Thoughts/opinions on my trailer frame design (1 Viewer)

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If the insertion depth of whatever is far enough into the receiver tube you may not need that reinforcing ring on the end. Those rings are usually either a short section of the next larger tube or are formed from strap steel.
 
Either buy a premade tube with that reinforcement; or cut a strip, wrap, & weld it on. It's not on the website now, but my local NT has a 4~5' receiver tube for ~$40.
Towing Hitch Adapters | Northern Tool + Equipment

On my mini-trailer, I used 3" tube for the tongue because that's what the tongue fit onto. It also has plenty of room inside for the e-brake handles (which I haven't added yet, but the axle has the cables). I used a Dodge Caravan rear axle because of its drop design, simple suspension, shocks, brakes, & common rims.



Because of the large tube & light axle, it didn't need triangulation; and because there's no tongue box, it has a ~93° jackknife angle (before the tongue hits the tow vehicle bumper).

Already have the hitch tube so I just need about 1/2" of 2.5"x2.5" internal dimension square tube. I was hoping that was possibly to find somewhere hah.
 
If the insertion depth of whatever is far enough into the receiver tube you may not need that reinforcing ring on the end. Those rings are usually either a short section of the next larger tube or are formed from strap steel.

The max coupler has a depth of around 2-3 inches or so.

That what I was thinking on the tube piece I was just curious if there was somewhere online that sold it in that specific small size designed for that purpose. I don't want to have to buy 20ft of that huge tubing just for 0.5" hah.
 
2.5" inside square tube would be too loose, unless you fully-welded it. Most are just a ~0.5x0.25x10.25" strip wrapped around & tack-welded in a few spots.
 
Depending on wall thickness 3" tube could work, but like you say finding a ~.5" long piece of it won't be easy. A piece of strap tacked and bent, tacked and bent, etc. works well enough. The whole point is to make it hard for the tube mouth to stretch bigger and become really sloppy, or worse, start to split in the corners. If it suited other needs (say reinforcing a flush opening at the rear of a trailer) it could even be a piece of plate with a round cornered square hole cut into it.
 
That's sort of how I did the one on my Bronco. The receiver tube is welded to the back of a 6" hot-rolled C-channel in line with a 2" rounded-square hole. It has held up to enough weight on the hitch hauler to lift a front wheel off the ground (though I didn't get a pic of that).

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So passing through a plate is plenty strong, and much easier than finding or fitting a sliver of tube.
 
2.5" inside square tube would be too loose, unless you fully-welded it. Most are just a ~0.5x0.25x10.25" strip wrapped around & tack-welded in a few spots.

Maybe I have no idea what I'm talking about, but I'm failing to see how a 2.5"x2.5" internal dimension tube piece about 0.5" wide would fit loose on a 2.5"x2.5" outside dimension square tube.
Yes it will be fully welded to the hitch tube as a gusset. I have never seen a hitch tube without one of these, but I don't know where or what to search for to find it. Well that is outside of buying 20 ft of it just for 0.5". Haha
 
Wrapping a piece of ~1/2" wide, ~1/4" thick strap around the receiver tube and welding it on the end is the easiest way to reinforce the opening. A weld bead across the resulting end gap isn't a concern.
 
^^^ they're right; it's only metal; once welded properly, they are once piece...I'm going to pick thru the scrap bin at the steel yard today to get some short stout strap, myself, I'll look to see if there is the tiniest piece of 3x3x.25 for you...
 
^^^ they're right; it's only metal; once welded properly, they are once piece...I'm going to pick thru the scrap bin at the steel yard today to get some short stout strap, myself, I'll look to see if there is the tiniest piece of 3x3x.25 for you...

That'd be great if you have it.
If so let me know and I'll PayPal ya to cover shipping.

I've done a little more research on the suspension. I plan on running the Timbren 2000HD suspension with the 4" lift (to better accommodate running 35s).

I can run the Timbren hubs with brakes, but that requires an adapter to match the LC/Tundra bolt pattern. I'd rather not do that if possible. The guys at etrailer told me that the Timbren spindle was pretty universal and the hubs from dexter or axletech would also bolt up.

Does anyone know of a company that offers 5x150 hub with brakes?!?
 
Yes it will be fully welded to the hitch tube as a gusset. I have never seen a hitch tube without one of these, but I don't know where or what to search for to find it. Well that is outside of buying 20 ft of it just for 0.5". Haha

I don't know what's around you but my local steel shop has a remnant pile that I find a short pieces in when I need them. They also sell me a 1 foot section if that's what I want.

Can also check McMaster Carr if there's not something near you. They sell metal square tube by the foot. They can be pricey but would be less than a full stick.
 
found a bunch of 3x3x3/16, but no 1/4 wall- 2 days in a row. Sorry. Just use strap and weld it; it's just for facing...
 
This has turned into a really great thread. You're getting lots of experienced input. Looking forward to seeing progress, and learning along the way.
 
Got a little further today. I received my other TRD rock warrior wheel, so now I have two for the trailer and 5 for the 100 series. Only plan to run the one spare, then have tire repair kits as well as a hard mounted compressor and CO2.

I finished up my welds on the main frame today. I think I will also weld in two length wise beams in the front section as that's where I will weld in some steel mesh to mount cargo. I also still need to build the tire fenders and sides, but I am waiting til I have the axles and tires on to see how big they need to be.

Finally settled on the Timbren 2000hd with 4" lift wide spindles, electric brake hubs. I'm going to have to run an adapter in order to mount up the rock warrior wheels. The width of the wind spindles from hub face to the frame would be 8.5". The back spacing of the RW wheels is almost exactly 6.5", and running a 315 tire is going to extend about 2 inches behind the edge of the rim. Thankfully, the adapter will give me a little extra space. I've found a 1" thick adapter but I'm looking for a 1.25" hub adapter.

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