From the same wire that signals the factory tachometer. I checked the settings too.
The 2H/12H-T/1HZ/1HD-T/1HD-FT Gturbo Alternative Tech Thread (1 Viewer)
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The 12 blade is what I'd go for in your shoes. Least amount of work for the greatest bennifit.
I strongly suggest upgrading your thrust collar but it might take machining your center section to fit it. Costs like 50$ to machine and any machinist can do it. I've had good results with my td04s.
***Upgraded MAP FP EVO 3 EVO X 16g 18g 20g MHI TDO5 TDO6 Turbo Rebuild Kit | eBay
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I strongly suggest upgrading your thrust collar but it might take machining your center section to fit it. Costs like 50$ to machine and any machinist can do it. I've had good results with my td04s.
***Upgraded MAP FP EVO 3 EVO X 16g 18g 20g MHI TDO5 TDO6 Turbo Rebuild Kit | eBay
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I was going to disassemble the turbo and inspect before ordering the turbine wheel for sure. My turbo supposedly has a performance thrust bearing already. I think I found the repair kit at the Mambatek site that shows what it comprises of. Says steel thrust washer? It Looks like a sintered part maybe.
Mitsubishi TD05 TD06 16G 18G 20G Turbo repair Performance Steel
Why I upgraded to the 9blade wheel when I ordered I dont know.... damn marketing ...
. Believed the promise.
Thanks
Mitsubishi TD05 TD06 16G 18G 20G Turbo repair Performance Steel
Why I upgraded to the 9blade wheel when I ordered I dont know.... damn marketing ...
. Believed the promise.Thanks
Why I upgraded to the 9blade wheel when I ordered I dont know.... damn marketing ...
You bought the sizzle, and passed on the sausage
It will be interesting to hear your impression of the differences BEFORE and AFTER, particularly if the only thing you change is the turbine
E.g. Differences in boost/spool up, EGTs, etc
SHOP TIP: check for left handed thread on the turbo shaft/nut.
I twisted the end of the shaft off on the first turbo I stripped
So I tried starting in second gear with my auto trans as per @IanB. WOT to redline. Videoed the 3rd pull hot motor. What pressures do the the green and red turbo lights come on? Only 24psi not 25psi as stated earlier. 23;1 afr.
1500 rpm = guge moves green light on
1800 rpm = 10psi
2000 rpm = 13psi
2200 rpm = 20psi
2400 rpm = 24psi
Boost Gauge is tapped in post intercooler
This is using the oem tach... my turbo timer says 2000rpm when oem says 2200. Has anyone ever checked the accuracy of there tach?
Not sure how accurate the data is, software says for standard trans only.
1500 rpm = guge moves green light on
1800 rpm = 10psi
2000 rpm = 13psi
2200 rpm = 20psi
2400 rpm = 24psi
Boost Gauge is tapped in post intercooler
This is using the oem tach... my turbo timer says 2000rpm when oem says 2200. Has anyone ever checked the accuracy of there tach?
Not sure how accurate the data is, software says for standard trans only.
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Green light is really low, something like 3 or 5psi. Red was to warn of over boost and comes on at ~15psi.
Pyro came up quick.
Pyro came up quick.
I've heard really bad things about steel thrust bearings. Although the metal is stronger it conducts the heat away from itself slower and I've read of many failures. I try and keep in mind that it's not the bearing material that is carrying the load but the fluid film of the oil. Having bearings that contribute to higher bearing oil temps will degrade the film strength. By the time it comes down to the bearing surfaces touching who cares what it's made of, you've already lost the game.
I think the green light is 2psi, amber is 14.5psi, pretty well what @mudgudgeon said.
Well my turbo came in. I know Luke was making some changes to my inducer size (I don't remember specifics but I'm pretty sure I posted them earlier) but it looks now like I have an 11 blade turbine wheel like others in the group buy vs the 7+7 wheel I had before. I asked him what he changed but I guess at this point it doesn't matter. Even my old MMP turbo ran better than my stock one so I'm curious how this one will be. I did notice that the turbine shaft seems "more free" than my last turbo when it came in.
Well the turbo is on. I had left my fuel alone when I reinstalled my stock turbo so I had to be really careful about my EGTs. Starting off towing my boat like that would blow a huge cloud of black smoke till the turbo started spooling. I wanted to leave the fuel alone so I could see how the new turbo felt. I swapped over the wastegate and set it to where it was cracking at 22psi. I didn't want to set it so tight to where the electronic boost controller I have waiting to get installed was doing nothing. Before I was able to hit 22psi but at this setting I am hitting 15-18psi so that's a wastegate issue. Concerned that it was not enough preload to keep the flapper shut I disconnected the wastegate and she spun right up to 30psi but no difference in spool. Overall the spool feels slightly worse than before. Luke said this one would be moving more air since he increased the size of the inducer and to make up the spool for that he went to the 11+0 wheel.
Now people, me included, seem to focus on the psi and the spool and this one is close to stock in that reguard but it's not apples to apples since this one moves so much more air at the same boost level. My stock turbo set to 15psi would cruise at 100km/hr at around 10-12psi. This one sits at 6psi. I still wish I went with a GTurbo so I would know for sure it was my tune or my truck vs the engineering of the turbo but I'm going to do my best with this one. It did make a huge difference driving in the mountains. Tonight my friend is welding a bung in my downpipe for my wideband. I still need to finish my intake project so I can get my intercooler hooked up too.
Since I don't have my wideband installed I am still tuning by EGT but I have a question. When I floor it my EGTs go up but once the boost is up they start to come back down by hundreds of degrees. Since it's so short should I mostly ignore the spike and consider the settled number my real spec or is that something in the way I have my truck tuned?
Now people, me included, seem to focus on the psi and the spool and this one is close to stock in that reguard but it's not apples to apples since this one moves so much more air at the same boost level. My stock turbo set to 15psi would cruise at 100km/hr at around 10-12psi. This one sits at 6psi. I still wish I went with a GTurbo so I would know for sure it was my tune or my truck vs the engineering of the turbo but I'm going to do my best with this one. It did make a huge difference driving in the mountains. Tonight my friend is welding a bung in my downpipe for my wideband. I still need to finish my intake project so I can get my intercooler hooked up too.
Since I don't have my wideband installed I am still tuning by EGT but I have a question. When I floor it my EGTs go up but once the boost is up they start to come back down by hundreds of degrees. Since it's so short should I mostly ignore the spike and consider the settled number my real spec or is that something in the way I have my truck tuned?
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Could the EGT spike be reduced by tightening the spring in the boost compensator slightly?
What sort of EGT numbers are you seeing?
What sort of EGT numbers are you seeing?
I'd put more focus on egt's then afr's but it's handy to know both .
Spikes as you run through the rpm range arnt an issue as Long as it stabilises at a safe (what ever u are comfortable running ) level. You need a certain amount of fuel/heat energy to drive a turbine, the turbo make up will dictate how much drive is required to make boost. So getting the fuel in as soon as possible will bring the boost in as soon as possible. How soon and how much depends on your setup and how much smoke is acceptable to you
Concider your driving style and use when tuning. The thing to be careful of is if your use/driving style sees the situation where so much load is put on the engine that it can't accelerate past the rpm point where egt's spike then there's a high chance they'll reach unsafe levels . If that occurs you have options. Pull fuel in that area or don't lug the engine at that rpm point . Then there's the expensive options of buying different parts like turbos, fuel system and induction components.
If your diy tuning for safety and have the time . Tune while Running your car through the worst case scenario . After a while you'll be able to tune whilst empty and allow a safety margin in your tune .
How hot u go with a tune is up to you. Personally I hate "having" to gauge watch so I tune accordingly .
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I'd agree that a spike in EGTs is not an issue. Sustained high EGTs are.
It takes time to heat soak parts
Can you post video of gauges while you do a WOT run
It takes time to heat soak parts
Can you post video of gauges while you do a WOT run
I will take another video with this turbo but there is less preload on the wastegate as I can't hit 22psi anymore with the same fuel settings.
This was my first MMP turbo with the same fuel setting. This was before I noticed the EGTs would drop if I held the boost level for a bit.
Video by Eric Hittle
This was my first MMP turbo with the same fuel setting. This was before I noticed the EGTs would drop if I held the boost level for a bit.
Video by Eric Hittle
I'm guessing you've got your boost compensator spring set very loose, so when it sees boost it goes to full fuelling (hence the EGT spike), and as the air catches up the EGT's cool and stabilize. Stiffening up the spring so the fuel comes on more gradually asa boost builds should help with the spike, but depending on how this turbo responds boost may come in slower with less fuel, you'll have to play with it and see what works best.
@IanB
I have the star wheel backed out 70 clicks and then two turns (starting counting turns as clicks didn't do much). I think I still could go further and will start messing with it again
Edit:
Went out and did two more turns of the star wheel. I painted the rod but never pulled it back out to check. Wastegate still at 16psi. Not sure if I should bother trying to adjust preload or just work on getting my electronic boost controller hooked up. This star wheel adjustment made a big difference. EGTs are much more linear. I have never been able to add fuel via the main fuel screw but I tried it to where my idle went up to 1200rpms. My EGTs actually dropped doing that. I then tried to take some off boost fuel out by setting the cam from max to min since I added so much more fuel. My EGTs are way better than before and probably the best the truck has run so far.
I have the star wheel backed out 70 clicks and then two turns (starting counting turns as clicks didn't do much). I think I still could go further and will start messing with it again
Edit:
Went out and did two more turns of the star wheel. I painted the rod but never pulled it back out to check. Wastegate still at 16psi. Not sure if I should bother trying to adjust preload or just work on getting my electronic boost controller hooked up. This star wheel adjustment made a big difference. EGTs are much more linear. I have never been able to add fuel via the main fuel screw but I tried it to where my idle went up to 1200rpms. My EGTs actually dropped doing that. I then tried to take some off boost fuel out by setting the cam from max to min since I added so much more fuel. My EGTs are way better than before and probably the best the truck has run so far.
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Sounds like u need more on boost/ maxboost fueling . Try setting the compensator pin in the max position . Make sure it gets to the max position with your max boost pressure but not go into over boost protection . Shim the pin so it cannot travel from max fuel to overboost if you have to or grind/continue the taper further up the pin .
Get your max boost top end fuelling set then add or subtract fuel via the star wheel untill your happy with spoolup smoke and cruise temps . If you can't find a happy medium like that then you may need to back the pin position off or a custom ground pin or custom spring .
A good place to start is what ever your max boost is try to make your compensator pin achieve max travel at or a few psi before that Same psi point .
It's not always possible or desirable but it will give you a good starting point, depending on how your setup responds you may have to make compromises in some areas .
When my pump was rebuilt the spring was changed by rebuilder to match the extra boost level. I think a stifferspring was fitted.
This is a little off topic ....
Has anyone experienced head gasket issues after upping the Boost to say 25 psi. I was pushing a little bit of coolant into my overflow tank so I decided to pull off my head and have a look here's what I found. I will start a new I will start a new thread for the head gasket issue the link will be at the bottom.
1HDT Head Gasket Issues
Has anyone experienced head gasket issues after upping the Boost to say 25 psi. I was pushing a little bit of coolant into my overflow tank so I decided to pull off my head and have a look here's what I found. I will start a new I will start a new thread for the head gasket issue the link will be at the bottom.
1HDT Head Gasket Issues
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Mmp's smallest 100% bolt on turbo for the 1HD-FTE at 24 psi making 240rwhp and 655 nm of torque with ultra lean AFR's of 23.6:1 - This turbo has maxed out the stock fuel system.
Turbo has plenty more left in it With +30 injectors the setup will yield 300+hp
