Awwww Shucks, Lower Thermostat housing (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jan 6, 2017
Threads
14
Messages
95
Location
Kyle Canyon, Nevada
Great news, Dropped my fuel tank, sent it off, got it cleaned, and reinstalled.

Bad news, Decided to dive into my cooling problem while I was waiting for the tank to come back. Engine won't come up to temp unless I'm getting after it. Went to pop of the top of the thermostat housing and check replace thermostat and gaskets if needed.

A gentle snap revealed a weakened bolt and tightened threads in the housing.

IMG_2816.jpg



Little bit of rust in there. I'll blame that.

So I pulled the whole housing because, why not fix this in the comfort of a nice work bench.

The good news is that I found every gasket to be deteriorated and so at least my exploration proved useful.

The small mark in the top is before i discovered that there are no threads in that bit :(
IMG_2824.JPG




So i sent to town on the lower, cleaned it up real nice, soaked it in break free over night. center drilled the bolt and inserted the easy out.

Snap again :bang:

Since then, my attempts to redress have proven futile against the stuck easy out tip .

IMG_2826.JPG


I may have even gotten a little overzealous and bit into a thread or two on the housing itself.


So here I am. Stuck bolt, still no chance at an easy out purchase point. I don't know where to go from here.

Ideas?

Thank you as always

Luke
 
Hot Hot Heat!, a drift, and hammer - start to tap it out in the right direction.

Dyno
 
Go ahead and good luck with your refurbishing project but the are plenty of OEM thermostat housings NEW AND USED PARTS.

CruiserParts.net $125 USED

City Racer LLP New and complete Upper & lower housing, bolts, all Gaskets, thermostat = $185 and Spector Off Road for $250.

I’m sure you can find cheaper used parts
 
Ok I’m cheap. I’ll put a lot of labor into something before I buy a new part, but that’s just me.
So as the above said, heat. If you screw up the old threads or the hole don’t worry about it. Get Time-Serts ( I get them on Amazon) and fix it, no big deal. Plus the fix will be stronger and less likely to be stuck next time.
 
Afaik....there are no new lower t stat housings with 2 ports for the BVSV available anymore. City Racers are non US without ports.

Go ahead and good luck with your refurbishing project but the are plenty of OEM thermostat housings NEW AND USED PARTS.

CruiserParts.net $125 USED

City Racer LLP New and complete Upper & lower housing, bolts, all Gaskets, thermostat = $185 and Spector Off Road for $250.

I’m sure you can find cheaper used parts
 
That has happened to me twice. Each time , just replaced the top housing using 3 bolts and some rtv. It never leaked. Not ideal I know but can be done in an emergency. Tighten the 2 diagonally opposed bolts firmly and the third bolt slightly.
I have an idea high tensile bolts might be better for this housing.
 
Take a plate washer with a center hole roughly the same size as the broken bolt, stick it in a vice about a quarter of the way into the washer. Use a hammer and bend it to 90 degrees. Then take the washer and grab the little tab you bent into it with a pair of needle nose vice grips near the edge so that the entire center hole is exposed. Attach your ground to the vice grips and place the washer hole over the broken stud. Using the electrode first tack it to get it to stay in the correct position then give it a really good tach with the gun pointing the electrode down into the broken stud. Then grab the tab a little better with the vice grips and start working it back and forth. When it breaks free continue working it back and forth until you get it out. I sometimes use wd40 immediately after i get it to crack to cool/lubricate. If the weld breaks do it again until it comes out.
 
MAPP gas, Kroil, BFH to shock the bolt, and repeat. I used a Dremel to cut a slot for a standard screwdriver (didn't help but it was worth the effort). Eventually the EZ-OUT (oxymoronic name for a tool that is a total piece of garbage or a savior) melted and I blasted it through the bolt with the BFH! Good luck on your repair.
 
Reverse thread drill bit and extractor works perfectly if you Heat and repeat and drill a pilot hole DEAD CENTER in the stud fragment. This is a must-have for old vehicles.

LINK

s-l225.jpg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom