Northwesttaco's 80 series crawler slammed on 4d's and BS (1 Viewer)

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One of my favorite builds, just needs a 6bt/nv4500 to make it easy to break stuff. But think of how fast it’ll break em! Badass man, wish I could drop that kinda coin right now, maybe in a year or two.
 
One of my favorite builds, just needs a 6bt/nv4500 to make it easy to break stuff. But think of how fast it’ll break em! Badass man, wish I could drop that kinda coin right now, maybe in a year or two.
It wasn't as much $$$ as people think it is to be honest.. I mean yes it is still a good amount but putting long travel on my last truck cost more than this did. But its the work for 40's that make it really expensive.
But thanks dude! Can't wait to break it in
 
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Turned around here. The two trucks in front of me tore up the hill pretty bad and it was getting late in the day. Snow was pretty deep up front besides the snowmobiles that went before us
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Only locked the rear at the end
 
You video guy did a great job.
 
Okay so had some things to tweak and washed it up for some pics.
Just got done cutting another 1 3/8" out of the fenders up front. Can adjust the bumps now for some more up travel

Front end:
116" wheel base. Moved the axle forward 1"
14" 2.0" King coilovers with resi/clickers custom valved
King 2" air bumps
Ruffstuff 1 ton Y link steering
Fox Steering stabilizer
High steer
RCV axles
Trail Gear diff guard
Tral Gear 3" wheel spacers
Low Range offroad axle truss
Custom 3 link
Complete axle rebuild
PRP limit straps
Slee extended brake lines
Ballistic fab joints
Nitro 5.29's with ARB locker

Rear:
Dobinson 3" progressive coils
14" 2.5" King's with resi custom valved
Metal Tech rear Links
Iron Man panhard
Slee extended brake lines
Nitro 5.29's with ARB locker

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So did you move the rear axle back 3" stock wheelbase is 112. If so I never would have noticed.

Looks awesome, the only thing I would add for an 80 with 40's is the transfer case gears, and maybe a small hydro assist ram for steering if you feel like the stock system isn't up to the big tires. Nice work!
 
So did you move the rear axle back 3" stock wheelbase is 112. If so I never would have noticed.

Looks awesome, the only thing I would add for an 80 with 40's is the transfer case gears. Nice work!
Stock wheel base is 115", at least where I looked? Internet info for ya.

Yeah debating on the gears.. I have an appointment at Torfab on the 24th to have them done but not sure a 25% reduction is worth nearly $1500.. we'll see, hopefully going to test Andrew's on the rocks this week and that'll tell me.
 
How much did it cost? It might help others understand if they want to follow your approach. Looks like nice components. Any pics of the links?

Moving the axle forward an inch will not give you a 116" wheelbase.

Y link steering is terrible. @jcardona1 can comment. And you're going to want hydro assist if you wheel for real, not a stabilizer.

The drag link and track bar heights look screwy but maybe its just the angles.

What sort of link geometry did you end up with?
 
Stock wheel base is 115", at least where I looked? Internet info for ya.

Yeah debating on the gears.. I have an appointment at Torfab on the 24th to have them done but not sure a 25% reduction is worth nearly $1500.. we'll see, hopefully going to test Andrew's on the rocks this week and that'll tell me.
If you play in rocks you will want them. But its fine without for trail rides and snow if thats more your speed. And I wouldnt hesitate to run the 300 dollar gears.
 
Nope ironically since the 80, it has been 112.2" The 100 series and the 200 series included. I don't know if 2850mm has any significance in Japan but there must be some reason they are all the same. lol.

Stock wheel base is 115", at least where I looked? Internet info for ya.

Yeah debating on the gears.. I have an appointment at Torfab on the 24th to have them done but not sure a 25% reduction is worth nearly $1500.. we'll see, hopefully going to test Andrew's on the rocks this week and that'll tell me.
 
How much did it cost? It might help others understand if they want to follow your approach. Looks like nice components. Any pics of the links?

Moving the axle forward an inch will not give you a 116" wheelbase.

Y link steering is terrible. @jcardona1 can comment. And you're going to want hydro assist if you wheel for real, not a stabilizer.

The drag link and track bar heights look screwy but maybe its just the angles.

What sort of link geometry did you end up with?
It means nothing if I say the cost. It all depends on the shop and there are so many factors with linking that can change the price drastically. If someone is that serious about linking then they'll find a shop and get a quote for exactly what they need done, just like I did.

Why is it so bad? Many people have been wheeling it for years with no problems
 
It means nothing if I say the cost. It all depends on the shop and there are so many factors with linking that can change the price drastically. If someone is that serious about linking then they'll find a shop and get a quote for exactly what they need done, just like I did.

Why is it so bad? Many people have been wheeling it for years with no problems
Y links? Because you're creating a gigantic numb spot in the steering by having the drag link roll the tie rod forwards or backwards until the tie rod ends bind. Go have someone crank your steering wheel back and forth and watch the tie rod ends weeble wobble around
 
Y links? Because you're creating a gigantic numb spot in the steering by having the drag link roll the tie rod forwards or backwards until the tie rod ends bind. Go have someone crank your steering wheel back and forth and watch the tie rod ends weeble wobble around

Seems like a fairly easy thing to overcome...

The Cure!
 

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