Worth rebuilding? Rear locker actuator (1 Viewer)

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Mar 17, 2010
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Da UP, eh!
Yet another rear actuator mess...do you guys think it is worth the time to rebuild? There's somewhat moderate to severe pitting on the fork shaft splines and small gear, along with the splines of the armature. I picked off the scale as best I could with some dental picks my Aunt gave me a long time ago. There's also pitting inside where both of these shafts sit and all over the inside of the housing. I couldn't believe how much salt and scale I pulled out of this thing. The mating surfaces would probably have to be RTV'd, I don't think new O rings would seal it up. I dunno, what does MUD think?

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That's about how mine looked when I tore it down. Works just fine now after the rebuild. Seemed like a lot of that crap is just dried grease making everything look terrible. Pitting on parts that do not move or surfaces that don't have to seal is irrelevant.(Just not pretty.) Freeing up the clock spring shaft from the cover can be a bit of a challenge...

Given the high cost of replacement parts I'd try rebuilding it, you really do not have much to lose if it doesn't work out.

Hope this helps.
 
Ick. Ultrasonic tank?
 
I guess I'll try and throw it back together. I did not take apart the clock spring...does the shaft rotate inside of the springs? This rig has seen some serious use in the last 10 years, so it doesn't surprise me that it looks like this. Does the small gear go on the shaft with the 'lip' side facing towards the big gear or away? It wasn't even on when I pulled everything apart. Or I didn't notice it fall off.
 
Yup, that shaft is supposed to be able to rotate. Mine was stuck hard and a real PITA to get working again. Trying to remember which way the collar on the small gear goes but can't really recall. Should be some pics on here somewhere that show it.

Really though, don't it seem like the grease becomes acidic when it breaks down over time? Or there is some other kind of chemical reaction resulting in something that is acidic? My pitting inside the housing was just like yours, with no real signs of water in the housing. Makes me wonder...

:hmm:
 
Mine work fine but I'm afraid to open them up. Should I bother? If it's working leave it alone? Or open it up and service it with new grease, get eyes on it, etc.? Sorry for the hi-jack.
 
Found a pic of the small gear from one of clownmidget's posts on the subject. Lip side goes away from large gear...tomorrow I reassemble after making sure that clock spring/gear shaft rotates. If it doesn't work, there's always the Aisin part from RockAuto for $420. Ouch.

Bicycleagent003, I'm of the opinion if it ain't broke don't fix it. Others like to do preventive maintenance. Up to you.
 
I would definitely give it a try before buying new.

As for PM'n it, maybe. My rear actuator took on water over time due to the location of the actuator vent and my over washing of my 80. Im sure other actuator have fail due to the same reason. At a minimum consider extending the actuator breathers tubes.
 
Have successfully referbed several that looked like that. Get everything cleaned up and moving like it should, properly time it, should work. The motor looks good, if it's bad, that is what totals them.
 
Yeah, the timing thing, never done it before, read several of everyone's knowledgeable threads, and printed out quite a few of them. The motor does look good, I agree, no burn marks anywhere. We'll see!
 
Even if the motor won't work (power and ground to the two thick wires in the plug) it's serviceable. I just fixed one for a customer where the magnets had come unglued from the housing and the armature was full of rust. After a little attention, it works fine.
 
Yeah, the timing thing, never done it before, read several of everyone's knowledgeable threads, and printed out quite a few of them. The motor does look good, I agree, no burn marks anywhere. We'll see!

The timing can easily be done without a meter as I posted a how to in the past.
 
And I do believe I have that one printed out. I'm sure I'll be doing it a couple of times to get it right.
 
@yoopermike If you do not want to mess with all the cleaning, rebuilding and mucking around; lets talk conversions to pneumatic. Message me for details. I'd love to help you out. :steer:
 
Looking more for the internals of the actuator after cleanup/repair.
 

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