1FZ engine building and blueprinting (1 Viewer)

[Malleus]

Crankshaft time.
Lots of measurements. Crank is awesome in many ways, lacking in two (discuss later). main bearings are perfect, like new. See pic and all were identical, both cap and bottom. Any scratches are just from me.
Very good reason for this:
Crank was dead straight, I mounted in block on front and rear bearing only as I don't have any V blocks. I tried and tried but I could not get even 1/10,000 of runout on any journal. Exceptional.
Then I measured crank main journals with a micrometer, each one measured on 4 axis, I won't post total results as each one came out identical at 68.97 mm. Also exceptional and is why bearings were perfect. However a crank marked #2 should be a journal of 68.988-68.994 so I must be doing something wrong, micing too tight?
I also bore gauged all the journal holes but I have to recheck as the oil clearance is not making sense. Will calibrate my mic and bore gauge and check again.
View attachment 1461840

A little late to the party, but...
What is the temperature and humidity where you're measuring? Ideally it should be between 50-60°, with low (like 40%), but stable, humidity. Anything closer that 0.001" needs to be done in a closely controlled environment, especially when cast iron/steel is involved. That's why machine shops have gauge labs.

BTW, "°" (the degree symbol) is ALT+0176 on the numeric keypad

 

[Malleus]

So why haven't more people massaged these things for more power? I've been contemplating an LS swap, but I'd like to stay Toyota. I'm super intrigued by this tread.

I had read somewhere else that the valves were a bit shrouded and that cleaning that up made a nice difference. Combine with cams and I'd hope this thing could run better. More HP would be so nice.

Because it was designed to be a rock crawler, not a drag racer. The limiting factor in engine performance, at the wheels, isn't the engine. It's the geartrain. You have to be careful with the engine work. It's far easier to build an engine that will perform well on a dyno, than to put that engine in the truck and keep the gearteeth intact. Just sayin'...

 

[Malleus]

Before I left I cc'ed some volumes, only did one of each as I will do all when matching during build. Might be out a bit as I didn't use a cover, but probably by not more than a cc or so.
Combustion chamber 72 cc
Piston dish 13 cc
Individual intake port from valve to port divider 36 cc each
Intake port above divider (services both valves) 40 cc
Total intake port 112 cc
Individual exhaust port from valve to port divider 22 cc each
Exhaust port above divider (services both valves) 52.5 cc
Total exhaust port 96.5 cc
Interesting stuff, I guess they are after speeding velocity until divider and then improving flow., for better low end. Anyone ever flow tested a stock head? If so send me results please.
With these numbers, and 0.053 gasket at 101mm. and 0.005 below deck piston (an average of all my measurements), I get a static compression ratio of 8.7/1.
If we input stock cam specs ( IVC @ 9 deg ABDC) the dynamic (actual compression ratio) is 8.5/1.
If I use a stage 1 (mildest) aftermarket cam spec (IVC @ 39.5 ABDC)the Dynamic compression of 7.5/1.
Not sure my compression ratio yet but definitely more than this, although I must be able to run 87 octane for Baja so may have to adjust timing with octane rating or have water/meth injection.

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Since you're getting picky with your measurements, @scottryana is right about the Lexan. With your method you're overmeasuring due to meniscus.

 

[hazard]

A little late to the party, but...
What is the temperature and humidity where you're measuring? Ideally it should be between 50-60°, with low (like 40%), but stable, humidity. Anything closer that 0.001" needs to be done in a closely controlled environment, especially when cast iron/steel is involved. That's why machine shops have gauge labs.

BTW, "°" (the degree symbol) is ALT+0176 on the numeric keypad

Yes I know, depends on what I am shooting for. Thanks for the degree keyboard,

 

[hazard]

Since you're getting picky with your measurements, @scottryana is right about the Lexan. With your method you're overmeasuring due to meniscus.

I will be doing it properly when I get down to the final build. I eyeballed and considered meniscus and I was pretty close to stock as that's all I need at this stage. I will likely be having to remove material from compression chamber so all that will be done after.

 

[bugsnbikes]

updates? (need my hi-po fix)

 

[ThomasMore66]

updates? (need my hi-po fix)

X2.

 

[hazard]

Just getting back from visiting my 80 in Baja.
Will be posting soon.
Pistons may be waiting for me. Will be measuring new Crower cams etc.
Cheers

 

[ThomasMore66]

I’m curious about the cams. Been talking to Robbie Antonson about rebuilding my engine. We talked cams and he wasn’t to excited about a change, feeling that the stock cams put the power in the right rpm range. Curious how it works out for you.

 

[hazard]

To be honest I think stock cams are probably right for a stock engine, and I’m not even sure that these cams will be right for mine. I have been trying to find a “true” custom cam designer, there are really only a few and most others are just grinding the same thing. Ideally every engine parts combo would require slightly different cam profile, which would also be designed around ones proffered torque peak.
I need something more than stock as this is going to be a large stroker requiring more air, if I can’t get reasonably priced help for a “true” custom grind, I will probably have to try and calculate what would be closest for my desired outcome and then search the offerings, of which there really aren’t that many.

 

[ThomasMore66]

After spending months going over options I think I really want to keep the 1FZ. I don't have the time in my life to go down your path so I think having someone like Robbie overhaul the engine gets me to the right place. I also think boost is a good option since I have altitude issues at my house in CO that really curb the HP. I'm hoping that @scottryana comes through on the turbo kit and then I can add that to the mix. Robbie said we could add a different head gasket and different head bolts to account for future boost.

However, the hot-rodder in me really likes your stroker. Now go put that thing together so we can all see what happens.

 

[hazard]

I agree boost is the cheapest way, and probably easiest for altitude. I just wanted to stay na for simplicity and to see what useable power was possible without. I really want to get going but as Scott told me in the beginning gathering parts for this oddball takes time. Pistons should arrive shortly but I have no idea how long for crank and rods. Another problem I have is that I live in a remote area so all is by mail order and there are no machine shops here. I think it is going to take many months yet. The machine shops I have talked to all wanted to deck from pan rails and that doesn’t work for me as I know they are not perfectly aligned with crank.
I plan to reference everything from the cap mating surfaces once I fererence them from the crank. Then align pan rails to cap surfaces. But now I need to find a shop that will agree and work with me.
If this were a small block Chen it would be easy as there are many matching jigs available. This engine is harder to do a perfect blueprint unless you have time and bucks.

 

[scottryana]

@hazard Have you seen these new valves offered by Ferrea? Since you are going with all lightweight rods and pistons it would make sense you would want a light valvetrain these are about as light as you can get. lol.

 

[hazard]

Thanks
I am going with light valvetrain. I plan to keep revs low, below 6,500, and lower spring pressure with light valvetrain. This in order for more efficiency. As a great deal of engine turnover friction is from valvetrain I see this as a good measure. I measured turnover torque with and without head, huge difference. However most of it is from spring pressure. Light valves with the same pressure won’t help this, but will allow more revs before float, but that is not my concern.
I didn’t know about these so will definitely look into as I will order valves soon.
Thanks

 

[hazard]

Custom (my design) JE pistons just got here, works of art and cost like art. 102 mm bore by 114 stroke.
Complete with pin, locks and ringset weight is at 456.6 grams as opposed to stock of 776.3. A savings of 319.7 grams per hole. Huge savings but it all looks so fragile compared to stock, hard to imagine it would have the strength and longevity of stock, but we will see.
That's a savings of 4.2 pounds of rotating mass, and titanium rods yet to come! Should be worth something, I hope. Pistons have heat and friction coating, land contact reduction grooves and more. Pins are oiled from oil ring holes, pin boss holes, and a slot from side. Larger dish than stock but haven't measured yet, trying for 10:1. I made skirts just narrow enough to clear oil squirters, JE said it would be plenty of skirt.
Rods and crank are still a few weeks out so won't be able to do much until mid January as I am off to Baja again.

 

[scottryana]

Haha! Yeah that pin looks so ridiculous compared to stock! What size is that? 0.828" I just picked up another set of rods for another project with C350 pins that are only 0.787" and you are absolutely right compared to the 1FZ stuff it looks completely anemic!! Looks great.

 

[bjowett]

I have some valves that might (?) work for you... Toyota/Lexus UR Series V8 valves. They come in several materials depending on the engine... and titanium is on that list. Exhaust is 32mm and the intake is 38mm. Stems are 5.5mm, less weight, more flow. Lengths... exhaust is 106, intake 110mm. They could likely be shortened to the appropriate length for the 1FZ. The 38mm Ti intakes are an absolute bargain. The biggest question to me is if the guides and seats will be compatible with the head... large enough OD.

 

[scottryana]

That is interesting that the Exhaust valve would be smaller than the 1FZ. 32mm vs 35mm, but the intake is the same size at 38mm. I kind of think they wouldn't make the guides large enough to fit the 1FZ head since the stems are 7mm, but you never know.

 

[bjowett]

Huh. I thought the exhaust valves on the 1FZ were also 32mm?

 

[scottryana]

Yeah you're probably right, I might be remembering incorrectly.

Huh. I thought the exhaust valves on the 1FZ were also 32mm?