FJ60 Door Refresh (1 Viewer)

[John Staton]

Ok, so I am working on my 1983 FJ60 I purchased about a month ago. Some of the windows are hard to roll up and I am going to go through each door and clean up the inside and lubricate the mechanisms. I bet a lot of folks have done this and here are my questions.

1. What parts would you replace with each door outside of the panel clips of course? I did already order 4 of the little plastic discs that fit behind each window roller.

2. I have one door and it sounds like the glass is loose...works fine, but if I can order the fix for that before I take it apart that would be great...any ideas?

3. any other advise before I start this project.

Also, something I found out and will pass along. When I got her one of the locks would not work. I ordered some lock spray from amazon, which is graphite based. It fixed the one that was not working and I went ahead and sprayed all of them. Consequently, the driver side door lock would not turn...grrrr. I talked to a lock smith and he told me to not used graphite spray in warm climates like Texas. He also said that mixing graphite and WD40 makes glue. His suggestion was to spray brake cleaner in the lock and run my key in and out of it. I did that and it worked. Lesson- if it aint broke, dont fix it.

 

[micruz60]

Drivers door window regulator is usually the first to go, so, while you're there...

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Quick question while people are looking at this thread. Passenger front window will roll down with all controls but will not will up from drivers main switch panel. Swapped switch panel and same issue.

What would cause the passenger front to not roll up from the drivers side?

I should probably pull out the fsm wiring schematic and review.

 

[georgebj60]

Sorry I can't be of much help as I have yet to tackle my doors, but may I ask where you purchased the 4 discs for the window crank handles?

 

[MACFJ60]

I’ve replaced the regulators, tracks and felt on all 4 doors of my 87. It made a huge difference not only in ease of operation but also made it much quieter at freeway speeds.

 

[John Staton]

Sorry I can't be of much help as I have yet to tackle my doors, but may I ask where you purchased the 4 discs for the window crank handles?

I order parts from www.sor.com

That is where I got the blow up parts chart above. I was missing a crank when I got the truck and noticed the disc in the diagram and ordered the crank and 4 of the disks at the same time. They are small plastic disks that would take the friction as you crank verses rubbing against the fabric.

 

[John Staton]

I’ve replaced the regulators, tracks and felt on all 4 doors of my 87. It made a huge difference not only in ease of operation but also made it much quieter at freeway speeds.

Ok, so I can order the regulators in sets for the two front doors...I may do that. Question on the felt- where did you order. SOR has a new felt listed but says its not designed to be installed with original chrome strip, which of course I would like. It reads like you can use them if you use the original clips but I am not sure. Here is what it says

Outer Window Felt Kit Fits 8/80 to 1/90 60 and 62 Series vehicles. This kit has the 4 pieces for all 4 passenger doors. Designed to be installed without the chrome trim. These felts have an embedded steel support for strength. If the original chrome trim is desired, these felts would need to be installed with the original retailer clips from your vehicle's doors. The clips provided with these new felts are not designed for use with the chrome trim.

 

[g-man]

the weatherstrip is worn out. part 30 and 34 in your blow up image. I think there is an older thread on here where someone took there old stuff into napa store and just matched up with aftermarket. Prob a lot cheaper to go that route.

The clips that hold the fuzzy and rubber to the outer chrome trim ( i think they are really stainless) pieces are going to be holding very tight and they are going to be brittle. I would bet you would break most of them if you tried to take them off your original outer trim piece. And be careful if you take these outer trim pieces off the door.. that you don't break the tabs while flexing them to remove.

 

[joebattle1]

I desperately need to do this on most if not all of my windows.

 

[Cincodemustache]

Ok, so I can order the regulators in sets for the two front doors...I may do that. Question on the felt- where did you order. SOR has a new felt listed but says its not designed to be installed with original chrome strip, which of course I would like. It reads like you can use them if you use the original clips but I am not sure. Here is what it says

Outer Window Felt Kit Fits 8/80 to 1/90 60 and 62 Series vehicles. This kit has the 4 pieces for all 4 passenger doors. Designed to be installed without the chrome trim. These felts have an embedded steel support for strength. If the original chrome trim is desired, these felts would need to be installed with the original retailer clips from your vehicle's doors. The clips provided with these new felts are not designed for use with the chrome trim.

Any update if you were able to retain the chrome trim? I am doing this same job when parts arrive and I want to keep the chrome along the window belts. Thanks!

 

[Rob Faucett]

Did you replace the plastic "liner" that goes between the door panel and the door? Is there a reason not to just use a heavy duty plastic sheet product? Also, what is the best chemical magic to clean-up the black Urethane adhesive hell sauce? Thanks for posting. Helpful.

 

[morganism]

Goo Gone is best for sticky stuff. U can try any citrus based cleaner, or get started with cooking oil.

You should order a couple of the little plastic connector clips you see connecting the wires to the lock mech, they snap pretty easily. While door is open, look at back of exterior door handle, and see if you see any cracks too. You should also have three bolts holding the window regulator by the window handle. Only place you want ANY grease is the big center pivot on the regulator. Everything else should get dry type lube, spray on fine. You should not even buy any WD40, unless you are trying to dry out an interior mechanism. Water Displacement Formula 40. Strips protective lubricants, and is just for drying metals.

 

[gregnash]

Plastic is nothing more than a vapor barrier to help keep condensation out of the inside of the cab (basically keeping the elements out). Mine has been gone for quite some time however, I have nice large "rust vapor holes" in my door to allow the condensation to escape!

Funny that this popped up, I am replacing the drivers door on BeBe finally.

 

[John Staton]

Thanks for the pics and adding....I still have not done this and I have a set of speakers that I want to put in as well. Nice to get to see the inside of the door. My passenger side rattles when you shut it like the window is loose on the inside. Only one that does that. Wish I knew what it was so I could order the parts before I take it apart.....that is the goal, open her up, fix her and button back up the same day. Wonder if you can order the plastic...guess you could just cut a piece of thick drop cloth painters plastic.

 

[micruz60]

While door is open, look at back of exterior door handle, and see if you see any cracks too.

This is a good idea, replace before it breaks, drivers door gets the most use.

 

[Rob Faucett]

Is there any reason to clean the urethane before replace the plastic barrier? Maybe it doesn't matter?

 

[FJ40Jim]

Hopefully there is enough of the sticky black snot to just stick the new plastic to it, then trim any excess plastic. No need to get the snot off there, just to reapply.

 

[Rob Faucett]

Yeah

Hopefully there is enough of the sticky black snot to just stick the new plastic to it, then trim any excess plastic. No need to get the snot off there, just to reapply.

I think you're right, thanks. I tend to clean for no reason. 8 O

 

[micruz60]

Is there any reason to clean the urethane before replace the plastic barrier? Maybe it doesn't matter?

I've left it on mine when rehabbing the door guts, just try to peel any plastic leftovers and add a butyl type sealant tape anywhere it needs it, the original stuff is pretty durable.

Dangit, Jim beat me to the advise.

 

[g-man]

Ok. I'll add that you should buy about 4 packages of these push type plastic retainers. Replace your old squashed, bent worn out ones as necessary. They will come in handy on the rear quarter interior panels as well as the tailgate panel

20x Door Panel Trim Moulding Retainer Push-Type Rivet for 86-87 Toyota Corolla | eBay