stumped by this brake issue (1 Viewer)

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Bigstar

Joined
Aug 10, 2015
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On Saturday I pulled my rear hubs off and freed my parking brakes. They were rusted open and I couldn't set them. I bled the brakes and topped off the reservoir. The brakes felt firm and perfect on my short test drive. This morning I got in my FJ62 and started down the rad. I could feel that I had some brake resistance. The more I drove the firmer the brake pedal got until it was so firm and and and I could feel that the truck could hardly roll. I pulled over and I used a pry bar to make sure my parking brakes were free. I pulled out again and still felt resistance from the brakes. I reached sown and pulled the pedal towards me and I felt it release and the truck sped up. The pedal was instantly more plush like it is supposed to be. So far I'm not having any issues.

Any ideas on what caused this? Thanks for any help?
 
Sounds like your master may be going or maybe some grit was in it. Definitely make sure nothing is catching the brake pedal and keeping it from returning to position. How did your fluid look before changing it?

I just had to replace my master cylinder over the weekend. Got a rebuilt Asin from Napa. Hand brake worked 100%, but nothing when the pedal was pushed. Turns out I was driving with only front brakes the last few months.:doh:
 
My Ebrake won't engage. I put a new cable on it and the rears are adjusted right. It is the levers on mine that the cable attaches to. They are frozen or the springs are worn. Something. Shot. Need all that stuff but not sure if it is available.
 
Replace the master cylinder. That's where the problem was. Brakes are the most important component in the car. You master may be working right now ok after you pulled up on the pedal, but that should never have happened in the first place. Something isn't perfect inside the MC and it should be perfect. The problem could suddenly manifest again at the worst possible time.
 
OSS said:
Replace the master cylinder. That's where the problem was. Brakes are the most important component in the car. You master may be working right now ok after you pulled up on the pedal, but that should never have happened in the first place. Something isn't perfect inside the MC and it should be perfect. The problem could suddenly manifest again at the worst possible time.
Click to expand...

That's what I used to think until I read recently that the most important features in a car, to new car buyers, is .....
  1. Power Driver's Seat: 79%
  2. Heated Front Seats: 70%
  3. Active Blind-Spot Detection System: 65%
  4. Easy-to-Clean Seat & Floor Materials: 64%
  5. USB Ports: 64%
  6. Built-In Navigation System: 61%
  7. Heated Windshield (auto fog prevention): 60%
  8. Power Front Passenger Seat: 60%
  9. Backup Collision Intervention/Auto Stop: 59%
  10. Leather Seats: 58%
  11. Side Mirror Turn Signals: 58%
  12. Hidden Storage for Computer/Purse: 58%
  13. Voice-Activated Controls (phone, audio, climate): 56%
  14. Bluetooth Streaming Audio: 56%
  15. Push-button Ignition: 55%
What happened to dependability. I guess if you have power heated front seats, who needs a reliable drivetrain...or good brakes
 
lcwizard said:
What happened to dependability. I guess if you have power heated front seats, who needs a reliable drivetrain...or good brakes
Click to expand...

This way you can be warm while you wait for AAA :cool:
 
lcwizard said:
That's what I used to think until I read recently that the most important features in a car, to new car buyers, is .....
  1. Power Driver's Seat: 79%
  2. Heated Front Seats: 70%
  3. Active Blind-Spot Detection System: 65%
  4. Easy-to-Clean Seat & Floor Materials: 64%
  5. USB Ports: 64%
  6. Built-In Navigation System: 61%
  7. Heated Windshield (auto fog prevention): 60%
  8. Power Front Passenger Seat: 60%
  9. Backup Collision Intervention/Auto Stop: 59%
  10. Leather Seats: 58%
  11. Side Mirror Turn Signals: 58%
  12. Hidden Storage for Computer/Purse: 58%
  13. Voice-Activated Controls (phone, audio, climate): 56%
  14. Bluetooth Streaming Audio: 56%
  15. Push-button Ignition: 55%
What happened to dependability. I guess if you have power heated front seats, who needs a reliable drivetrain...or good brakes
Click to expand...


To OSS's point.... items 1 through 15 aren't important if you're dead. ;)
 
Hey Bigstar, i agree that it sounds like your master cylinder. When bleeding older brakes, (meaning any ones not newly installed) you have to be careful not to push the brake pedal too far. Often there can be corrosion just beyond the regular pedal travel, and when bleeding brakes, it's easy to go too far and damage the rubber seals on the brake piston, which screws up your master cylinder!
 
Thank you for the tips guys... I'm going to pull it apart tomorrow and check everything out. I'm going to adjust the booster push rod and grease everything again and see if there is any improvement. Thanks again
 
#2 and #7 are really nice features to have. :)
 
Ok well I think I sorted the problem. I took the master cylinder off today and and adjusted the booster push rod in a little. This seems to have solved the problem. I'm thinking when I bled the brakes the other day I did a much better job than the previous owner and it took any slop out of the brake system that I never noticed before. After adjusting the booster push rod the braking seems to be firm and on point.
 
Well it was good while it lasted...my original problem is back. After flushing my brake fluid and bleeding my lines last week I had good brake pressure all week until yesterday when I was driving down the road and my brake light came on. I pulled over and checked and the brake fluid is slowly dropping in my reservoir. I can't see any signs of leaking at the calipers, drums or brake lines. Any ideas on what is going on? Appreciate any help
 
Possibly this.

Freewheel said:
you have to be careful not to push the brake pedal too far. Often there can be corrosion just beyond the regular pedal travel, and when bleeding brakes, it's easy to go too far and damage the rubber seals on the brake piston, which screws up your master cylinder!
Click to expand...
 
master cylinder is leaking into the booster? Maybe time for a new master.
 
No, but if you pull the master and it's leaking (where it meets up with the booster), you'll know that you got 'NAPA know-how' with your part.

Most brake boosters seem to survive ingesting some brake fluid due to failed MCs. I suppose you could remove the booster and set it face-down over a trash can overnight and let the fluid drain back out, but it's a pain to remove. If (indeed) you find that the MC has failed, then I would purchase (to the extent possible) a brand new, not rebuilt, MC from Rock Auto (Aisin brand), the dealer, or someplace.
 
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