Builds Introducing FZJ 80 "Dingo" (1 Viewer)

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How do your secure your chain saw to the rear tire area? And does it stay stored pretty well there?
I've got an old rucksack on the tire I use for trash. It is secured with heavy duty webbing and the saw fit right behind the ruck, secured by the webbing. Only issues were the saw leaking a bit of oil on the ruck and the rear of the truck collecting dust.
Funny thing about those pics, we needed the saw and it died after the first cut. Brand new stihl. Had to cut branches by hand.
 
Hi Maria
Happy to help with your rig.maybe we can build you some drawers. Wheels are just spray painted with rustoleum, about 20 bucks. Roof rack is designed for land cruiser, there may be a model for your vehicle too.
Bumpers were new after I painted.
Sweet! Looking forward to some changes.
 
After our last trip I was determined to gain better access to the rear cargo area. I rebuilt the drawers and fridge slide to incorporate our new Waeco/Dometic fridge and built a fold out kitchen (photos of that later). A broken latch incident (dreaded 30 cent plastic clip failure) resulted in trailside cargo removal to gain access to the latch from the inside. The new box was taller and I wanted to access the useful space on either side. My sliding windows were not sliding so well and I needed greater opening space.

On return I looked longingly at the Land Cruiser Products cargo hatches, but had no budget for two of Land Cruiser Phil's awesome lift up windows.
So, after some research and a bit of material testing I decided on the following:
Panels are 1/2" King Starboard marine grade HDPE. Cuts with woodworking tools (jig saw, hole saw, router)
Latches are Whitecap T3226BC (locking)
Gas struts are from Apexstone (Amazon)
Hinges are standard cabinet hinges from Ace
Weatherstrip is from eBay
LED strip lights from SuperbrightLEDs

Total cost for two hatches: $225.
By no means are they in the same league as Phil's but I think they will work for me.
Some photos are attached:
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Since I sold my trailer, I concentrated on making the back of Dingo more efficient for meal prep, etc. A mate bought me a new fridge for helping him with his rig (and storing it while he was overseas). I decided to build a pull out/flip out kitchen using one of my rear drawers. Attached are a couple kitchen pictures.
The Camp Chef Everest stove is fantastic. And the Waeco/Dometic 65 fridge has both fridge and freezer.
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After our last trip I was determined to gain better access to the rear cargo area. I rebuilt the drawers and fridge slide to incorporate our new Waeco/Dometic fridge and built a fold out kitchen (photos of that later). A broken latch incident (dreaded 30 cent plastic clip failure) resulted in trailside cargo removal to gain access to the latch from the inside. The new box was taller and I wanted to access the useful space on either side. My sliding windows were not sliding so well and I needed greater opening space.

On return I looked longingly at the Land Cruiser Products cargo hatches, but had no budget for two of Land Cruiser Phil's awesome lift up windows.
So, after some research and a bit of material testing I decided on the following:
Panels are 1/2" King Starboard marine grade HDPE. Cuts with woodworking tools (jig saw, hole saw, router)
Latches are Whitecap T3226BC (locking)
Gas struts are from Apexstone (Amazon)
Hinges are standard cabinet hinges from Ace
Weatherstrip is from eBay
LED strip lights from SuperbrightLEDs

Total cost for two hatches: $225.
By no means are they in the same league as Phil's but I think they will work for me.
Some photos are attached:
View attachment 1572695 View attachment 1572696 View attachment 1572697 View attachment 1572698
Windows keep a seal? No water leakage?
 
After our last trip I was determined to gain better access to the rear cargo area...

looks great!
any details on the struts themselves? length? lift specs?
 
Dingo Update 2018
A few more modifications:
Outback Swags-Pioneer Swag-great for rapid trailside camping
Amazon sourced awning and poles
Some photos of slide out kitchen
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Some photos of the continued evolution of storage.
Front Runner water tank with tap at the tailgate
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Finally a couple of glamour shots of Dingo on the trail. In and around the Black Rock Desert, Nevada
Cheers
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Love this whole build!
 
Looks awesome!

I am in the same boat with my new 450. It is the gold over silver paint scheme, flares will come off soon, and then a tan paint job. The wife won't go for bed liner on the body, but i will shoot it with an industrial paint that I have used on my 69 F100 and a canopy for my 12 valve Dodge.

Could you post a pic from the side that shows the whole rig? I have the same lift and am looking at 315s vs 255s in the KM2. The 255s fit okay on the stock alloy wheels?

I just noticed the vintage "4wheeldrive" emblem on the liftgate! I have the same one from my 1st FJ40 I bought at age 17 (25 years ago) and planned to put it on the back of mine... COOL!

What is this industrial paint you mention? and how did it come out?
 
What is this industrial paint you mention? and how did it come out?

It is a machinery paint. I bought it from a local (PNW) paint supplier called Cloverdale. Any good paint company should have a version of it. The one I used is a quick drying variety that is perfect for someone without a booth as you limit the time that dust etc can stick. The only real issue is getting a good “wet” coat to get the sheen uniform. My 80 wasn’t perfect,but it wasn’t gold anymore either:)

Before and after:

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The Dingo is looking great Sherm!
 
Dingo Update:
In November we traveled to Canyonlands NP and spent a week on some tough trails. A lot of fun despite one broken axle on a Disco, one broken ignition switch on an 80 and my power steering hose rupturing.
Dingo is running great with the SC and I got around 15 mpg on the highway.
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