Can I tow 9000lbs with an FJ80 with a 350? (1 Viewer)

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See my post 26, everything else doesn’t matter.

I still agree with this. What you can do and what you should do are often at odds. There is no question in my mind this is a definite SHOULD NOT DO.
 
See my post 26, everything else doesn’t matter.

Exactly.

You can drop any motor you like in the engine bay, but you aren't the vehicle it came from. Not wheelbase, not axle width, not brakes, and ESPECIALLY not the little sticker stating exactly the limit Mr. T paid to get from the government.

You can easily rent a real truck meant to tow.


--Or almost better stated to show how much this is a bad idea - how about we take an ultimate tow rig like a Chevy 3500 diesel 2wd dually long wheelbase out into Moab?

Really, it has tires so it'll work **just fine**, right?
 
I would say yes, if you use common sense and possess a strong sense of self preservation. Tow vehicles owned by the laity didn’t always come with a 150” WB, a roided out Diesel engine and massive brakes.
 
Exactly.

You can drop any motor you like in the engine bay, but you aren't the vehicle it came from. Not wheelbase, not axle width, not brakes, and ESPECIALLY not the little sticker stating exactly the limit Mr. T paid to get from the government.

You can easily rent a real truck meant to tow.


--Or almost better stated to show how much this is a bad idea - how about we take an ultimate tow rig like a Chevy 3500 diesel 2wd dually long wheelbase out into Moab?

Really, it has tires so it'll work **just fine**, right?
Cheby 3500 Diesel = Ultimate tow rig??
 
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I towed my fj40 on a heavy duty car dolly equipped with brakes with a fj60. Fj60s are lighter and smaller. It did so so but I took it easy, especially going down the passes. When I pull the same load with my 80, I will also take it easy. I believe it will pull better than the 60. If not it's going up for sale. Trailer brakes are important.
 
It might be able to pull the load, but sure as hell wont stop it. I think stopping is a little more important

The location matters a lot too. 35mph down the flats vs carving up and down mountain passes.
 
So don't get me wrong not arguing, just discussing the points mentioned...

My 80 brakes amazingly, I have new master and calipers all the way around, braided lines, hawk super duty pads front, LTS rear, and dot 4 fluid. Pulling the 2k trailer empty without trailer brakes it still brakes well. The trailer has brakes on both axles and I have a brake controller. The trailer is 18' cqt hauler so I can position my car several feet back and forth to control the tongue weight and distribution.

To compare with a Yukon, which towed it well and people say a 1/2 ton isn't the best to use but i'm happy with it so I feel the cruiser should be fine. Wheelbase is close, overall weight is close, and the cruiser has heavier duty axles. Also when towing with the Yukon I did not use a distribution hitch either.

Like I said not arguing, I just want to continue the discussion and address the points, not just the "don't do that it's dumb" which doesn't help. Also I'm only wanting to do 6k not 10k like the OP which I feel isn't that extreme cosine ring I'm taking steps to mitigate weaknesses.
 
In the spirit of discussion:)

To recap briefly, for the US market Toyota's published maximum towing capacity is 5,000 lbs. As a student of our litigious society I assert that it would be ill-advised to exceed that unless you are absolutely certain that you are NEVER going to experience an equipment failure or motor vehicle incident of any kind while towing a load exceeding that number.

It is sad but true that we live in a world loaded with people actively seeking deep pockets to pick.......:frown:
 
^^^ and that makes the most sense. I was looking at the physical aspects but the legal implications are important too of course.

I guess I could sell my cruiser and get a diesel tow rig. Has anyone tried to sell an LS swapped cruiser yet? Wonder how much they're going for...
 
It really pisses me off that other users of the road, would deliberately put every other life around them at risk by overloading their equipment for the sake of expediency.

An 80 towing 5000 pounds is already overloaded. An 80 towing 6000 pounds is UNSAFE. You cant predict when something unexpected will happen and what seemed "ok" is now a fatality for someone. Just because you might get away with it once, changes nothing.

Tow with a real truck built to tow heavy loads. An 80 is not that truck.
 
My personal opinion beyond the VERY valid point of our culture in USA of lawyers/litigation:

Go tow 4500#'s with your 80.
Now tell me you think it's safe to DOUBLE that.
Now google the math on braking lengths for that mass/inertia.

Add a light shower or a flat tire. Or a random idiot cel phone call or drunk on the road.

A non-S/C'd 1FZ is nearly out of its' element just doing 4500# on level interstate where you actually can get cars to leave you 150' to the car in front of you, and you need to alerty plan your freeway entrances & exits with our limited power & braking.

My boat/trailer is 4K# wet, bare. My tandem axle trailer has the inertia brakes that are in good operating cond (did fluid & pads <2yrs ago) & my 10ply tires are newer.

I got the Tundra mainly so towing was no longer being performed by the 80.

It's absolutely asinine to tow over 5K on a 80, mechanically & legally.
 
Tow with a real truck built to tow heavy loads. An 80 is not that truck.

Our shop truck.
20171122_154053.jpg
 
Again with the "that's dumb" arguement. Also, I'm not towing 9k (4500 doubled was mentioned) Technically I'm wanting to tow about 5500, 2k trailer plus 3500 car which may lose weight as it is made more track ready, I'm just rounding up. And anything unexpected can happen anytime, including not towing, so never leave the house?

If we want to get down to it, we do lots of things that weren't designed to be done. Fitting oversized tires and bashing rocks wasn't exactly in mr. T''s mind either when these were put on showrooms but seem to do a pretty good job of it. Most of the cars tearing up the road course also weren't designed to average over 100 as they are pushed to their limit and have yet to witness an engineering defect there.

I appreciate the discussion, everyone's points are taken.
 
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That's a beast of a truck, wish I could afford! I could put my 80, race car and trailer on amother trailer and that thing wouldnt even feel it!

Even if I could afford it, buying that for my towing needs would be like the majority of people that buy Land Cruisers for their transportation needs, gross overkill.
 
If we want to get down to it, we do lots of things that weren't designed to be done. Fitting oversized tires and bashing rocks wasn't exactly in mr. T''s mind either when these were put on showrooms but seem to do a pretty good job of it.

I appreciate the discussion, everyone's points are taken.

Custom mods are a whole other can o' worms.

Would you prefer we start having TUV cert's like Germany?
I'm sure our government would love to accommodate.

This whole thing boils down to possible vs. capable- and while possible the capable thing has been decided by the DOT /your max tow stated in owner manual.
It's such a gaping risk where even another vehicle could cause the wreck you get into, or even the random deer / cow / idiot animal in the road.
 
Custom mods are a whole other can o' worms.

Would you prefer we start having TUV cert's like Germany?
I'm sure our government would love to accommodate.

This whole thing boils down to possible vs. capable- and while possible the capable thing has been decided by the DOT /your max tow stated in owner manual.
It's such a gaping risk where even another vehicle could cause the wreck you get into, or even the random deer / cow / idiot animal in the road.

Certainly not! But I could understand why, with all the backyard jobs done, like the Hondas with stretched tires and -45° camber jobs.

But anyways risk with anything. My point is that you change capacity with the right mods. Just like off road capabilities increased with tires and lift. There has to also be a way to safely increase towing capacity.
 
^^^^ Sure. Airbags.

I have 'em on the 5.7 Tundra, they help since my lift leaf springs compress nice & easy. If I end up in a 'decide' situation I'll keep the Tundra & add a Sequoia TC & a rear locker, because towing has become so much better I just can't go backwards.
Towing boat > wheeling locally

But I still know if I exceed the weight ratings paid for, I open myself to a lawsuit after a MVA, so I'd be out the boat, my 80, all my toys. Just not worth it.
 
My point is that you change capacity with the right mods. Just like off road capabilities increased with tires and lift. There has to also be a way to safely increase towing capacity.

Sorry, but this is very incorrect. NOTHING you do will change that sticker on the door. You can beef up the hitch, add airbags, more robust rims/tires, brake controller, WDH, etc. All these do is make your rig SAFER to tow. But the capacity will NEVER change.

I am not the weight police, go to a RV forum for that and see some real "fun". They make it seem like you cannot tow anything in a 1-ton diesel. But I have towed countless miles in an 80, 100, and diesel trucks. The 80 gave me numerous white knuckle experiences and lacked power. The 100 has a 6500 cap and it was miserable to tow a 60. I currently have a Cummins for tow duties, no issues.

Your legal options are to tow lighter or upgrade your truck.
 

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