicle which is already problematic for high centering (LWB).
2) There is work involved to extend the fuel pickup/sensor stuff to correctly show tank level on the gauges etc.
3) The handbrake cable needs some relocation work due to the LR tank 'size'.

There's also some value in not putting all your fuel into a single tank.

There's NO need to add the additional gauges for the (factory) subtank. It holds about 13 US gallons, so you wait till the main is say around 1/4 to 1/3 full and just transfer the lot in one go. No different than have say 3 jerry cans and dumping them all into the main. You know the subtank is either full or empty - not too hard to remember...

cheers,
george.

 

[ThomasMore66]

So there are factory parts for the sub tank? I’d love more range.

 

[shocktower]

So there are factory parts for the sub tank? I’d love more range.

Yes like Unicorns

 

[Cruiserdrew]

The factory sub tank fits Above the spare tire so no problems with clearance.

I've had one for years and it's been great. There have been a few times (like 1 or 2) where I wish it held more gas. But in the US, even remote US, gas isn't that far away. Except in Alaska.

Factory sub tanks are pretty rare these days. But then so are aftermarket ones.

Mine also uses George's controller which has been bullet proof. I can't say the same about the crappy NAPA fuel transfer pumps I've used, but since I upgraded to a real fuel pump, it's been 100% reliable.

I use the empty full thing too. At 1/4 tank I pump the sub into the main. Other than that, I don't keep track of the level in the sub. Weirdly, my sub seems to consistently take 14 gallons from empty. Even Cruiserdan said "no way" but I've filled it enough times to know it does take 14 gallons.

It's one of the best mods for an 80. Highly recommended.

 

[greentruck]

I, too, lust after a subtank...

I would caution about using the subtank mounts to suspend further weight from. I'd think you'd want something either independent of the subtank attachments or something that would substantially add to the capacity of the existing design in order to carry more weight.

Water is heavy. You want to take this offroad, I presume, where things might be tested to their limits. And gasoline is involved. Be careful and safe.

 

[ThomasMore66]

So are they unobtanium?

 

[cruiserdan]

Weirdly, my sub seems to consistently take 14 gallons from empty. Even Cruiserdan said "no way" but I've filled it enough times to know it does take 14 gallons.

My sub takes 15.5 to fill but it only holds 13.....

You see the flapper in the neck does not fully seal off the main tank inlet. Depending on the individual neck there will be a bleed into the main from the neck union of 1 to almost 3 gallons while the sub fills. That is why the manual tells you to fill the sub first. If you fill the main first the sub takes forever to fill with 13 gallons. Land Cruiser Phil will disagree with me and I have come to terms with our conflicting views...

 

[lugueto]

The long ranger tank (replacement of main tank) has its own problems.

1) Hangs lower than the stock tank - and that's in the 'middle' of the vehicle which is already problematic for high centering (LWB).
2) There is work involved to extend the fuel pickup/sensor stuff to correctly show tank level on the gauges etc.
3) The handbrake cable needs some relocation work due to the LR tank 'size'.

There's also some value in not putting all your fuel into a single tank.

There's NO need to add the additional gauges for the (factory) subtank. It holds about 13 US gallons, so you wait till the main is say around 1/4 to 1/3 full and just transfer the lot in one go. No different than have say 3 jerry cans and dumping them all into the main. You know the subtank is either full or empty - not too hard to remember...

cheers,
george

I agree with most part, but there's no denying the work involved with fuel pickup/sensor correction and handbrake cable relocation is much simpler than the work involved for a PROPER aux tank install (gauge, transfer pump, fuel returns, evap lines etc.).

One major con is less fuel capacity, but with the OEM's tank 13 gallon capacity, the capacity of a Long Ranger would be exactly the same. All with less moving parts..

So are they unobtanium?

Almost.

 

[george_tlc]

^ Well, the gauge is not needed for a proper functioning install. Fuel returns aren't needed since it is a transfer pump so ONLY 1 line needed from the sub to the main. Evap - there is no evap needed, again it is a fuel transfer. Any 'vapor' that needs to move to/from the sub is via the 'air_pressure/return' lines that goe to the dual neck filler (i.e. the dual neck has 4 total lines, two for fuel to each tank plus two for pressure etc from each tank).

As long as one has sourced the tank and straps and dual filler (and preferably the shorter appropriate main tank hardline pipe duo) one can source an aftermarket transfer pump. After market hoses are available for all the remaining hookup.

To put the work in perspective. It took a while for me to plan out the entire process for retrofitting the subtank into our US spec 80, but once I figured out the steps and how I would implement it (with my custom transfer pump controller/electronics) I did the subtank install in one comfortable day. Basically tank installed, fuel lines/transfer pump installed and vehicle ready to drive (safely) again. 6 hours TOTAL install time and did it myself (except for my wife to hold nuts on the inside of the vehicle as I screwed the OEM transfer pump assy bolts in from below - if I had thought to put rivnuts there, then it would have been a one person job).

Rivnuts/holes for the straps etc can all be done prior since it doesn't affect the fuel system. The wiring to bring the control signals to the transfer pump can be done in a couple of hours and of course the vehicle can be driven at any time. Wiring for sub tank 'empty' can be done without having the vehicle down. All this prep work is easy and doesn't have your vehicle down. Easy at least for me.

So, essentially, once ready, the entire tank + plumbing can be done in a day in the driveway and you can drive the vehicle again. Final transfer pump wiring hookup/test etc can be done when ready with the vehicle able to be driven at any time (you just don't have a way to transfer fuel until that's done).

With a new primary tank install you do have some major work to do since you are draining the main, opening up the top to disconnect remove sender/pump assy etc. You need to disconnect all the hoses to engine and the filler system etc. Then drop the main, remove sender etc and try to get the modification/extension done correctly and then transfer to the new main. Then deal with installing the new main and figuring out what to do with the handbrake cable (a friend that installed his had a hole drilled through and new metal welded to create an 'open' channel for the handbrake cable to fit in its original position) - maybe there's a better way, maybe newer tanks have a better scheme. Anyhow, I know it took him a lot of planning and his vehicle was down for several days as he dealt with these challenges. He in fact bought a new sender assy so that the extensions could be welded in before he started the job to reduce vehicle down time.

Having seen what was involved for his install and mine, *IF* one can source the necessary subtank pieces, it is a lot easier to do and you have not compromised clearance and have a fairly stock setup. If I wanted/needed more fuel capacity I would rather just get a larger custom subtank since that space is plenty large to fit 20 - 25 gallons and still have it way tucked up out of harms way.

The bigger issue is sourcing the OEM subtank/straps/dual filler. They were super common in oz - since every petrol 80 came with them. Pulled by installers when they were doing anLPG conversion - which was also very common due to being a LOT cheaper than petrol. Also, a lot of folk would do long range subtank installs, so subtanks/straps were common (obviously the dual filler would not be pulled in that case). But, 80's are way old over there now, so that 'spare parts' market is pretty well dried up. My subtank + entire set of parts was ex-oz, I bought them from Marv(specter) himself many years ago, he was going to install the system into his 80, but my oz accent must have wooed him (plus the $$ ) to sell the lot to me. Came with the gauge, but I didn't want to install, so sold it off to a mud member a few yrs back now.

cheers,
george.

 

[cruiserdan]

As a footnote the sender arc for the sub us the same as the main. I have a switch that toggles the sender feeds so I can see the levels in both tanks on the main gauge.

 

[george_tlc]

^ Yes, that was my original plan (put a toggle switch to read either tank) since the resistance range of both the main & sub is the same (I'm sure that is what you meant by 'sender arc' )

But, then got too lazy, the sub is either full or empty

cheers,
george.

 

[cruiserdan]

George you are the EE, I am the hack.

I think you were the one that put me on to that in the first place

 

[cruiserdan]

My hacked rear heater switch.

 

[fj4068]

I can't say the same about the crappy NAPA fuel transfer pumps I've used, but since I upgraded to a real fuel pump, it's been 100% reliable.

What's the replacement unit brand and p/n? After a decade of gathering dust, I recently installed mine with that first NAPA pump you used. Hopefully she won't croak just when I need her.