Builds The Clustertruck Rides Again - Refurbishing a 1975 Chevota (2 Viewers)

[RWBeringer4x4]

Since the T-case is stalled while I track down the internals, and the engine is stalled because I don't feel like tripping over a new engine yet, I'm plugging away at other small stuff - tonight I pulled out the heater valve to see if it was salvageable.

It's not:

I'll definitely be flushing my heater core before it goes back in...

The heater control cable is also bad, but that has been a known issue and I have a replacement knob and cable ready to go in:

I'm at a bit of a crossroads on the frame. Now would be a GREAT time to hit the front of the frame with a coat of paint since the majority is exposed, and I need to paint the new engine mounts anyway since they are raw metal.

"Someday" the body will come off this truck for a rehab, which would really be the best time to paint it - but that someday is a long way off. Since this was never intended to be a concourse restoration, I can accept an imperfect paint job on the frame if I were to paint it in parts over the next couple years.

HOWEVER - there's still quite a bit of welding to be done up here. New radiator mount needs to go in, and it can't until the engine is back in to line everything up appropriately.

Then there's the carved out section of the front crossmember - it's ugly, but since it's doubled, riveted together metal I'm not sure if there's value to welding in a patch, or if I'm better off just accepting the ugliness, and painting it as is:

Up next, I get to re-make the main brake line down to the front axle (nicked the current one with a grinder) and I'll also need to cut off the clutch hose mounting bracket from the drivers' side, and move it back over to the passenger's side. Then, I'll fab up the new clutch hard line to make its way over to the new passenger side mounting location.

I may also take this opportunity to investigate the rear heater - the coolant lines were disconnected since I purchased the truck. The blower worked, but I suspect the core is leaking. This also seems like a great time to call up McMaster Carr and replace the old foam covers on the hard lines to the rear heaters.

In short - a lot of "while I'm in there" stuff...

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Suspicions confirmed...

I pulled the rear heater, filled up the core, and it positively DROOLS from both tanks. It looks like new cores are now unobtanium, so I might have to look around for a radiator shop and see if this one can be fixed.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

To expand on the post above, tonight I decided to "fab" a leak tester to see just how bad the rear heater core was - using parts from the old heater system and some random stuff I had laying around the garage.

Cut up some heater hose, then plugged them with bolts and hose clamps. Next I took a tire plug reamer and punched a small hole in one tube:

Then, I set the compressor to as low as I could (sub 10psi) and hooked up the blow gun, and shoved it in the reamed out hole in the heater hose. I Submerged the whole apparatus in the wife's mop bucket:

Light trigger action to prevent blowing up the core, and I was able to locate the leaks.

The more serious leak is at the corner of the tank where it meets the core:

There's also a less obvious pinhole split on the tank just above the seam on the other side of the same tank:

The good news is, it doesn't leak from both tanks, or the tubes as far as I can tell (at least not with the bigger leaks present). Other than this one tank, the core seems surprisingly solid, at least in this crude test. The next question becomes - can it be repaired with some backyard soldering?

These cores are apparently worth their weight in gold now, so I'm considering giving it a shot...

 

[waiting for time]

If you want it to stay close over time better go to a shop that still solders these together.
The solder doesn't stick to the copper without a paste or flued to connect them.
If you try it yourself it will only create a bridge over the old solder but not stick to the copper where it leaks.

 

[velillen]

I would paint your frame. Nothing fancy but just something while it is exposed now. I used Rustoleum Farm Implement paint that's available from Tractor Supply and have been pretty happy with it. Mines only a top coat over POR-15 but its held up decently well. Pretty affordable at ~$35 bucks a gallon. You could probably get away with the quart size even. I used like a 1/3-1/2 of a gallon doing two coats on my frame.

As for the heater valve...I might have a spare one. Had one on the original tub and one came with the new tub. The new tub's one is seized right now but pretty sure that's just cause its been sitting for years. Also spent about 30 seconds with it before tossing it in the "spare parts" bin. I can take a look into it a bit tonight and see if I can get it working if you are interested

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

I would paint your frame. Nothing fancy but just something while it is exposed now. I used Rustoleum Farm Implement paint that's available from Tractor Supply and have been pretty happy with it. Mines only a top coat over POR-15 but its held up decently well. Pretty affordable at ~$35 bucks a gallon. You could probably get away with the quart size even. I used like a 1/3-1/2 of a gallon doing two coats on my frame.

As for the heater valve...I might have a spare one. Had one on the original tub and one came with the new tub. The new tub's one is seized right now but pretty sure that's just cause its been sitting for years. Also spent about 30 seconds with it before tossing it in the "spare parts" bin. I can take a look into it a bit tonight and see if I can get it working if you are interested

Yeah I'm leaning toward painting it - I've been really happy with Eastwood's Chasis Black. The issue is really the welding that is yet to be done, and likely won't be until it is too cold to paint, since I need the engine to be in for fitment (and I also need to learn how to weld). By the time that happens, it will be too cold to paint.

I may just paint it, then grind through what is necessary to do the welding and touch it up afterward.

Don't worry about the heater valve - they're still available new at a fairly reasonable price on fleabay.

 

[bikersmurf]

I'd also paint the frame.

I switched to an inline Ford heater valve. Metal valve... about $18 and works somewhat better with the SBC plumbing.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Oddly enough, aside from being completely rusted out, my heater valve still worked. I'm guessing it has likely been "rust sealed" to the hose because it wasn't even leaking. Seems like the heater hoses from my SBC connected up to the valve alright, but I guess time will tell. I'd like to be maintain control of the valve from the cable in the truck if possible.

 

[bikersmurf]

the truck cable still works with the new eBay valve. at the time it was $120 for Toyota or <$20 for a 'Ford' part... seemed like a nobrainer for a modified rig.

 

[velillen]

Yeah I'm leaning toward painting it - I've been really happy with Eastwood's Chasis Black. The issue is really the welding that is yet to be done, and likely won't be until it is too cold to paint, since I need the engine to be in for fitment (and I also need to learn how to weld). By the time that happens, it will be too cold to paint.

I may just paint it, then grind through what is necessary to do the welding and touch it up afterward.

Don't worry about the heater valve - they're still available new at a fairly reasonable price on fleabay.

That's what I ended up doing paint wise. I got mine all painted and figured any welding that still needs to be done I can just grind the paint away and repaint later.

 

[brian]

Cooling system runs 12-15 psi.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Cooling system runs 12-15 psi.

Yeah - this wasn't an effort to pressure test the system, it was an effort to locate the primary leaks. If I can get that patched up we will see if it can take some additional pressure.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

A couple more minor "while I'm in there" projects:

"Pressure tested" the heater core at ~15psi to confirm it wasn't leaking - and didn't find anything apparent:

Then I investigated the leaky soft line in my 60-series master cylinder. This is the second NAPA master cylinder advertised as new that I've installed in this 40, and both leaked at the base of the soft line connecting the front and rear circuits. It's a very slow leak, but enough to eat the paint off the steering shaft and master cylinder. Plus, it's ONLY the brakes - messy paint or not I'd prefer it not leak...

The old line showed now outward signs of damage or degradation:

Nonetheless, I replaced the line with 3/8" EPDM rubber spray hose from Tractor Supply (should resist hydraulic and brake fluid)

This, plus some screw down hose clamps to replace the "pinch" style ones previously, and hopefully my problem will be solved:

Last but not least, I started fabbing up a new front circuit brake line to replace the one I gouged with the grinder while cutting the old engine mounts out. It just needs flares and fittings - it will get installed after I paint the frame.

Likewise, I started work on relocating the clutch back to the passenger side. I cut off the driver's side mount, and fabbed up the hard line to run from the master to the slave on the passenger side:

I'll leave another plug for Nickel Copper Alloy hydraulic lines here - this is the easiest, most forgiving stuff to work with. Infinitely easier than steel and it won't rust!

 

[velillen]

NiCopp is surprisingly easy to work with. With the eastwood flaring tool its been crazy easy to make lines.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

NiCopp is surprisingly easy to work with. With the eastwood flaring tool its been crazy easy to make lines.

I just have one of the little, basic, hand-held flaring tools. Having never flared a line in my life, I successfully built and flared by entire brake system from NiCopp!

 

[velillen]

I just have one of the little, basic, hand-held flaring tools. Having never flared a line in my life, I successfully built and flared by entire brake system from NiCopp!

I have one of those hand held ones too (was my grandpas in fact) it just didn't do double flares. IIts still gotten plenty of use elsewhere in the garage though.

Hopefully my brake lines don't leak...be awhile before I get to testing them still.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Last night I started the arduous task of "de-rusting" and unbending my sort of banged up rear heater. The mounting legs were pretty bent. Along with the sheet metal duct, probably from years of being kicked and having heavy stuff put on it. I know I contributed to its current state when I threw my mountain bike in the back last year...

I hit just about everywhere I could with a Roloc disc, followed by a wire wheel on the dremel. Then I switched to sand paper to try and get inside the duct as best I could.

The results were marginal -

Particularly inside:

After that I set out to unbend the bent mounting leg - this jig, made from c-clamps, scrap plate steel, and my old, PO-fabbed radiator mount, plus a hammer, worked out surprisingly well:

"Almost" good as new, and "almost good" is what I'm aiming for

Then it was a little more bending out the duct holes that had been collapsed and bent with needle nose, c-clamp, etc.

Once again, far from perfect but "good enough."

I may try to do a bit more work straightening out the duct yet.

My bigger concern is how to clean and paint inside it.

I'm debating setting up an electrolysis bucked the try and de-rust this internally. The alternative will be trying to spray some rust encapsulator paint in there before a final coat of rustoleum.

Any thoughts or tricks from the peanut gallery?

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

If it seems like this build jumps around a lot - it's because I've reached an ADD level of irons in the fire - but in the end, it's all moving toward the same end goal - getting a drivetrain back in the truck.

I finally bit the bullet and bought a press:

It's the older style harbor freight 20-ton (welded top beam, not bolted). There have been quite a few negative reviews on this version - and the welds are truly horrific (there's welding wire hanging out of some of them). It was the only one in stock (after being out of stock for weeks) so I took the risk - it's not pretty, but it got the job done.

I started out by pressing the bearing off my front output shaft, then stepped it up to the case:

It separated the gear and bearing in short order. I read through @Coolerman's 3-speed case rebuild. He wasn't kidding when he said that when the gear lets go, the resulting "bang" is enough to make you think you cracked the case... No issues though, after that, it came apart smoothly.

I've also been cleaning up the frame to try and get some paint on it before I run out of warm weather. Progress is slow - no sand blaster means lots and lots of time with a wire cup brush on the grinder and Roloc discs. Neither are particularly good at getting into the nooks and crannies, so I've had to get creative.

If anyone else gets the bright idea to screw a wire brush to a reciprocating saw, learn from my mistake - while hilarious, it's very ineffective.

A drum sanding disk, mounted on a drill, however, is super effective at getting the top of the frame rail and up into some places inacessible by the grinders.

The challenge, of course - is getting gunk, rust, and old paint out of corners. I still haven't found an elegant (or intelligent) way to get in there and clean them out...

All said - after about 3 nights with abrasives - it's coming along:

I've got it about 75% clean back to the torque tube - not sure I'll tackle the rear of the frame with the cab on - we will see where the paint runs out.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

The more I thought about it, the more it made sense to just go all the way back on the frame.

The PO had made a mess of the rear wiring harness with no less than 2 separate trailer light connections... I have a replacement from Coolerman to go in:

Since it had to come out anyway, it only made sense to pull the rear bumper, tail lights, and what was left of the half-installed auxiliary tank transfer system and associated hoses in the frame rails.

With all of this, and the rear tires out of the way, I had (mostly) clear access to the frame. What I could get to got cleaned up.

While I was at it, I tried to do some repair on the ends of the rear cross memver. The corners were bent when I got them.

The passenger side straightened out really well, the driver's side is still a little tweaked but better than it was, and as good as it's going to get with the tools I have on hand...

The parts I can't get to with the body on got sanded by hand (which was an awful experience) then cleaned and coated in rust converter.

Once the converter has time to cure, it will finally be time to paint - it only took about 12 hours, a wire cup brush, a dozen roloc discs and several sheets of sandpaper! That's a whole lot of work for a half-assed paint job. I'm sure it will look good when it's done!

 

[bikersmurf]

Slowly but surely. I'm glad to see you're making progress.