Builds A Trakka Troopy Revival (2 Viewers)

[Willis]

Real sweet ! which motor ?

Thanks, it's a 2H

 

[Willis]

Question ya'll. Has anyone ever had problems getting their 2h hot or getting hot air out of the heater?

In the summer, I replaced the stuck open thermostat with an OEM Toyota, and added coolant. Usually in the summer is sits around 130 F. It would get up to 180 on steep climbs, but that's was well within the safe range, and it would plummet back to 130-140 after getting to the top of the hill.

Now however with colder weather, the OEM gauge is showing 1/3 and my aftermarket water gauge will read always under the 100 minimum, except on steep climbs for over 20 minutes it gets up to 140. Still cold and still absolutely no heat coming out of the vents. I've made sure the control wires are correct, the heater core valve is open, the system is free from bubbles.


1. I want my heater to work.
2. I don't want to harm the 2h running too cold.

Here is why, it's already snowing down here:

 

[Mookies]

Make sure its not your blower motor resister itself. You can get a radiator blanket but you really shouldn't need it even in Bend. If your rad cap is not sealing and allowing pressure to build the coolant is moving around too quick for the heater core to warm up I bet. Same goes for the thermostat if it's faulty. Those water temp numbers sound fine to me. I start my 1PZ up with some extra glow and idle up for a few minutes but a larger diesel just won't get too warm when ambient temps are low.

 

[coldtaco]

turbo it, that will keep her warm and toasty

 

[Willis]

I like the Turbo idea, seriously debating it. This engine doesn't smoke or leak so that'd be just the ticket to loosen stuff up. Haha

Make sure its not your blower motor resister itself. You can get a radiator blanket but you really shouldn't need it even in Bend. If your rad cap is not sealing and allowing pressure to build the coolant is moving around too quick for the heater core to warm up I bet. Same goes for the thermostat if it's faulty. Those water temp numbers sound fine to me. I start my 1PZ up with some extra glow and idle up for a few minutes but a larger diesel just won't get too warm when ambient temps are low.

I always click the glow plugs a couple times before starting and let it idle up to 1/3(running temp for me) on the OEM gauge before driving. The engine pulls strong and runs well, so I guess I'm not too worried about it running too cold, but I just assumed an engine should run above 100 F and I can't imagine that the heater is suppose to NEVER blow hot. The blower motor is fine, it runs on all settings. Air is coming out, but it is cold. Time for an Espar Diesel Heater.

 

[coldtaco]

Mine in city driving doesn't blow hot air either in the winter. I haven't done hwy driving in the winter to see how much hotter it would get. But now I have beat the heat problems, will be interesting to see how it does in winter. I use a Espar heater in the winter, try to let it run half hr. before driving.

 

[mailTruck]

Have you checked your hot tubes that run to the heater core or tried flushing it?
I did a coolant flush and ran some stuff to clean out all the cruds and it made my truck run like a sauna

 

[61Mk+]

Hello Willis,

I used to have an HJ61, with the 12HT, and currently drive an HZJ75 Troopie. I hope you enjoy yours, and am quite happy to see another Troopie on the continent.
I found my 61, a Japanese market car, was terrible for heating. I had the cooling system, including the heater core, power flushed every fall; i'd stick a piece of cardboard in front of the rad every winter; i had the heater core and the thermostat replaced. All to no avail. After two and a half years with the Troopie, an Australian market car, i find the same issue with heating: it's terrible! And yes theTroopie's cooling system gets power-flushed every fall also.
I have to say that every winter i see -30C and colder. If i'm in low-range and having a play in the rough, well then no problem as you just don't go fast enough then to get a freezing blast through the rad; at highway speeds, i've nothing else to do but dress for the occasion. I had an in-line coolant heater in the 61, and have a Webasto diesel-fired coolant heater in the Troopie (which is a godsend). I will say that on two or three occasions, without a receptacle to plug into, that old soldier of a 61 started; yes it took a while, as well as a lot longer to get the engine warmed up, but it started. Same with the Troopie's 1HZ.
I can only conclude that in Japan and Australia, they just don't get northern Canadian, and Alaskan, temperatures, and their heaters aren't made for it. I lean strongly to the opinion that a North American market heater core would make a significant difference, and cannot help but wonder if, say, a North American market heater core from an 80 Series would fit and make a difference. Anybody know?
And i am aware that with a, shall we say, bare-box Troopie like mine, a heater's work is quickly dissipated away while trying to warm up a good-sized metal box, with every metal surface acting like an excellent heat sink.

 

[JuanJ]

Hello,

Is it possible that Toyota assumes that most, if not all, of 70 Series Cruisers end up in temperate climate countries, where A/C is important but not heating?

In my experience, A/C blows cold in 70 Series Cruisers. On the other hand, the heater requires a warm engine and the temperature selector full on the Hot position to deliver warm air. On cold days, the engine may take a while to warm and there will not be enough heating until then.






Juan

 

[ALEXY]

my european spec lj is very warm in winter, I open windows sometimes.
but its a known fact that 2lt engine makes too much heat anyway…
maybe the hardtop is a better insulator then troopy metal roof.

 

[Willis]

Thanks for all the help guys. I removed and flushed the entire coolant system and replaced all coolant hoses. In addition, found that my aftermarket coolant gauge that was throwing me off reading at 100F was actually just dangling by the exhaust measuring ambient air temperature. Dooh. After the flush, I am able to get hot air on certain settings but only out of the bottom vents, still cold from the defrost. Must be a vent door problem now. I'll get it.

 

[60toyetero]

Those are sick troopy shots bro! keep them coming!

 

[FJ73Texas]

Hello Willis,
I can only conclude that in Japan and Australia, they just don't get northern Canadian, and Alaskan, temperatures, and their heaters aren't made for it. I lean strongly to the opinion that a North American market heater core would make a significant difference, and cannot help but wonder if, say, a North American market heater core from an 80 Series would fit and make a difference. Anybody know?
And i am aware that with a, shall we say, bare-box Troopie like mine, a heater's work is quickly dissipated away while trying to warm up a good-sized metal box, with every metal surface acting like an excellent heat sink.

It has not really been an issue here in South Texas but my FJ73 doesn't even have a heater at all, just factory A/C only.

 

[DB Troopy]

Hey Willis, where did you get the parts from? In particular the rear fuel gage. In need of one myself. Thanks

 

[mailTruck]

Thanks for all the help guys. I removed and flushed the entire coolant system and replaced all coolant hoses. In addition, found that my aftermarket coolant gauge that was throwing me off reading at 100F was actually just dangling by the exhaust measuring ambient air temperature. Dooh. After the flush, I am able to get hot air on certain settings but only out of the bottom vents, still cold from the defrost. Must be a vent door problem now. I'll get it.

this really sounds like you have baffle issues in the core...

 

[Willis]

You guys aren't going to believe this.

As Lukas and I began to dig into the dash, we removed the glovebox and found a cable just above the latch (hidden behind the hold bar) that guess what...went to the blend door. I couldn't believe it. All that flushing and replacing parts, etc for nothing. Well not really, I'm happy I redid the cooling system for peace of mind, it was very muddy as well. Boy does it work now though, heater is HOT.


Other updates, I installed a foxwing awning. I'm a fan. Of course, I don't have any photos of it open. I installed outserts into the body and mounted self-made brackets to hold it. No roof rack options with the pop-top.

Also, got it legal. Went camping a lot more, drive it every day. Never gets old.

 

[coldtaco]

Hello,

Is it possible that Toyota assumes that most, if not all, of 70 Series Cruisers end up in temperate climate countries, where A/C is important but not heating?

In my experience, A/C blows cold in 70 Series Cruisers. On the other hand, the heater requires a warm engine and the temperature selector full on the Hot position to deliver warm air. On cold days, the engine may take a while to warm and there will not be enough heating until then.






Juan

I changed the heater core from my Ausie speck -75 with the heater core from the Canadian market BJ-70 I had and they both are the same.

 

[SNLC]

Glad you got your heater issue fixed!

Your truck does sound like it runs a bit cold. On my tropical spec 1PZ there is no fan clutch from the factory, it is a direct drive fan. Everything in the cooling system is new and it still runs cool. Without a fan clutch I believe this is normal. You might take a look at your fan clutch, if your truck is Aussie I am sure it has one. Another tidbit of info, some 2H came from the factory with no thermostat if you can believe that. There are several styles of water outlets and one style is for no thermostat.

Cheers

 

[umpqua]

Hi Willis, I'm late to the party but read the thread start to finish. Great looking truck and you're getting good use out of it. Congrats! Enjoy!!

 

[Willis]

As the Trakka interior had long been removed, I commissioned a close friend of mine to make a rear box for me. It's turning out incredible. Almost done!

It has a sink as well, I've somehow managed not to take any photos of.