Definitive Toyota Tool List (1 Viewer)

[cruiserpilot]

Just recently the problem of a simple snap ring removal was brought up. So it got me thinking, which after a double cheese burger and milkshake was quite something, cause usually all I want to do after that is have a nap.
So I want to create a thread of tools that I think every person who wants to work on their Toyota
should have. The first tool I ever was told to have was the one from the previous thread.

Snap Ring Pliers. Now below I have 'stolen' from Cruiser Outfitters website. These are absolute
required tools I think, cause axles is where most of our work begins. Take any beater to show truck and servicing axles/brakes/wheel bearings/seals and birfields it begins and ends with these tools.
The spring scale gauge isn't completely required, I've rebuilt several front knuckles and so long as shims are replaced and in good condition and the knuckle bearings are factory replacements it's possible to get away without this, especially in the bush with a field fix.
So I begin with this, and lets see if we can make a good list that everyone can recognize.

Now as this thread progresses, Hi LIft is not a definitive Toyota tool - OK.

Axle Overhaul Tools & Supplies

54mm Front Hub Socket - $21.50
A must have in the garage or on the trail. 54mm drive hub socket is a mandatory tool while performing any work on the FRONT axle. Available in 3/8" drive.
(Fits 9/1975-2007 FJ40/55/60/62/80/LX450/100/LX470 & 79'-85' Mini-Truck)
Part# FA15007

Spring Scale Gauge - $22.50
A must have in the shop when rebuilding a front (or full-float rear) axle, repacking wheel bearings or setting up knuckle bearing preload. Use of tool is covered by instruction manuals included with our knuckle rebuild and wheel bearings kits.
(Fits All Year Land Cruisers, 4Runners & Pickups)
Part# FASCALE

Knuckle Stud Socket - $10.00
Use our Knuckle Stud Socket to install the 1979-97 knuckle studs with proper torque. Works with KS12005 studs only.
(Fits All Year Land Cruisers, 4Runners & Pickups w/KS12005 upper and lower knuckle studs)
Part# KSSOCKET

Snap Ring Pliers - $21.00
For use on the free-hub/drive flange snap ring found on Early - 2007 Land Cruisers including the 2x/4x/5x/6x/7x/8x/10x models. Allows easy removal and installation of the snap ring without damage.
Part# FASNAP

FF Rear Hub Socket - $32.50
A must have in the garage or on the trail.
(Fits 1/79 & newer 4x/5x/6x/7x/8x/105 with full-float REAR axle)
Part# TOOLFFSOCK

 

[stevebradford]

Funny thing about the full float rear tripod socket. I have two full float axles now and for an experiment and also because I dident have the tripod nut for the one I was just building. I used the 54mm front nuts and lock washer on the rear axle. Seems to work well no dramas and nice to use the same tools. Though the more tools the better!

I own more tools than god!

You got a picture of this knuckle stud tool? I have never heard of it?

 

[cruiserpilot]

Did you try to get the locknut and washer from the rear full floater to fit on the front axle? I was told they didn’t interchange.
Let’s try to keep this focused on tools. I had to borrow a pilot bearing puller from
Diesel Cruiserman and a small two arm puller to pull the idler bearing on the front of my transmission. Do you have a pic and maybe part numbers for those tools, Rob?

 

[seapotato]

Not specifically Toyota, but it makes tranny/tcase oil changes ridiculously easy compared to the s***ty little squeeze bottles.
Believe I bought this from napa. Last century...

And for pretty much everything you can't use a socket or box end on, even a lot you could, specifically any sort of plumbing fittings. they have a 10:1 mechanical advantage on the grip, so they won't really slip on anything
I actually have two pairs of these now. A smaller one that pretty much lives in my pocket.
Not cheap, but a good one for the xmas list...

 

[cruiserpilot]

Yeah, still haven't broken down to spend on the Knipex. They are really nice. Have you used them to grab the
front hub nuts instead of using a 54mm?
Gear oil hand pump is way better than the suction guns. I actually bought about 5' of that nice nylon tube Home Hardware
sells, and measured it back to the brake booster and now I gravity feed the tcase/trans/axle from above. Dont' know why
I didn't do that before. Far less effort and mess.

That knuckle stud tool I didn't see on the list until after I copied it. I don't have a pic, don't know exactly what it is.
I presume it helps pull the stud through when you replace the rotors and helps seat them?? I use a brass drift, and an anvil.

The info I have is there isn't enough room on the front axle to use the same locking
rings that the rear FF use. I plan to put that to the test soon. I like the locking rings on
the rear way better than those damn nuts and fold over lock washers.

 

[seapotato]

Yeah, still haven't broken down to spend on the Knipex. They are really nice. Have you used them to grab the
front hub nuts instead of using a 54mm?

I haven't no. Bought them after doing my front end. Guy at work had a pair, used them a couple times and I caved. Strangely the smaller ones I have (5" I think) was the same price as the 10" pair. I was monkeying around in the yard on tractor bits all day, nice to not have to go back to the shop and get a wrench...they grip so hard you can pull crappy old cotter pins out with them (can even pull nails)

That knuckle stud tool I didn't see on the list until after I copied it. I don't have a pic, don't know exactly what it is.
I presume it helps pull the stud through when you replace the rotors and helps seat them?? I use a brass drift, and an anvil.

.

I believe you're thinking of wheel studs. Knuckle studs would be what the steering arms bolt to. I tend to just double nut them to wind them in if they come loose.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Yeah. you're right about the knuckle stud tool I didn't read that right, did I?
Double nut is the way to go. To ensure they stay in I let Locktite set up and then
they are good.

 

[stevebradford]

Well it's not a toyota tool but sure is handy for working on the steering linkage. Otc 7315A

 

[cruiserpilot]

thanks to Gsb for lending me his transmission jack. I made this custom plate from an old H55 transmission bracket.
It makes it so no chains required and it bolts the transmission right to the jack

 

[cruiserpilot]

Be sure to check out
The RennStand by Safe Jack

I’d like to see if anyone has any input as I’d like to create a Toyota offset axle
Lifting Pad with adjustable legs similiar to this. Anyone has something get a hold of me.
I’ve already got a very effective template in my shop.

 

[cruiserpilot]

This showed up on the tools and fabrication thread. But certainly worthy of passing on. I might look for
this torque calibration thing at Harbour Freight since I'm down here

Torque Wrench Testing - Shop Tools - Car Craft Magazine

 

[asutherland]

 

[seapotato]

Ha, amazed it took so long for a hammer to show up. Mine has a section of 60 series tie rod welded into it for a handle ...to make it authentic.


After 15 years of not really using my impact gun because it was useless, I bought one of these. $200 on Amazon which is pretty freaking cheap. They claim 900ft lbs of torque at 90psi...Midland tools closest was half the torque at double the price.

Numbers are probably fudged a bit but it blows my old ch one out of the water. No comparison.

 

[Diesel Cruiserman]

Love my IR gun, but at almost half the price that gun is a great deal...

 

[cruiserpilot]

Open up the air line. I presume you're running 3/8" not 1/4" fittings. I've got a Blue Point, don't recall
the price but big difference when I put in the new compressor and bigger fittings.
Hey, Rob could you post up both of those pullers I borrowed? The small one for the pilot bearing,
and the one I used to pull the t-case bearings.

 

[seapotato]

Air line isn't a problem, this thing spun off lug nuts a tire shop hammered on that I could barely move with a cheater bar, and did it at the end of 150' of air line with 1/4" fittings in about a second.

Kindof night and day over the old piece of s***. Which I'll keep, but only for putting in lagbolts out in the rain.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Air line isn't a problem, this thing spun off lug nuts a tire shop hammered on that I could barely move with a cheater bar, and did it at the end of 150' of air line with 1/4" fittings in about a second.

Kindof night and day over the old piece of s***. Which I'll keep, but only for putting in lagbolts out in the rain.

I think I have to buy me one of those! Thanks for the review. My 1/2 impact is a piece of crap too. From one of those cheap kits from Costco I think.

The true test, think your new impact can get a crank pulley bolt out?

 

[seapotato]

I think I have to buy me one of those! Thanks for the review. My 1/2 impact is a piece of crap too. From one of those cheap kits from Costco I think.

The true test, think your new impact can get a crank pulley bolt out?

Ha that would be the test. Think my old one was the same. Costco or maybe even walmart kit...juuuunk.
I bought this one after doing the crank bolt on the wife's honda crv...and possibly dislocating my shoulder in the process... (Honda crank bolts are legendary )

I'm hoping it'll do flywheel bolts, because rear main seal is on my list for the summer. So far so good tho. I was pretty amazed at how easily it did lug nuts that were freakishly tight, in the past I wouldn't even try with my impact until I'd cracked them loose with a breaker bar.

And yeah. It's less than half the price of anything with comparable torque #'s. Craploads of good reviews too.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

I've been using a breaker bar to the frame on my LJ78 crank pulley bolt. Then hit the starter. Works great, but torqueing it back on is a different story.

I did finally make a 3 foot long tool that bolts to the face of the crank pulley with a hole in the middle for a socket. Had to make that to get the crank pulley and flex plate to crank bolts out on the short block I bough last fall. A good impact would have made all that much easier though.

Haha, I was always doing the same on lug nuts. I'd crack them with a big breaker bar while the truck was still on the ground. Then jack the truck up and finish it with the impact. Would be so nice not to have to do that anymore.

 

[seapotato]

I've been using a breaker bar to the frame on my LJ78 crank pulley bolt. Then hit the starter. Works great, but torqueing it back on is a different story.

I did finally make a 3 foot long tool that bolts to the face of the crank pulley with a hole in the middle for a socket. Had to make that to get the crank pulley and flex plate to crank bolts out on the short block I bough last fall. A good impact would have made all that much easier though.

Haha, I was always doing the same on lug nuts. I'd crack them with a big breaker bar while the truck was still on the ground. Then jack the truck up and finish it with the impact. Would be so nice not to have to do that anymore.

Yeah, I did the same. Loosen everything before jacking. Fricken luxury not doing that anymore.

Unfortunately, Hondas s*** is backwards...the ol' breaker bar to frame trick doesn't work. They wanted $400+ to replace a $8 seal, and I was almost ready to pay it. Broke a socket and an extension using a 10' cheater and had to make this hideous piece of s*** as a last effort before giving up.