My body is ready.
DoUbLEr!!!! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Booger weldz
- Start date
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My body is ready.
i'm looking forward to watching you guys pioneer the install.. that's half of what i paid for my cruiser but i'm gonna do it.. that's gonna be a huge improvement.. i knew there was a reason i hadn't made up my mind what i wanted to do with gearing in general.
Aggressively not getting excited.
This will replace the oem tcase? I just had 3.12 gear installed
No. It goes in between your transmission and tcase. With 3.11 gears and the Black Box, you'd be at 8.46:1 (or a final crawl ratio of 125:1 if you have 5.29s in the diffs).
Last time I looked, it was no longer on their website. Not sure what that means.
It required a lot of mods to make room for it.
Can you elaborate on this? It’s my understanding that the gas tank will be in slight interference with the T-case once the black box is stuffed in. Is a percussion adjustment to the tank enough to create ample clearance?
It's more than half of what I paid for mine almost 8 years ago. It will be worth every penny.
Of course I just had two custom driveshafts made that will have to get redone, but I'm good with that.
I will say, at 2400, plus cost of shifter, I may hold off until summer on this one. I was in on the first pre-order for the Marlin Gears, not sure if I'll get this one right off the bat since I have so much little stuff to finish up.
That's what I'm guessing. I really have no idea what it will involve at this point but this is what I think:
- lengthen front drive shaft (tcase moves back a few inches)
- shorten rear drive shaft (tcase moves back a few inches)
- figure out cable shifter linkage for Black Box (looks like they sell kits for $199)
- modify linkage for stock tcase (tcase moves back a few inches)
- take a BFH to gas tank to provide clearance or worst case scenario, need to change out gas tank all together for something custom or from another rig
- what else am I missing?
I know they say they're close, but I'm guessing it'll still be another 6+ months before they're even ready to ship.
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The rear driveline will be what? 8” shorter? That will increase its operating angle considerably. In order to run that DC shaft you just ordered, the pinion will need to be rotated up at a rather steep angle. Whether or not this will affect pinion bearing lubrication is my interest. Also, at this point the coil buckets will need to relocated so the coil is able to seat acceptably.
Those were the major items I had to do when I crawl box'd my Taco
I did an Inchworm doubler on my Taco and the only thing I'd add is the possibility of fabbing a second T-case mount... which I had to do. Also, I ended up using an RADesigns shift linkage to move my rear case shifter in line with my front case so everything looked more OEM. I wonder if something similar could be done with the LC T-case sticks...
lt1fire
SILVER Star
bwesty
SILVER Star
Those were the major items I had to do when I crawl box'd my Taco
I did an Inchworm doubler on my Taco and the only thing I'd add is the possibility of fabbing a second T-case mount... which I had to do. Also, I ended up using an RADesigns shift linkage to move my rear case shifter in line with my front case so everything looked more OEM. I wonder if something similar could be done with the LC T-case sticks...
Having owned a dual t-case Toyota vehicle in the past, this covers most of the modifications necessary however I would also consider addressing or at least being aware of these potential modifications / upgrades that will be necessary to do as well - some minor, some more involved -
- cutting of tunnel & interior console area to modify shifters to fit and have sufficient space to work
- tcase mount modifications due to moving tcase back or replacing all together with a tcase mount designed to handle the additional torque and stress a doubler inevitably puts on the drivetrain specifically the motor mounts and tcase mount.
- replace any old / worn motor mounts with NEW OEM Toyota mounts and chain one side down. this is often overlooked and addressing it up front will save future issues especially if using 3:1 gears in Tcase combined with the Blackbox.
Is there pics of one mounted?
Don't forget that a DC shaft with the stock rear diff isn't aligned laterally so it'll vibrate a lil' bit. Not a lot baby girl.
I'm a "pass" on this, I think. I can't imagine how much it would try to drive through my brakes in L, the complexity of installation is significant, more points of failure, I rarely even want a lower range now (and definitely don't need it), and it's not particularly necessary if you end up going with a v8 swap anyway. Plus, I don't want to hammer my gas tank to make it fit, build a new crossmember, start worrying about t-case outputs, build new driveshafts, for what will net out to like $4000.
NWF could have had a winner a long time ago but they screwed the pooch by not clearly outlining their roadmap (or adhering to their original one). Even if the product is great I'm disappointed with how little they seem to care. I can only anticipate customer service would be atrocious overall.
The shorter the driveline, the less forgiving. Yes, I agree, a GM power train, Atlas and tons if you really need to crawl.