Replacing Tie Rod Ends (1 Viewer)

[2000UZJ]

Should be easy to spot with that much play. Does the truck wander at speed? I would fix it asap or your tires could take a beating on the road.

It will stay straight as an arrow on the highway at 80+. It does not pull during coasting, cruising, nor braking. Under acceleration it pulls quite good (straight is 12 o'clock normally. Mine is 10 o'clock to keep straight). I think the 4wd is pulling the front passenger to the right. and causing me to counter steer so heavily. If I hit the gas and counter steer, then dump the throttle it will stop pulling. I have tried swerving through a empty parking lot trying to feel or hear is something is loose , bad way but it makes sure ABS and trac work, anyways, when I got aggressive I felt worlds of play. The front end had very bad pull and a heavy dead zone. Any gas she pulls right, no gas or braking and straight as arrow....

 

[Gottagetone]

Bearings will be all directions. Ball joints are easiest to check with a pry bar under a tire while supported by the frame. 3&9 sounds like one or both tie rods are shot.

2000uzj thats a lot of play!

When my passenger side bearings were needing a repack the play was at 6 & 12, no play at 9 & 3. When I went to pull the bearings the lock ring was barely hand tight, I was surprised that I had not experienced more of a problem.

I did have a tie rod end on my FJ go bad and the play was 6 & 9. It was an easy cheap fix, I think the tie rod end on the FJ was about $36.

 

[4Peanut]

Under acceleration it pulls quite good (straight is 12 o'clock normally. Mine is 10 o'clock to keep straight)...The front end had very bad pull and a heavy dead zone. Any gas she pulls right, no gas or braking and straight as arrow.

Nick, play at the wheel notwithstanding, the symptoms above probably have more to do with your front lift height (i.e. not enough droop) than anything else. I'd love to hear your feedback with your front set at 21" or less from hub center to fender lip.

 

[uzj100]

Anyone got a part number on an outer tie rod end for a 2000 uzj100. My passenger side is super tight and driver side is super loose.

Found it - 45047-69100 (driver side outer)

 

[PabloCruise]

I use one of these two,have always worked for me.
View attachment 640622

Okay, I must be an idiot, because I tried the one on the left and can not get it to clear the dust shield?

 

[PabloCruise]

I use one of these two,have always worked for me.
View attachment 640622

Do you have to force it in between the knuckle and the dust shield?

 

[BenTN]

^^^I tried the smaller one of those pitman arm pullers, and it broke on a ball joint. I'm new around here (just bought an '01), and I'm having to replace the steering rack, upper/lower control arms, and front axles. Thus far, I cannot find an 'easy' way to break the ball joints free, but the tie rod ends weren't terrible...lots of beating with a big hammer.

 

[PabloCruise]

^^^I tried the smaller one of those pitman arm pullers, and it broke on a ball joint. I'm new around here (just bought an '01), and I'm having to replace the steering rack, upper/lower control arms, and front axles. Thus far, I cannot find an 'easy' way to break the ball joints free, but the tie rod ends weren't terrible...lots of beating with a big hammer.

Thanks man, were you having problems with clearing the dust shield?

 

[PabloCruise]

^^^I tried the smaller one of those pitman arm pullers, and it broke on a ball joint. I'm new around here (just bought an '01), and I'm having to replace the steering rack, upper/lower control arms, and front axles. Thus far, I cannot find an 'easy' way to break the ball joints free, but the tie rod ends weren't terrible...lots of beating with a big hammer.

Some good info on replacing the rack here:

How To: Replace your own steering rack

Welcome to MUD!

 

[2001LC]

The large puller can be configured with just two arms. It will work with shield on, if you can't squeeze on what you have. You can also release the two bolts holding on the bracket for the TRE, to get your puller on it. Then tight back on to hold securely while pulling TRE.

 

[BenTN]

Thanks man, were you having problems with clearing the dust shield?

With the smaller puller, it was on a bit wonky because of the dust shield, so we used a Snap-On adjustable wrench handle as a balance point. It BENT the wrench, and then the puller snapped.

Thanks for the reference on the steering rack...that's the thread I used for pulling the old one out, along with the Toyota manuals. The thread was a little lacking in details. I'm used to writeups from BMW, Audi, and Subaru forums where there's step-by-step (idiot proof) instructions with pictures.

I should probably post up some pics of my 100 with nothing under the front-end.

 

[PabloCruise]

The large puller can be configured with just two arms. It will work with shield on, if you can't squeeze on what you have. You can also release the two bolts holding on the bracket for the TRE, to get your puller on it. Then tight back on to hold securely while pulling TRE.
View attachment 1557554

Darn, did not think of removing dust shield. By that point on Sunday I was so pissed at the low pressure line on the rack. I just ASSumed the dust shield did not come off until the disc came off.

Thank you...

 

[2001LC]

Darn, did not think of removing dust shield. By that point on Sunday I was so pissed at the low pressure line on the rack. I just ASSumed the dust shield did not come off until the disc came off.

Thank you...

No I wasn't talking about removing dust shield, you need to pull the hub to get at it's bolts for that. I was talking about the two bolts holding the TRE bracket. Loosening will give some room, then tight so it's secure.

 

[PabloCruise]

No I wasn't talking about removing dust shield, you need to pull the hub to get at it's bolts for that. I was talking about the two bolts holding the TRE bracket. Loosing will give some room, then tight so it's secure.
View attachment 1557644

Oh! Really didn't think of that! So that is required to separate the TREs? Seems like things will be flopping around when you put the business to the puller...

 

[PabloCruise]

With the smaller puller, it was on a bit wonky because of the dust shield, so we used a Snap-On adjustable wrench handle as a balance point. It BENT the wrench, and then the puller snapped.

Thanks for the reference on the steering rack...that's the thread I used for pulling the old one out, along with the Toyota manuals. The thread was a little lacking in details. I'm used to writeups from BMW, Audi, and Subaru forums where there's step-by-step (idiot proof) instructions with pictures.

I should probably post up some pics of my 100 with nothing under the front-end.

I have been taking pictures as I go along, so I hope to add value to the thread, but I don't have any business posting until I actually get the old rack out and then the new rack in!

 

[2001LC]

Oh! Really didn't think of that! So that is required to separate the TREs? Seems like things will be flopping around when you put the business to the puller...

***** ****Loosening will give some room, then tight so it's secure.

View attachment 1557644

That's why you tighten to secure! Just don't over tighten if puller is binding between TRE bracket & against dust shield..

 

[PabloCruise]

No I wasn't talking about removing dust shield, you need to pull the hub to get at it's bolts for that. I was talking about the two bolts holding the TRE bracket. Loosening will give some room, then tight so it's secure.
View attachment 1557644

You need to move the brake line to loosen this part of the knuckle, eh?

 

[2001LC]

I don't think brake line will be in your way. But the wheel speed sensor wire bracket(s) may be. Just be careful if you end-up pulling the speed sensor out of it's socket, the housing breaks if you pry on it to hard. But even that (sensor) can stay put, just work around it. Remember, your only loosening the two bolts holding the TRE bracket enough so you can slip your puller on the TRE.


Few other option:

Remove the two bolts & bracket holding TRE to knuckle.

Remove caliper, wheel hub then dust shield.

Go to Orelly's Auto parts an rent the 76021 2/3 5 ton puller I pictures above. It has many possible configuration, fine the right combination and it should work with dust cover on. Also look what other pullers they have that may work.

 

[PabloCruise]

I don't think brake line will be in your way. But the wheel speed sensor wire bracket(s) may be. Just be careful if you end-up pulling the speed sensor out of it's socket, the housing breaks if you pry on it to hard. But even that (sensor) can stay put, just work around it. Remember, your only loosening the two bolts holding the TRE bracket enough so you can slip your puller on the TRE.


Few other option:

Remove the two bolts & bracket holding TRE to knuckle.

Remove caliper, wheel hub then dust shield.

Go to Orelly's Auto parts an rent the 76021 2/3 5 ton puller I pictures above. It has many possible configuration, fine the right combination and it should work with dust cover on. Also look what other pullers they have that may work.

Thanks. I will give this a try tonight.

 

[fooldall1]

Anyone got a part number on an outer tie rod end for a 2000 uzj100. My passenger side is super tight and driver side is super loose.

Found it - 45047-69100 (driver side outer)

This is me today, too. Driver's sure loose as Hell

Anyone got a part number on an outer tie rod end for a 2000 uzj100. My passenger side is super tight and driver side is super loose.

Found it - 45047-69100 (driver side outer)