Front Crank Seal, bolt loosening and tighting nightmare (1 Viewer)

[85badger]

I just completed replacing the front crank seal and oil pump seal, had my son spin the crank so I could put the 14mm socket on the flywheel bolt. All is well, I crank the big bolt, moved on to putting the fan clutch, fan shroud, belts on and battery back in. I reconnect the distributor and without a second thought, I fire it up. I hear a noise and immediately remember that I've left the socket on the flywheel. It starts fine, I look for socket but can't find it. I thought it might have gotten shot out into the grass on either side of the driveway. I back it out and drive 100' and hear a noise again and see the socket laying on the street. Ah, good it came out and at least I know where it is....I think to myself. I then drive it a mile or so. I got on it a little and kind of feel a vibration, I think to myself that is weird. Get back to my driveway and let it run, then notice oil pouring out of the rear main area. So, obviously I've really messed up big time, the question is what did I do or what are the possible issues?
1. Socket bounced around and hit the rear main seal causing the leak?
2. Socket bounced around and hit the rear main seal aluminum housing and cracked it?
3. Socket bounced around and hit the flywheel causing the vibration?
4. Socket bound up on initial start and slightly bend the crank causing the oil leak and vibration?

Needless to say, I'm sick to my stomach over this...so disappointing. I guess I got distracted explaining this and that to my son then to pull a stupid move like this.

I can take the abuse, I just need to know where and what to do at this point...Thoughts?

 

[2fpower]

First off, so very sorry.

You should be able to see quite a bit through the inspection plate. Do you have a inspection camera? If not, buy one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/Endoscope-Cr...=1508159825&sr=1-19&keywords=borescope+camera

My guess is that you put a hole in your lower pan. May have bent your flexplate too. -- this is all too likely.

If flexplate is bent, you are talking about pulling the engine at a minimum, pulling both engine/tranny is easier in my opinion.

I should have an extra lower pan and upper pan, so shoot me a PM if you need them.

 

[Malleus]

x2 on the camera. I love mine.

Agree with @2fpower, look and see, it may not be that bad. Of course, I have been know to be wrong. From time to time.

 

[BILT4ME]

I was thinking about a hole in your Torque Converter because you probably sheared off the bolt that the socket was attached to, then it rattled around in there.

Either way, you're still looking at pulling the engine / transmission.

Sorry for your loss.

 

[2fpower]

I was thinking about a hole in your Torque Converter because you probably sheared off the bolt that the socket was attached to, then it rattled around in there.

Either way, you're still looking at pulling the engine / transmission.

Sorry for your loss.

Not to be picky..... which means that I am being picky.... If I recall, there is no bolt to shear, as you put a socket in a hole on the flex plate and then rotate the engine until it hits the side of the lower pan/bellhousing.

When starting the engine, the socket could of been pulled up into that area and caused all sorts of issues.

I guess we did not ask... tranny fluid or engine oil?

 

[BILT4ME]

Not to be picky..... which means that I am being picky.... If I recall, there is no bolt to shear, as you put a socket in a hole on the flex plate and then rotate the engine until it hits the side of the lower pan/bellhousing.

When starting the engine, the socket could of been pulled up into that area and caused all sorts of issues.

I guess we did not ask... tranny fluid or engine oil?

No, I actually placed the 14MM Impact socket on a bolt head on the flex plate of mine, then slowly turned it until it was wedged into position, then tightened or loosened accordingly. I made sure to remove it immediately following the procedure. I bought the socket specifically for this purpose.

 

[ZackR]

Let us know what you find with the inspection camera. Sorry to hear about the screw up, redeem your error by showing everyone else what the aftermath is.

Most of us have mentally wondered what would happen in this scenario and now we'll get to find out. Again, what a buzzkill.

 

[2fpower]

No, I actually placed the 14MM Impact socket on a bolt head on the flex plate of mine, then slowly turned it until it was wedged into position, then tightened or loosened accordingly. I made sure to remove it immediately following the procedure. I bought the socket specifically for this purpose.

I sit corrected.

 

[85badger]

I had a 14mm socket on the torque converter bolt head, it was against the access hole on the transmission. The oil is engine oil not tranny fluid. Yes, it bounced around for less than a second.

 

[85badger]

Any chance I bent the crank? I personally don’t think this is possible but thought I’d check. I’d like to rule that out.

 

[BILT4ME]

Any chance I bent the crank? I personally don’t think this is possible but thought I’d check. I’d like to rule that out.

Personally, I doubt it, but I would be more inclined to allow someone like @inkpot or @Tools R Us or @orangefj45 to weigh in based on their experiences.

 

[DBTLC]

Did the oil leak flow stop after you shut the engine off, or did it continue once the engine was off. If it stopped, I'd tend towards the rear main. I doubt this is what happened though. If it didn't stop and it kept pouring out, I would be looking for a hole in the oil pan or some where else.
Try putting some oil in it (if it is low), disconnect the coil and crank it with some one underneath. You should be able to tell right away.

 

[Tools R Us]

Any chance I bent the crank? I personally don’t think this is possible but thought I’d check. I’d like to rule that out.

The chance is somewhere around zero. The crank is a pretty solid piece, lots of other stuff would be fully mangled first. Pictures would help?

 

[85badger]

I borrowed these From the internet. Looks like the upper oil pan is very thick. I don’t think this could be the issue. The oil seal aluminum fitting could be as it looks more susceptible to cracking.

 

[85badger]

The socket had metal material impacted on it, very small. If it hit an area like this, both on the seal and the fitting. I could see this would/could cause a leak. This is all speculation until I can get a camera up there.

 

[85badger]

Did the oil leak flow stop after you shut the engine off, or did it continue once the engine was off. If it stopped, I'd tend towards the rear main. I doubt this is what happened though. If it didn't stop and it kept pouring out, I would be looking for a hole in the oil pan or some where else.
Try putting some oil in it (if it is low), disconnect the coil and crank it with some one underneath. You should be able to tell right away.

It stopped after I shut it off. I’ll try to crank it tomorrow with the coil disconnected to make sure.

 

[ajax1]

You can look with mirror and flashlight, I would guess you sheared the bolt head off, possible cracked the flexplate and nailed the rear main and possible broke out the aluminum part around the seal

 

[Tools R Us]

You can look with mirror and flashlight, I would guess you sheared the bolt head off, possible cracked the flexplate and nailed the rear main and possible broke out the aluminum part around the seal

And/or damaged the torque converter.

 

[ZackR]

Probably not a bad idea to start planning to remove the engine+transmission from the vehicle. If its any of the things mentioned thus far you'll need to do so in order to make the repair. Its going to be a chore but think of all the PM you can do while its out (including that oil pump cover seal that started the ordeal).

 

[slow95z]

If you end up needing parts I have an engine that I can pull parts from cheap for you. It is going to the scrap yard in a few days so let me know something before I toss it.