the Sandlot a Bantam T3C resto-mod (1 Viewer)

[half k cruiser]

So the big thing left to do now is undercoat with POR-15, have the tube and fenders media blasted, then shoot the liner. However, before we move on to that I want to make sure any modifications I am going to make get taken care of. Once the liner is shot the design may as well be set in stone. Some ideas that I had

- a rear receiver- in case I want to add a tailgate buddy for additional storage.
- a removable basket over the draw bars, for adding tongue weight and additional storage.
- e-track or l-track strips down the inside wall, for anchor points or setting dividers.
- some sort of lid and locking system for the tailgate.

I originally wanted to use my tube bender and make some protection for the fenders that could also double as gas can storage. However, I'm not sure I want to go that route. I really like the classic lines of this trailer and don't really want to ruin the look.

 

[ntsqd]

I'd avoid using a socket receiver for a "wheel-less trailer" as that puts the weight in the wrong place. I have used the one at the rear of our TrailBlazer camper trailer for a bike rack.

For a removable basket on the tongue you might consider using some of these: Autofab Hood Pin Kit with Leash

I'd put the pins on the bottom of the basket and the urethane bits in brackets on the tongue.

 

[half k cruiser]

I'd avoid using a socket receiver for a "wheel-less trailer" as that puts the weight in the wrong place. I have used the one at the rear of our TrailBlazer camper trailer for a bike rack.

I'm not sure i'm following you. Are you saying that having the hitch buddy loaded and hanging off the back is going to disturb the weight balance too far to the rear of the trailer ?

 

[ntsqd]

Yes, it easily can.

 

[half k cruiser]

Yes, it easily can.

Thanks for the heads up, I hadn't really thought about that. I may still add the hitch just to have the option later, I could always haul lightweight stuff like clothes or sleeping gear. Or maybe balance it out by adding a bit more forward ballast. More than likely a lid with a rooftop basket on it is in the future.

 

[half k cruiser]

Not a lot going with the trailer lately. I've been trying to do just a little bit each day. Today I went out and finished burning in the receiver. The triangular piece is 1/4'' plate and I laid 3 passes in everywhere you see a weld. There is nothing on the underside of the 2.5'' tube and I don't think it will need any additional reinforcement.

 

[half k cruiser]

It was about 5 degrees in the shop today. The diesel heater didn't want to start on the first go but finally got it running and kicked the place up to a balmy 70. I was tired of holding the trailer up with a piece of lawn timber. A trip to the local trailer supply netted a Ram mount for the front.

I followed that up with re-installing the tailgate

Then I decided to give the factory stake pockets the axe so I can make the mounting system for the bows and any future additions

I might use some of my Xmas money to buy a tank of gas for the little welder. It's very difficult to weld sheet metal with .035 flux core. Some gas and .023 wire should make the body repairs a lot easier

 

[half k cruiser]

A few weeks ago I pulled the hubs and started the rebuild process. They were caked in the nastiest old grease I've ever seen. Tracking down parts was a pain due to old superseded part numbers. I got it figured out though. Here's the DS hub getting stripped down, new RH thread wheel studs pressed in, and a fresh set of spindle bearings all coated in Lucas Red N' Tacky.

 

[half k cruiser]

Currently waiting on new bearings and races for the PS. One of the bearings and both of the races were pitted. I still don't understand why trailer hubs require redneck adjustement rather than having an actual torque value. The previous owner had obviously set the preload with a hammer and chisel.

 

[half k cruiser]

Instead of ordering the Timken's I thought I was paying for CARQUEST got me National Bearing brand. It should read international bearing because the 2 rollers and 2 cones were all from different countries. There was a Japanese made KOYO in there and I used it for the PS inner along with a race made in Spain. The outer race is Chinese made and I opted to put one of the old bearings back in until I can get something a genuine Timken.

The rotating assembly is all buttoned up for now though. The hubs are sorted and I replaced the rotted old tires with brand new Kumho AT51's in 30x9.50 R15. After that we took it for its first run around the yard since winter set in.

 

[ntsqd]

FWIW, I long ago quit buying bearings from auto parts stores. My local Applied Industrial has the books needed to look up automotive applications when I can't bring them either the bearing number or the bearing.

 

[half k cruiser]

I did some measuring on the receiver and decided it was out of square with the axle by 1/4'' - 1/2'' so it went away. I also decided to lengthen the tongue after a conversation I had with the local trailer guru. The extra length also allows for a tongue basket to load additional supplies.

After finishing up with that it was time to move onto the coachwork. The side panels were full of holes from "extras" that previous owners had put in. Since I couldn't find a welding spoon anywhere local, I decided to make my own.

 

[half k cruiser]

Once the holes were filled and sanded I coated all of the bare metal in primer.

Brake lights are mounted and just need to be wired. I'm hoping to get a test run in today and see if this thing even pulls straight down the road.

 

[love2fly]

If I was close you could of used all of my welding equipment to include several copper spoons sizes. You have done real well and it looks super cool. Looks like your almost will be completely done soon.
Nice job

 

[half k cruiser]

ow I was able to finish up the wiring harness the other day and get everything dialed in. It took me a bit to figure out how to take a 4 wire into a 7 wire plug due to the colors not matching up.

Yesterday I replaced the PS outer wheel bearing with a fresh Timken unit. Torqued all wheel studs to 60lb-ft. Installed hangers for the wiring harness. I then bolted up the KYB shocks. After that I rapidly ran out of reasons to stall, so I hooked it to the wife's Lexus and took off.

I did throw five 315 tires back there to give it some weight and keep the bounce down. Whether by design or sheer luck the trailer actually tracks my wife's car perfectly around corners. It was a little bouncy but I think the tires were a bit more of a dynamic load then I was originally thinking. With a couple hundred pounds of static loaded camping gear I'm hoping it will settle down a bit. I have never driven anything with a pintle hitch before, so I don't know if its normal, or my lack of trailer driving skills, but this thing is a bastard to back in. I tried several attempts in an abandoned parking lot and once it starts to make its turn it just keeps going despite what you do with the wheel.

 

[scrapdaddy]

I have never driven anything with a pintle hitch before, so I don't know if its normal, or my lack of trailer driving skills, but this thing is a bastard to back in. I tried several attempts in an abandoned parking lot and once it starts to make its turn it just keeps going despite what you do with the wheel.

She's just a short trailer. The longer the easier to back up. Looks good.

 

[half k cruiser]

I did notice one small issue; the grease zerks on the DS of the trailer are not useable. I replaced with new ones but still can't get anything to pass through.

 

[love2fly]

Were did you say you got your wheel bearing? I am about to replace all of mine as of last year crossed lots of streams and my bearing got sand in pasted the seal. I had a list from a while back but now lost it, most was from Napa auto parts. Not bad but due replacement. Any parts numbers?

 

[half k cruiser]

Were did you say you got your wheel bearing? I am about to replace all of mine as of last year crossed lots of streams and my bearing got sand in pasted the seal. I had a list from a while back but now lost it, most was from Napa auto parts. Not bad but due replacement. Any parts numbers?

Cheapest place I found the bearings was Amazon

PN's Bantam hub rebuild w/ new part numbers

 

[ntsqd]

I buy bearings from my local bearing house. Places like Motion Industries, Kaman Bearing, or Applied Industrial. Haven't bought a bearing from an auto parts store in 20+ years because I ran into this same sort of problem then.