200 series part time kit ? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Feb 7, 2009
Threads
187
Messages
1,519
Location
Pensacola, Fl.
wondering why there is no information on part timing a 200 series. they make kits for the 80 and 100 series so why not the 200?

TIA
 
The easy answer is a lack of demand. I remember reading somewhere that even the demand for the Mark's kit for the 100 was pretty weak. Certainly the demand for 100s and 80s would be greater than 200s given how many of those are used for wheeling vs. 200s.

Also, it might be more difficult to create a part time kit for the 200 given that it isn't lever operated and thus doesn't have a neutral position. I could be totally wrong here, just speculating.
 
An even easier answer is it would be impractical to devise a part-time system for a full-time AWD vehicle. For 4WD vehicles, it's very straightforward, but much more challenging for AWD vehicles.
 
It’s not impossible. But costly, conversion would entail swapping transfer case with tundra/sequoia, front diff and rear diff re-gear. Also wiring actuator for front diff /transfer case and swapping the 4h/4l knob.
 
Very little benefit relative to cost and added complexity. Besides potentially minuscule gains in mpg and wear and tear on front end (pretty negligible when Land Cruisers go many hundreds of thousands of miles), what tangible benefits would you expect from making a 200 rear wheel drive/part time 4x4? One of the biggest advantages of the 200 or any full time 4x4 is traction all the time.
 
I can't see this being terribly difficult... I pioneered the AWD swap in the Tundra... this should be the opposite of that swap. No axle gear changes required. The lack of front harness for the diff disconnect could be overcome by developing manual hubs. Or the 4WD ECU could be swapped, the harness possibly run. Another chap in Canada took the swap a step further and installed a Sequoia multi mod case... which required the ECU swap.
 
This would sell like hotcakes
 
Any idea if the Sequoia case could be swapped in to the 200? ECU compatability/ VSC issues?
 
The Sequoia case is slightly longer, so it requires driveshaft length changes. The 4WD ECU will likely swap/plug in, but again, parts of the harness are missing for the front diff and a dash switch or two. I can't say how the stability control will react... The Tundra had no issues going from 2WD to AWD, however no ECUs were swapped.
 
While it would be an interesting accomplishment, I fail to see the tangible benefit. Gas money saved would never come close to the monies spent for the mod.
 
There are two reasons I can see someone wanting this:

1. If you want to flat tow (4 down) this would disconnect the front drivetrain and I think make that feasible.
2. If you break a CV on the trail you could try to finish the trail in 2WD

It seems like a pretty niche market (though if I ever trade my travel trailer for a driveable RV I'll be the first to claim there's a huge market for this!).
 
I would be interested because in AZ we don't see much snow, unless going to the mountains, so 2wd would save a little on gas.
Also, when towing it would be nice to relieve some of the stress on the front drive shafts.

There was an aussie that did this mod. he said it was a hoot to drive in 2wd only. steering pushed a lot more. but the donuts were awesome!
 
i'd do it for the doughnut factor - the 5.7 has to whip that tail around like a rag doll
 
i'd do it for the doughnut factor - the 5.7 has to whip that tail around like a rag doll

Given the right conditions...

kQ4De2HE8-CxNzmGSaamuHHhogLrD2iClPA31U2DvkW-dkAjtAD8c1rP1TAl1vpr4ZGpI_0kffgS8hRhEVR4RT_NrsF2-S3_B2wwK7E6675Q_b-5FVZxnkgHfKEoFY3vVLvR9gSowT9riEIUp6nznuEjHud9TKI50mnbvnXT1R8Lavjwq3aYlsGs3sLcjZq1KDmzo-T3e19iTynaYvcGo5224KH9enhVkdiaFgt05kchW6LKf1jN0sPZYw36roR9M-eqf4yff7hb-aKglaR8s3R4mf57FhHxz8xW9Nw4ClJb2De-cu1t9qUQ4E4LsDY-Our1PIV9mjJOWI73o2McHVcjVP7T2lzYjZJizNak3_5KrZq4hG9LUN-zvidOJt_SGR2_YldCsBakHJvw_T-Obr-2yiqMq0CPaSkQlr0i7JrywQmpGONZLC-FZ1t0L-y4nQw2jVFjIhygt77kVd5Xu2qkq0ZHiVUuEopx-Eu-hz0x6MOEbQntMcSMkEWS3ik2f4ISLi_4iT1yZcdHiRiPI4_MJhjK3XSBGKb-bSn8ktfGwvw0rD0M1A_9QJcCVkw4-WSUOUo_WSWM4r6UmrtSVxB1vo0AR9VXfCrDAZP5rGM_D-46x1UvTU2VKND03239DiCFPea1a4F9xkiU-g5wQyaZr_p-PjhNoMw=w1262-h946-no
 
1. Wouldn't help unless you disconnect the rear drive shaft too.
2. Locking the center diff would have the same outcome as far as getting off of the trail.

1. Ok true. I suppose it would make it possible to dolly-tow with just the front wheels down though.
2. Is that true? If you unlock the hubs and the front diff, wouldn't the broken axle not move, whereas normally it'll spin and smack all over the place?
 
It'll always spin. You need to remove the CV shaft otherwise it'll flop around while the front diff does it AWD thing and/or wheel spins the shaft by it's turning. If you have a snapped CV, you can remove the CV shaft and CV joins, keep the ends in the diff and spindle to keep the bearings and fluids from douching out, lock the center diff and be on your merry way. This was the plan when Patrick snapped his CV in Moab but we couldn't get the CV joint out of the ends due to them being pressed Tundra axles. The LC CVs are held in by clips so they just pop out.
 
Last edited:
Fluids from Douching out = tech term for the day!!!!
 
It'll always spin. You need to remove the CV shaft otherwise it'll flop around while the front diff does it AWD thing and/or wheel spins the shaft by it's turning. If you have a snapped CV, you can remove the CV shaft and CV joins, keep the ends in the diff and spindle to keep the bearings and fluids from douching out, lock the center diff and be on your merry way. This was the plan when Patrick snapped his CV in Moab but we couldn't get the CV joint out of the ends due to them being pressed Tundra axles. The LC CVs are held in by clips so they just pop out.

Ah ok. I was thinking if you had manual hubs you could unlock them and they'd spin freely so the shaft wouldn't rotate at the wheel, and based on the Marks 4WD doc on the 100-series by pushing the "new" CDL button you'd unlock the front diff and thus the shaft sticking out of the front diff wouldn't spin either.
 
Ah ok. I was thinking if you had manual hubs you could unlock them and they'd spin freely so the shaft wouldn't rotate at the wheel, and based on the Marks 4WD doc on the 100-series by pushing the "new" CDL button you'd unlock the front diff and thus the shaft sticking out of the front diff wouldn't spin either.

With manual hubs and a 2WD/4WD Tundra transfer case, the 200 will work the same way.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom